Teak platform storage

[Jason B]

Do you guys leave the teak platform on over winter storage or remove it? I read a couple things in the last few minutes that said they removed it for winter? I decided to leave it on because I thought maybe it could warp differentely than the boat and make it impossible to get back on in the summertime. Did I make a mistake?

[dogbert]

I don't take mine off...it's a pain with the FAE.

[Fit to be Tige]

I left mine on for the same reason - didn't want any warping and difficulting getting it back on. It is covered, but I expect I will give it a touch up this spring.

[dogbert]

i don't think it really matters, tho.

[TRD]

I take mine off in the winter time. I haven't had any problems getting it back on. I have been looking at the fresh air exhaust, will that affect this. I like taking it off in the winter because I can pull the boat in the cover space deeper and get the tounge out of the weather too.

PS- I am redoing my platform right now. This is my first time doing this, does anyone have any do's and don'ts. I found one write up about it and that is it. Do I need to get the teak cleaners and all that or can I use soap and clorox? Not trying to get off this topic. I would like to know more about the platform warping. I haven't seen this yet with mine and hoping I don't.

[dogbert]

I'd get the 3 step cleaner (several companies make them). Plan on getting a scrub brush for the first step. It works great.

[Jason B]

Go buy boiled linseed oil to finish it...that's all "Teak Oil" is. You can buy a gallon at Menard's for the price of a quart at the marina. I did mine twice held up well an dlooks great.

[tsnowflake72]

I leave mine on also, but it is covered and inside.

[Razzman]

Go buy boiled linseed oil to finish it...that's all "Teak Oil" is. You can buy a gallon at Menard's for the price of a quart at the marina. I did mine twice held up well an dlooks great.

You might want to re-think that boiled Linseed oil Jason, teak oil is not just boiled linseed oil, it is actually a blend of oils (including linseed) to waterproof and prevent mildew, boiled lindseed is not either. However there are other options, read below (pulled from a professional woodworkers web site);

Teak oil is an oil/varnish mixture that generally contains a little pure tung oil added to linseed oil. The oil mixture is then mixed with varnish and mineral spirits.

Finally, there is "Danish Oil" which is again a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. See a pattern here? In other words, Tung Oil Finish, Teak Oil and Danish Oil are virtually identical. The differences are based on marketing, not performance.

Of course, there is also real, 100% tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Both are what are known as drying oils. The only difference is that tung oil is slightly less amber and slightly more water resistant. Neither are really protective or water resistant. Both will support mildew and mold.

[Razzman]

Oh yeah, mine stays on the boat (covered) during the off season without issue. I also put a coat of teak oil on at the last of the season before putting away.

[illiniboarder88]

TRD, let me know how that goes. I"m going to be doing mine in two weeks. I've never done a swim platform but I've done sailboat teak. I plan on hitting it lightly with a power washer, and then going over it with a little steel wool. Then, I'll apply this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...2&classNum=322

[Razzman]

TRD, let me know how that goes. I"m going to be doing mine in two weeks. I've never done a swim platform but I've done sailboat teak. I plan on hitting it lightly with a power washer, and then going over it with a little steel wool. Then, I'll apply this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...2&classNum=322

Do not use steel wool as any steel fibers trapped will rust right up and make it look like crap! Use brass wool instead, a bit harder to find but it won't rust and if you do it right and take your time it will look great. Example, my 13 year old platform.

[illiniboarder88]

Good lord, that thing looks nice. I have a hard time believing mine will look that good. The previous owner let it sit in the water.

[chadster2]

I love this place... ya-all are the best. I've seen 3 ways to do this now, and all 3 have their good points. I've been sanding mine every year now. Gets rid of most all the nicks and no extra chemicals. I buy the best oil, because it's cheep per year. Last year I let it cure cold and it didn't soak in enough. I think that before they build the deck they should let the wood sit longer so there is less shrinking after assembeled. mine is off and both are inside.

[Razzman]

Good lord, that thing looks nice. I have a hard time believing mine will look that good. The previous owner let it sit in the water.

As long as it's not warped yours can look this good too. Use a dedicated teak cleaner to remove all the crap and mildew. Then sand it with 100-150 grit sandpaper enough to smooth it out without removing to much material. Any finer paper and you're actually sealing the teak and it won't take the oil like it should. Then finish with whatever you choose.

I use plain old Watco Teak Oil bought from Home Depot. I've seen all kinds of other finishing kits for teak but after a few outtings they all seem to look the same to me. I use the boat every other weekend at least and at most i've re-applied teak oil once during the season to maintain it and that takes all of thirty minutes once you've restored it. I re-appy right on the boat in the sun as it soaks it real good on a warm platform.

Here's mine the day i bought the boat ...