Another question i have is how high does the bunks on my boat lift have to be to clear the prop/rudder, i have always had i/os and am retro fitting the lift to work? A guy in town told me 12" inches is sufficient but i am not sure thats enough, by the way its a 20v.
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Not sure about bunk height, but width is also important. It's very easy to break a paddle wheel for the speedo if not set right.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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As stated you need to measure the width of the bunks and adjust appropriately to clear the paddlewheel. As far as height, my lift has 2x12's combined with a V shaped cradle. No issues with clearance.
Last thing I had to deal with when I switched from my I/O was the alignment of the front and rear cradles. My Tige is more "level" on the cradles, probably due to the weight. I had to make the bunks more even front to back from my I/O. Basically raised the rear cradle to level out overall.
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look at your trailer, if possible set up the lift like that. I would also have someone in the water with a dive mask to watch the lift cradle the boat to make sure your underwater gear is not comprimised. lastly, make sure you don't allow the boat to float too far forward on the lift, can you say prop ding? previous experience!
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Originally posted by brody66 View PostAnother question i have is how high does the bunks on my boat lift have to be to clear the prop/rudder, i have always had i/os and am retro fitting the lift to work? A guy in town told me 12" inches is sufficient but i am not sure thats enough, by the way its a 20v.
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we measured the bunks on the trailer and matched them on the lift. i think it was 36 inches (inside to inside) and it clears the paddle wheel just fine, any wider and the boat will sit on the cross bar and not the bunks. as far as the height goes we have whatever comes standard with the lift, its a Shorestation 45120 if that helps. we were very careful the first time we lifted the boat to make sure the shaft and prop we not hitting anywhere but there was no way any of us were getting in the water.... way too cold for that. what we did was situate the boat where we knew the running gear would be safe from hitting the lift, lifted it up just enough to get an idea of how far forward we can put. put it back down, got a reference point (gas cap) on the boat to the lift wheel and now we align that spot to the wheel and its perfect every time. Here is a pick of the boat in lift. If you want Ill get another pic. of the running gear this weekend and post it up.Attached Files
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Brody, I think the height of your bunks is going to vary on a boat by boat and lift by lift basis and water depth of the lift. For my 20i, I think I'm sitting at like 7 inches. My boat is an older "Rohn" boatlift. It has a 2X8 at the front and back. Our old IO just sat on the 2X8 at the back, but that is not possible with an inboard due to the prop shaft. We made a cradle out of wood that we bolted to the existing structure. I can take a pic this weekend if you'd like. By cradle, I just mean treated 2X4's with spacers to get them to the proper height. I second the guy in the water with a mask. I did that with mine, and it was very helpful. I didn't want a lot of extra clearance for two reasons. 1. I want to be able to get the boat under the canopy with the tower up. 2. I don't want to have problems if the lake gets low.
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