I wonder if the shortened dipstick didn't cause some of this because you would overfill the oil. Either way, it's
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My reccomendation is first 25 hr breakin and then every 50hrs or 6 months which ever comes first, and dependent upon usage the transmission serviced every 100 hrs especially if loading with extreme ballast. Also monitor the temp guage to make sure the engine isnt running to cold, to cold will cause oil consumption, due to improper cly expansion.
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OK, here is my take, I have had spectro analisys done on my engine oil at 20 hrs. 30 hrs and after the 30hrs one I will not go past 30 hrs to see what it is like at 50 hrs. 30 hrs of normal operation average RPM 3500 the oil lubrications properties along with the heat bearing and distribution properties which will prevent burn off were worn out. I have never burned even .5 quarts on my PCM of course I never go over 30 hours for an oil change either. I also use Mobil one synthetic oil and when I store it for the winter I put in a regular Castrol 10W40 motor oil with an oil stabilizer to keep lubrication on the moving parts. Then I use that oil for one trip to the lake at the start of the season and remove it for the good stuff. I have seen spectro analisys on twenty five diffrent brands of oil. Mobil 1 sythetic stood up the best even better than all those off brand special racing oils. Kendall Oil was second place. Castrol 3rd, Penzoil how I don't know 4th, and Valvoline 5th. This is my worth. Take it how you wish.
Also for transmissions Dextron 3 as your base oil with the LUBGARD additive to modify the oil for what ever manufacture transmission you own tested out better than the Manufactures $16.00 qt. special trans fluid did. http://www.lubegard.com/www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.
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If the boat is stored, isn't the oil sitting in the oil pan? If the motor is not operated, what is the value of fresh oil sitting in the pan?
I like the strategy of running it on the initial season run with the stored oil to collect any foreign matter that may have accumulated durng the down time?
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gman: I use 15W50 Mobil1 Synthetic. I buy it in bulk it at Wal-Mart they don't always have it so if they do have it on the shelf get it so you have it when you need it.
Teachercop: When oil has been run in an engine it starts to collect corrosive materials and the PH balance of the oil starts to get damaged. It is best to put in good clean oil with new known good PH Balance to protect your engine parts. I don't use Synthetic for storage because it tends to slip of the engine parts because the stuff is so slick. This is also why I use a stabilizer such as Lucas Oil Stabilizer for the winter storage.www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.
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Wal-mart is the best place to get Mobil 1, they have that 5 quart jug that they run on sale for $19.99 quite often. While I don't use Mobil 1 in the boat, I do use it in my Corvette and when I pulled that engine apart at 98,000 miles it was completely spotless inside! The engine seriously looked brand new, every single rotating part was clean and absolutely no sludge to be found anywhere.
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I could not agree more,
I would be really interested if anyone has any oil analysis reports for a 100 hr oil change what the numbers were. I said earlier in the thread but based on the results of my oil analysis with ~20 hrs usage the 100 hrs time frame is WAY too long between changes. There is a lot of good info around on the web (and bad) about oils. What exact oil is "best" typically turns into a Ford vs. Chevy deal but I think everyone can agree that a marine application is really hard on oils and oil is cheap, so always best to change it often IMHO. If you think you are throwing money aways changing it too much then just get it looked at and that ends the discussion, maybe you are, maybe you are not but then you know for your boat and driving conditions if you are changing too often or not often enough.
Originally posted by SPBFAN View PostOK, here is my take, I have had spectro analisys done on my engine oil at 20 hrs. 30 hrs and after the 30hrs one I will not go past 30 hrs to see what it is like at 50 hrs. 30 hrs of normal operation average RPM 3500 the oil lubrications properties along with the heat bearing and distribution properties which will prevent burn off were worn out. I have never burned even .5 quarts on my PCM of course I never go over 30 hours for an oil change either. I also use Mobil one synthetic oil and when I store it for the winter I put in a regular Castrol 10W40 motor oil with an oil stabilizer to keep lubrication on the moving parts. Then I use that oil for one trip to the lake at the start of the season and remove it for the good stuff. I have seen spectro analisys on twenty five diffrent brands of oil. Mobil 1 sythetic stood up the best even better than all those off brand special racing oils. Kendall Oil was second place. Castrol 3rd, Penzoil how I don't know 4th, and Valvoline 5th. This is my worth. Take it how you wish.
Also for transmissions Dextron 3 as your base oil with the LUBGARD additive to modify the oil for what ever manufacture transmission you own tested out better than the Manufactures $16.00 qt. special trans fluid did. http://www.lubegard.com/
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sbfan,
I'm running 15-40 in the boat (diesel) oil but it is also for gasoline engines with the sl, sm ratings. Do you have any info on this type oil and what is your take on it? Mobil 1 also makes synthetic for diesel and its good for gasoline engines also. any info on this oil?Pennzoil makes a 15-40 marine oil that is recommended by PCM and Indmar. Any info on this type oil?
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