SUB INSTALLS pics

[wakemaker01]

Would love see some pics of how the best ways to install subs in a tige.

[mtnsmith]

Factory location in front of the driver's feet or other places? Also, what boat are you wanting to install a sub in? That will determine what will be useful for you. The bulkhead panel in front of the driver's feet should be perforated to ease install in most models, from what I understand. Mine is there and it sounds pretty good. Of course a good enclosed box setup like a few people have here will sound awesome.

[chpthril]

What boat do you have?

Here is a Wet Sounds WS-10FA I installed in the factory location of a 20V. The wall is perforated which makes for easy cut out and installation. No box behind this sub


Getting ready to drop in a Kicker CompVR-12 in an RZ2. This one got a sealed box attached to the back side of the wall.



Kicker CompVR-10 also in the factory location with no enclosure


Your choice of sub will decide a lot as far as enclosures go, not every sub needs one, but most will certainly benefit from a proper enclosure.

Here is my WS-XXX 12, receiving 1000 W's RMS from a Cadence amp, in a sealed box dropped in the rear storage

[TRD]

What size is your box there CHP? I am wanting to build the box and be ready when I can get the rest of the stuff I need. Is your 10 or 12" sub?

Thanks

[G-MONEY]

What size is your box there CHP? I am wanting to build the box and be ready when I can get the rest of the stuff I need. Is your 10 or 12" sub?

Thanks

It's a 12"

[chpthril]

What size is your box there CHP? I am wanting to build the box and be ready when I can get the rest of the stuff I need. Is your 10 or 12" sub?

Thanks

Neither of the 10" (the Kicker CompVR or the WS-10FA) have boxes. The Kicker CompVR-12 box is about 1.4cu internal. The xxx-12 box is about 1.8cu if I remember, but it was a quick slam-together box.

[Jason B]

Chpthril,
How does the sub in the storage compartment work? Does it provide a good amount of additional bass or does the space mute its effects?

I am racking my brain to figure where I should put another XXX without the MAJOR work of moving my amps and the LED plates and all that crap. That looks like a viable option if it really works well.

[Jason B]

Wakemaker01

It don't get no better brother............

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...et+sounds+boat

[chpthril]

Chpthril,
How does the sub in the storage compartment work? Does it provide a good amount of additional bass or does the space mute its effects?

I am racking my brain to figure where I should put another XXX without the MAJOR work of moving my amps and the LED plates and all that crap. That looks like a viable option if it really works well.

Well, it was more of a temporary thing and not permanent. If you do install a sub/box in a storage compartment, it NEEDS to be vented. It really wont sound good with the door closed. It actually sounded pretty good with the seat cushion behind the drivers seat pulled out. Man does that thing move some air

[TRD]

Isn't 1.0cu calculation - 12x12x12? 1728cu" total?

I was looking to put the sub into the area under my drivers area like some of CHP's pictures. My battery storage is somewhere around 4.0cu if I calculated correctly. Just measure best I could and calculated it out.

My first question is: Do I need a sealed box? On my papers it says low is 1.0cu sealed or 1.4cu vented. I have thought about building a box to fit into the area under drivers area just to see how it sounds before cutting a hole under the drivers area. Would this be a good idea? Do I need a sub just to test the sound to see if it is worth it?

2nd: can I use any size to get to the 1728 total? (ex. 9x13x15) and must this be inside measurements?

thanks
Building the stuff is easy, I just don't know what is important as far as location & shape.

[chpthril]

Isn't 1.0cu calculation - 12x12x12? 1728cu" total?

I was looking to put the sub into the area under my drivers area like some of CHP's pictures. My battery storage is somewhere around 4.0cu if I calculated correctly. Just measure best I could and calculated it out.

My first question is: Do I need a sealed box? On my papers it says low is 1.0cu sealed or 1.4cu vented. I have thought about building a box to fit into the area under drivers area just to see how it sounds before cutting a hole under the drivers area. Would this be a good idea? Do I need a sub just to test the sound to see if it is worth it?

2nd: can I use any size to get to the 1728 total? (ex. 9x13x15) and must this be inside measurements?

thanks
Building the stuff is easy, I just don't know what is important as far as location & shape.

Shape is not as important as the net (internal) volume. Check out the box calculators on the12volt.com http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#rec

Call Wet Sounds and talk with Justin or Gyver and get their opinion on what would be the best box (sealed or vented) for your given area. It would probably sound a little better with a vented, but sometimes the vented needs to be a little bigger then sealed, which is not always feasible on a boat without giving up valuable storage space. If it were me, I would try to get closer to the MAX recommended box size, rather then the MIN recommended size, but the area you want to put it will kinda dictate the size and shape.

If I under stand you one question correctly, you will need the sub in a box to see how it sounds, you cant really lay the sub on the floor and play it. It will sound about the same no matter where you put it in the boat. What will change the sound is the box size and design, and is the sub/box buried in an enclosed storage area or is the cone open to the cabin of the boat. The drivers are will sound great with the correct enclosure, whether you drop in a box in the drivers foot well, or mount the sub on the bulkhead and attach a box to the back side of the wall.

Did I help

[TRD]

Yes...I just am a little worried about cutting the hole in the bulkhead right now. Do I need the amp to test it? can I use the amp that I have for the tower speakers just to test? or will that mess up the tower speakers? or change the sound to much to tell anything?

hey that link is good... at least now I know my dimensions are not close enough yet.

[surfsup]

Yes...I just am a little worried about cutting the hole in the bulkhead right now. Do I need the amp to test it? can I use the amp that I have for the tower speakers just to test? or will that mess up the tower speakers? or change the sound to much to tell anything?

TRD,

it's chp, what amp do you have running your tower speakers, i dont remember?

You would have to reset the whole amp to just run the sub for a test.

Cutting a hole in the driver's bulk head wall will not hurt anything structurally, but will you be able to get a box back there?

[TRD]

TRD,

it's chp, what amp do you have running your tower speakers, i dont remember?

You would have to reset the whole amp to just run the sub for a test.

Cutting a hole in the driver's bulk head wall will not hurt anything structurally, but will you be able to get a box back there?

I have an Alpine something? (not mono) I think it is 70w per speaker or something like that. Would have to look it up.
I am able to get a 9x13.5x16 to 18" in there w/out doing it inside the storage area. I don't have much more room then that anyway.
@ 9x13.5x16 = 0.75521, so I need it to be bigger anyway so I will need to keep looking. I wish I could just pop it into the bulkhead w/out a box but reading these threads it shouldn't sound correctly.

[surfsup]

I have an Alpine something? (not mono) I think it is 70w per speaker or something like that. Would have to look it up.
I am able to get a 9x13.5x16 to 18" in there w/out doing it inside the storage area. I don't have much more room then that anyway.
@ 9x13.5x16 = 0.75521, so I need it to be bigger anyway so I will need to keep looking. I wish I could just pop it into the bulkhead w/out a box but reading these threads it shouldn't sound correctly.

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