Did I sieze the engine?

[dogbert]

The shim issue is a real nightmare. I've had 2 friends, both with 21vs, who have had issues with their belts. Be sure to get the right size belt as well and have your flywheel bearings replaced while you're at it. My boat started sounding like it had a large sewing machine in it just before I replaced the alternator.

[FacePlant]

Hope its not a spun bearing. Fingers crossed!!

[noworries]

If the oil level is very high, consider draining it down before doing anything else and see if you got water in the oil pan. Then you can see about cranking the engine.

If water intruded after you shut it off either as suggested by sucking back from the exhaust manifold, or from a heat-related parts failure, you want to get the water out of the pan before you pump it through the engine, even by cranking it. The oil drain hose will have oil in it even if the pan's loaded with water, so let it drain a while, at least till the level gets back to normal. If there is water in the pan, it'll be at the bottom under the oil itself and will come out right away after the little bit of oil in the drain hose flows out.

[TriValleyMarine]

Engine

Livermore is 925 area code, so 925-371-5456. Like one of the guys explained earlier, if you have water in a cylinder, the engine won't turn over because the engine can't compress water. The thunk sound you describe could just be the starter trying to crank the engine with water in a cylinder. It doesn't necessarily mean your engine seized, these engines can take some short term over heating. What you're saying sounds promising, so keep your fingers crossed! Remove all the spark plugs, turn the key, see if you get any water out of any of the cylinders and if it cranks easily.

[Moki]

It sure sounds like you had some issues with your belt before all this started. Somebody pointed out your alternator, which doesn't sound like it's charging. You should also check the bearings on your flywheels because they're probably shot.

BTW, I know you surf a lot. Your boat's pretty similar to mine and I have real issues with water coming into the blower vent when we stop to pick up a rider. With the boat listing away from the bilge pump, it really takes a lot to get it to pump out any water and by that time there's a fair amount sloshing around in the bilge. This all runs to the back of the bilge when you're surfing and guess what the two lowest components are attached to your motor, that's right, it's the alternator and the impeller. I haven't had issues with my impeller housing, but I think Moki has and he added a spacer or something to the fly wheel to get it to stop causing issues.

I finally moved my bilge pump closer to the transom and that's helped eliminate the exess water in my bilge while I'm driving.

We have the same engine and I went through a lot of impellers until I changed the housing. I also will notice that my impeller tines will sometimes be backwards after shutting the engine off and the impeller will whine until rotates back into position. I added a spacer on my new alternator to get it to align up. I am no mechanic but it seems unlikely that you have caused a lot of damage if it was still idling when you turned it off.

Have you priced out a new block in case of the worse?

[Surfdad]

It sounds like it's got a bent rod. All the plugs out and no water, but the starter won't turn it over. Turning it by hand produces a nasty noise.

It's the 340 hp and I've found a drop in replacement for 13,000! A sort of long block substitute is around 8,500.

PLUS it'll be 4 weeks to get either option.

[ragboy]

man, that sucks this time of the season.

[eks]

Sorry to hear that

If you come to Utah we give you a pull!

[TriValleyMarine]

Engine

Hey Surfdad. I've got a great mechanic that does what we call "heavy service". I'm not convinced you need a new short or long block. I'd like to help you out, so give me a call if you like. I'd like to have him see your boat and really find out what's going on. I'm sure we can get it fixed the right way and as inexpensively as possible for you.

Dave
925-371-5456

[Surfdad]

Dave you rock. I'll give you a call tomorrow see if you can save me some bling.

Thanks a ton 'bro.

[Tanner]

Good luck surfdad.

Instead of looking at whole turnkey crate motors and the likes.... try looking for just blocks.

I know you can find 5.7 350 blocks for cheap, and then pick up a set of rods (might as well go forged while your at it... they're readily available)... transfter everything else over and BAM... back in business. I know trivalley should be able to help you with this. If things shine on you correctly I knowwww you can be back on the water by memorial!

[noworries]

It sounds like it's got a bent rod. All the plugs out and no water, but the starter won't turn it over. Turning it by hand produces a nasty noise.

It's the 340 hp and I've found a drop in replacement for 13,000! A sort of long block substitute is around 8,500.

PLUS it'll be 4 weeks to get either option.

For 13K you can probably be close to 500HP reliably, but you might need a new prop -- and, transmission and v-drive to handle it! Definitely don't spend that kind of money without considering every other option and having torn down your's. A rebuild may be your best option

Here's another option. Maybe they have a wreck you can pick over.
Rancho Marine Recycling
3761 Unit C Recycle Rd.
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
Phone: (916) 638-8908
Fax: (916) 638-8099
Toll Free Order Line:
(866) 375-6000
http://www.boatrecycling.com/

[SPBFAN]

I am sure he can. You can rebuild that engine for a whole lot less than replacing it. Plus during the rebuild you can do some mods to it that will strengthen the engine and probably give you a little more go to it. Not to mention run way smoother.

[da.bell]

Surfdad does run a lot of ballast weight.. Might be a great idea for him.

[Timmy!]

A rebuild will cost you a LOT less than a replacement and there's really no need for a replacement unless you somehow damaged the block. Are you sure the starter is good?