Need advice. Digital SLR Camera

[jwanck11]

Technically that is not exactly true... check out the new cannon line. Their new model also takes high def video and is a bit better than the D90. The D90 is an awesome body though and it would prolly be the DX camera that I would buy with an 18-200 VR. **Remember lenses are more likely to appreciate or remain neutral while the body will quickly depreciate.

Personally, I would wait for an FX to offer video. Perhaps a new D700 in the near term?

That pict of the tractor retails for $375.00 at 16X20. This is tigeowners.com. I dont cross business with pleasure.

[kenr08]

Stick with the name brand lenses. Best to get a lens from the same manufacturer as compatibility will not be an issue. Get a moderate wide/telephoto zoom lens for all around stuff. Something that covers the 25mm to 80mm equivalent range. It will be different for digital as I use a 12-60 zoom that is a 24 to 120 equivalent based on my sensor size. It is my workhorse lens and serves 90% of my uses. Most cameras have something within that range.

A long telephoto is really only good for sports, high ISO, low noise cameras. Unless you do a lot of sports the long zoom will be seldom used. I do weddings, portraits, and some sports. I only use the zoom during football and soccer and in some cases the zoom was too long of a lens. All other applications I use the 12-60.

Get the best glass you can afford. The more expensive the lens generally the better the glass. Skimp on the glass and you will quickly regret the decision and will wind up paying more when eventually get the more expensive glass.

When you make your decision visit B&H Photo Video (www.bhphotovideo.com) or Adorama for good prices. Both outfits are reputable and highly regarded among photographers. If a local supplier can come within 5% of B&H then go local for the support and comfort. Just be aware of the web suppliers. And B&H tends to have just about everything you can imagine.

Again I personally don't think you need anything beyond 10 megapixels. You can crop and get still amazing detail.

Also get a couple of additional memory cards. I tend to stick with smaller cards (<= 2 gig) as I don't want all my eggs in one basket. If I photograph a wedding the loss of a single card is not a disaster, just a major problem. Get high speed cards from a reputable source. Kingston is excellent and warrants the cards forever and pays shipping both ways. I have had two cards fail (extensively used) that were replaced with newer models no questions asked. When I get a single failure I do not attempt to ever use the card again even if the failure can be repaired by formatting. Lexar and Sandisk also make some excellent cards. Just get the premium (and higher priced) cards.

Get the dedicated flash for the camera, a flash bracket, and the off camera cord. This will reduce red eye and help with shadow reduction for portrait orientation photographs. The flash will cost, the bracket and cord are not that expensive and are well worth it.

Always format the card in the camera before using. Do not use a computer to format the card. Minimize the deleting you do in-camera. Download the pictures to your computer and then toss them. Deleting seems to cause more corrupting than anything else. Also, never let your card fill up completely. Leave room for a half dozen or so pictures. The space left is only a guess and that last image may take more room than is available and in some cases that corrupts the card.

And most importantly, enjoy whatever you purchase. Backup to DVD in case (or when)your hard drive crashes.

Wow, great advise. Thanks so much for all the good information. Was hoping to make it to the camera store this weekend, but to much to do.

I will visit some of the sites you guys mentioned and see what I can learn.

Any advice as to which cameras may be "easier" to use? I want my wife not to be afraid to use it because it is to complicated.

[jwanck11]

Most if not all will be point and shoot capable with an "auto" mode.

[NICKYPOO]

I shoot with a Nikon D40X. It's been a good little camera so far. The new D90 would be what I would buy today. Nice little digital SLR that shoots HD video.

Check out any of my threads I've started in Off Topic. Search for NCAR or Hot August Nights.

[evil0ne]

Technically that is not exactly true... check out the new cannon line. Their new model also takes high def video and is a bit better than the D90.

Yeah, this vincent laforet guy is pretty crazy:

http://blog.vincentlaforet.com/2008/...try/#more-1085
http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/control...articleID=2326

[NICKYPOO]

It's funny, Cannon vs. Nikon is just like Chevy vs. Ford. I've shot with both. The Cannons are faster and take great pictures but, I just like the way the Nikon fits in my hands and the way the controls are situated. It's much like buying a new board. Just find the one that feels best to you and you can't really go wrong.

[TeamAllen]

X2 . Nicky said it well. The only other thing I would add is, if you are deciding on a first SLR it makes it a little more important. The lenses are different. They won't mount on different manufacturer's camera bodies. I have an older Nikon FE2. I can still use the lenses on my new Nikon. So the choice of manufacturer could stay with you longer than you think.

[raythompson]

I have an older Nikon FE2. I can still use the lenses on my new Nikon. So the choice of manufacturer could stay with you longer than you think.

In my opinion that is entirely the wrong reason to choose a camera system in the digital era. Let me explain.

Lenses for film cameras had the light exiting the lens in a diverging pattern. This was not a problem for film as film was flat and really did not care at what angle the light struck the film. On the edge of the film the angle could be as high as 15 degrees.

With digital sensors each pixel has a lens and a filter. Each pixel can only respond to light, not a color. Therefore each pixel requires a seperate sensor for red, green, and blue. It is actually more complicated as there are other factors and there may be more of one color than another. Anyway, these little lens work best when the light strikes them in a parallel fashion. Lenses that are made for digital cameras have the light exiting the lens parallel to match what the sensor is best equipped.

You also have the issue of some lenses not working well with digital because the lens is not matched to the sensor size. You may get vignetting or missed areas. Additionally many film lenses did not have anti-reflective coating on the rear element as it was not needed. With digital there is some reflection from the sensor and without an anti-reflective coating it may cause problems with contrast.

Lenses for digital cameras are also intelligent. They communicate the aperture and focal length to the camera. The camera in turn can also relay focus information to the lens. The autofocus is standard with digital lenses, not so with film lenses.

And finally the lens technology has gotten much better over the years with computer designs, more precision in manufacturing, better coatings, and better glass (or plastic) used in the optics.

My advice is to buy the camera based on the camera and how the camera feels to you. Then get the lenses to match the camera. Don't rely on your old lenses as a reason to stay with a particular brand.

I used Olympus OM series for years. I had four bodies, multiple lenses, a couple of flashes, some motor winders, flash brackets, and all manner of accessories. When I bought my digital I went with Olympus because I liked Olympus. Even though I had an adapter to allow me to use my old lenses on my new equipment I found the results to be inferior to the digital lenses. I donated all my Olympus film equipment to a local high school that was still teaching film.

[raythompson]

It's funny, Cannon vs. Nikon is just like Chevy vs. Ford. I've shot with both. The Cannons are faster and take great pictures but, I just like the way the Nikon fits in my hands and the way the controls are situated. It's much like buying a new board. Just find the one that feels best to you and you can't really go wrong.

It is most important to find a camera that feels good to you. The difference between the brands is trivial until you get into specialized situations. Sports tend to use Canon for the lenses and the frame rate. Nikon has a better flash system if you use multiple flashes. Olympus tends to have better colors and glass. Fuji tends to have richer and more color range. The list goes on.

However, these differences are not something the average user will ever notice, need, or encounter. Most people don't need 8fps, most do not need multiple flashes, pictures printed at Walmart won't benefit from slightly better colors, etc.

All the current cameras will get the job done and get it done very nicely.

I also carry a small P&S camera with me most of the time. It is small, takes excellent pictures, and the camera that is with me is the one I use. The pictures are certainly not as good as my SLR gear, but they are good enough for the intended use.

[TeamAllen]

Good advice Ray!

[jwanck11]

Boy have we taken you all over the place (something we do well on tigeowners.)

Some is great advice and some is not. Here are some of the select things that I believe will benefit you greatly in your search for the right camera based on your listed uses:

Body:
1) Look for as fast a fps as you can get. You will be wanting to experiment with (and will be delighted with) the results of burst shooting. Capturing that perfect pict of your kids in action is possible with taking lots of shots while they are in action.
2) Decide how much you want to edit your photos using your computer. If you are not inclined to sitting in front of a computer and augmenting your art, get one that has at least basic in camera editing (red-eye, crop, filter, etc.)
3) Get one that has an onboard flash
4) Get one that has numerous point and shoot settings (auto, portrait, landscape, night, sports, etc.) You will want to use these for their function and not want to set up a camera manually.
5) Decide how important a live viewer on the back of the camera is.
6) Decide whether you want to be able to shoot video.
7) Anything over 6.1MP will deliver a great picture blown up to 11". If you want bigger, go to 10 or 12MP.
8) Get one that feels good in your hands. Make sure your wife tries it too!
9) Get one that feels sturdy to you... accidents will happen
10) Get one that you think looks cool.

Lens:
1) Get a reasonably fast lens (nothing slower/higher number) than a f/3.5 ie. f/4 and above
2) Get one that has a wide zoom range 18, 20 - 150, 200. You will want as much zoom as you can get. It is essential to get this part of the package right!
2) Get the best lens that you can afford!
3) Get one that has a vibration reduction feature built into the lens
4) Get a FX (standard lens) and not a DX if you can.
5) Get the right size Skylight or UV filter immediately. Screw it on and leave it. Look at the Hoya Pro1 Digital filters - they are excellent. A Polarizing filter is also an excellent investment right away for outside bright light sports shooting. It can be screwed right onto your "protective" filter.
6) As you expand, contrary to what is stated above, key on that some of the best glass is older glass. Many work perfectly with most newer cameras. There are charts that will tell you what features will and will not work with your DSLR... something to keep in mind. This is the best way of expanding your options for reasonable sums.

Lighting:
1) An on camera flash is what you will use most.
2) When you want, add on an external flash. Don't go nuts - there is no reason. In the Nikon line-up for instance, an sb-600 is preferrable to an sb-900 for amateur usage.
3) How many "home users" have you seen with a bracket? I haven't seen any - not one. Yes semi and pros use them for they have a purpose and are most often working with multiple flashes or a flash system. Save all your coin for that new lens you will want (that is what a DSLR is all about!)

Memory:
1) Buy a fast card. Read up on this. Ultra or Extreme 3 is a baseline.
2) Buy a name brand card - never skimp here. I use SanDisk, Lexar and Kingston are good brands as well.
3) Buy a bigger card (4 or 8GB). It is easier to manage fewer cards. Contrary to above the likelihood of wearing out a card as an amatuer is slim, ... very slim. Pros are constantly using and wiping - that is where the failure comes in. I always take one card on vacation and to my kids games, but I use multiple smaller cards for pro situations.
4) There is no need for a card reader, the camera will transfer just fine.
5) Wait for the rebates!!

Storage:
1) Buy a good backpack. One that is comfortable and that will fit your gear.

Battery:
1) Get an extra one and get the name brand - you will not need the grip.

General:
1) Shop, Shop, Shop around for the best prices from authorized retailers. This is essential!!! Some of the sites listed are good, but over-priced. Do an internets search - I use NexTag quite a lot.
2) Save your receipts and send in registrations - they usually have a time-limit.

Hopefully that is a helpful summation. Good Luck!

[raythompson]

Lens Aperture Advice is Backwards

Some is great advice and some is not.

How true. Without being a snotty nosed bratt I would like to point out one very glaring discrepency.

1) Get a reasonably fast lens (nothing lower than a f/3.5 ie. 4 and above)

That is completely backwards. The faster lens has the lower number, a wider lens opening. You want a lens with 3.5 or lower number. 3.5 is faster than 4.0, 2.8 is faster than 3.5, etc. The fastest you can generally get in a lens is 1.2 if you want to spend some big bucks. Although Leica has a lens that is a 1.0 but that is really rare.

For zooms a fixed aperture is better. When you see a zoom with a 2.8mm - 4.0mm that indicates the lens opening changes over the zoom range with the smaller opening (4.0) being at the long end of the zoom. If you get a fixed aperture zoom it will be more expensive, and heavier, but will always use the same aperture.

[jwanck11]

How true. Without being a snotty nosed bratt I would like to point out one very glaring discrepency.That is completely backwards. The faster lens has the lower number, a wider lens opening. You want a lens with 3.5 or lower number. 3.5 is faster than 4.0, 2.8 is faster than 3.5, etc. The fastest you can generally get in a lens is 1.2 if you want to spend some big bucks. Although Leica has a lens that is a 1.0 but that is really rare.

For zooms a fixed aperture is better. When you see a zoom with a 2.8mm - 4.0mm that indicates the lens opening changes over the zoom range with the smaller opening (4.0) being at the long end of the zoom. If you get a fixed aperture zoom it will be more expensive, and heavier, but will always use the same aperture.

We both do a bit of work in this field so I hope we might work together ray for the sake of this person? Some of your avice was geared more toward a pro set up. Decent in most cases, but in a number of areas completely backwards for an amateur that wants to do an upgrade from a compact.

I will leave the "bratt comment" alone. You reiterated what I said. I certainly hope he has read other sites for perspective. If so, he would understand that "lower" (slower) would mean higher numbers. Sorry if this was confusing the way it was stated. I edited the post above. I hope this is clearer!

I would not recommend getting a fixed focal length. For your needs, this is neither necessary nor good advice. I am trying to help your spend money wisely.

Like I said, I hope that what I wrote is helpful.

[raythompson]

We both do a bit of work in this field so I hope we might work together ray for the sake of this person? Some of your avice was geared more toward a pro set up. Decent in most cases, but in a number of areas completely backwards for an amateur that wants to do an upgrade from a compact.

I will leave the "bratt comment" alone. You reiterated what I said. I certainly hope he has read other sites for perspective. If so, he would understand that "lower" (slower) would mean higher numbers. Sorry if this was confusing the way it was stated. I edited the post above. I hope this is clearer!

I would not recommend getting a fixed focal length. For your needs, this is neither necessary nor good advice. I am trying to help your spend money wisely.

Like I said, I hope that what I wrote is helpful.

Your recommendation on the lens read funny and it appeared that you were advocating a larger number is a faster lens. Thanks for correcting.

I also did NOT recommend a fixed focal length, ie a prime lens. I commented on a fixed aperture lens which are more expensive than a variable aperture lens. There was nothing about fixed focal length.

My advice was not geared toward any professional. A bracket for a flash is always a good idea and if more people used them red-eye would not be so common along with those annoying shadows when photographing in portrait mode. But then maybe I am just a little too picky.

I still strongly consider on-camera flash to be a bad idea except in emergencies when your real flash is not available. The power is weak, the light is harsh, and the red-eye is strong. I always advocate an external flash. Relative to the price of the camera, lenses, and flash, a bracket and off-camera cable is cheap.

I am also not a fan of long zooms. They are heavy, difficult to hold, slow, and are only used for special circumstances. Taking family pictures and what not are not going to benefit from the long zoom. My favorite lens is a moderate wide angle to moderate zoom. Covers 90% or more of what I need.

I also do not like people having to change lenses on a DSLR. That is where dust gets introduced and ultimately on the sensor and that can be expensive to clean. In my opinion a single lens that provides reasonable coverage is a better option so that the lens does not have to be changed. You could make the argument of "then why have a DSLR" and I certainly could make no counterpoint.

You did post a lot off good information, some of which I disagree, but that does not make it wrong. Different perspective.

[LovinPowell]

You two guys are obviously the experts in photography, thanks to both of you for spending the time to express your opinions. Some of the terminology is way over my head, but I gather bits and pieces and appreciate your input. Regarding your differing opinions, to each his own and it would be up to those of us who use it to decide which preferences we like.

Thanks again. By the way do you have websites of your photography. Ray I think I've been to your wedding site before.