Tower speakers???

[Guest]

That's just another positive side effect...

I agree but it is another thing to be Quick disconnected when you remove the swim platform to get it in the garage. For me that would be a pain in the arse each weekend I used the boat. Who cares about the looks. I care about the convienence. Based on the demo audio the sound reduction was great and as I age and have moved past 50 noise is not my friend but closer to a nemisis. My worth. I would get next year if it did not mount to swim platform.

[Lunchbox]

It's too ugly. If it looked better I'd get it....call me shallow.

Hey Shallow... The benefits that it gives by far outweigh the ascetics...

Reduced CO... Less noise from the engine allowing more noise from your speakers... Those are the big ones...

[Guest]

My on this? Listen to what these guys are telling you, trying to do this on the cheap will result in unhappiness. There are many instances recorded here of people doing just that and having to replace/add the amp to correctly drive speakers or their systems shutting down or they sound like crap!

A dedicated amp for you towers is the only and correct way to do it if you want awesome sound and reliability. Nothing worse than your amp overheating and shutting everything down! Running the interior speakers in parallel works great as long as your not trying to kill them and they can handle the power but the towers really need to have dedicated channels to get the most out of them.

Also you really should have a dual battery setup with a switch or isolator so you don't get carried away playing tunes and drain your battery in the middle of nowhere. Again my

If you look at my post to chptrl (page4 Post 74) I am taking your advice. Do you by chance know where I can find a thread on adding second battery. What I am looking for is the wiring schematic. My boat has a switch so I am well on the way to be able to do if I have wiring info.

Thanks

[chpthril]

If you look at my post to chptrl (page4 Post 74) I am taking your advice. Do you by chance know where I can find a thread on adding second battery. What I am looking for is the wiring schematic. My boat has a switch so I am well on the way to be able to do if I have wiring info.

Thanks

Here is a thread with a schematic. It shows adding a 2nd deep cycle to the factory EIDM.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3985

Give me a couple of days (heading off to another boat show ) and I will modify it to show adding a deep-cycle battery, with a switch only and with an Isolator only, and you can decide which way you want to go.

If your boat has the ON/OFF switch, it will not work for you in this application. You will need the Perko 1/BOTH/2/OFF switch.

[dcsnowwake]

lab.....for my 3some and sub and speakers, im running 3 mabye a 4th amp

im going to be using 3 batteries now....you want at least 2 for what your doing.

im also upgrading the alternator too.

[Guest]

Here is a thread with a schematic. It shows adding a 2nd deep cycle to the factory EIDM.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3985

Give me a couple of days (heading off to another boat show ) and I will modify it to show adding a deep-cycle battery, with a switch only and with an Isolator only, and you can decide which way you want to go.

If your boat has the ON/OFF switch, it will not work for you in this application. You will need the Perko 1/BOTH/2/OFF switch.

Thanks. enjoy the show, The only thing I may deviate on is only 1 deep cycle battery. The 20V storage is somewhat limited on starboard side where battery is. And I thought I was almost done spending $$$ on additions

[Razzman]

Lab, you can put that second bat anywhere. In fact my experience is closer to the amps the better. Costco has a good deep cycle for a good price plus you get their warrenty DCS is right that second bat is a must have if you plan on parking-n-partying to tunes! For your system your stock alt and an isolator should serv you just fine. I'm running 1200 total watts peak with a Stinger iso and a 65amp alt without issues at all. Quality cable at the correct gauge is the key here as well though. And of course it's also based on the fact you won't blast the system at high power until bat two is dead as well!

[Lunchbox]

Thanks. enjoy the show, The only thing I may deviate on is only 1 deep cycle battery. The 20V storage is somewhat limited on starboard side where battery is. And I thought I was almost done spending $$$ on additions

I have two batteries in my 20V and it's no problem... I'll take a picture of it this weekend... There's plenty of room... The only thing is the long cables you have to run to the amps but that's not too big a deal...

[Guest]

Lab, you can put that second bat anywhere. In fact my experience is closer to the amps the better. Costco has a good deep cycle for a good price plus you get their warrenty DCS is right that second bat is a must have if you plan on parking-n-partying to tunes! For your system your stock alt and an isolator should serv you just fine. I'm running 1200 total watts peak with a Stinger iso and a 65amp alt without issues at all. Quality cable at the correct gauge is the key here as well though. And of course it's also based on the fact you won't blast the system at high power until bat two is dead as well!

Hi Razzman,
I really don't want to put the second battery near the amps in the 20V because the amps are in the storage compartment behind the observers seat which is where we plan to put dry goods like towels amd snacks and extra t-shirts and stuff. I know I could isolate with a Battery box but I believe on the 20V there is a spot for battery #2 right next to battery #1 in the starboard under seat storage right behind the driver. At least thats what I remember from when I looked the boat over when I bought the fruitsalad for water boat. The location I have in mind will not force me to fish heavy guage wires up to the front of the boat depending on what is in their for additional amps in the observers storage. I am adding a small 2 channel 250 watt amp for the tower speaks so I will have to figure out when I actually have boat in my garage.

Thanks.

[time2kyl]

Here's a great source for getting your wire / cable online. Good quailty stuff at a great price: http://www.knukonceptz.com/

That's where I got all mine from. You could probably shop around and find a little cheaper, but their stuff worked out great for me. Decent prices and shipping was quick. No complaints here.

[xpjim1]

WWW.elementaldesigns.com was having a sale on power cable. Not sure if they still are but prices were excellent

[chpthril]

Hi Razzman,
I really don't want to put the second battery near the amps in the 20V because the amps are in the storage compartment behind the observers seat which is where we plan to put dry goods like towels amd snacks and extra t-shirts and stuff. I know I could isolate with a Battery box but I believe on the 20V there is a spot for battery #2 right next to battery #1 in the starboard under seat storage right behind the driver. At least thats what I remember from when I looked the boat over when I bought the fruitsalad for water boat. The location I have in mind will not force me to fish heavy guage wires up to the front of the boat depending on what is in their for additional amps in the observers storage. I am adding a small 2 channel 250 watt amp for the tower speaks so I will have to figure out when I actually have boat in my garage.

Thanks.

Lab, you'll need 20' of 8ga red and black cable to reach from the battery to the pass storage console and a 50amp manual reset breaker from www.waytekwire.com

[Lunchbox]

Lab, you'll need 20' of 8ga red and black cable to reach from the battery to the pass storage console and a 50amp manual reset breaker from www.waytekwire.com

Also have fun hanging out in the storage area on the 20V... It's quite cozy...

Nevermind going in with a broken shoulder like I did last month... I almost didn't make it out...

[Razzman]

Lab, you'll need 20' of 8ga red and black cable to reach from the battery to the pass storage console and a 50amp manual reset breaker from www.waytekwire.com

I would go with 4ga minimum with a 20' run due to voltage drop. I did a buddies Sanger that already had 8ga at about the same length and it sounded weak, changed it out to 4ga and problem solved.

[dogbert]

Also have fun hanging out in the storage area on the 20V... It's quite cozy...

Nevermind going in with a broken shoulder like I did last month... I almost didn't make it out...

Try working in the dry storage locker on a 21v when you're 6'7" and not quite as svelt as Talltigeguy. The opening is really small and hard to work in even after I removed the door.