Tower speakers???

[Razzman]

I concur. what started out as free accessories is adding up. Cable, new amp, new speaker wire, most likely another new amp since I might be redoing the interior speakers and the subs. I have to stop the madness.

Is there ever enough? LOL!

[Guest]

Ok, you've got what Tige calls the "Premium Sound System".


With the above suggestion, I have one word.....RUN, run very fast You cant parallel a pair of 150 watt RMS speakers into a pair of 75 watt RMS speakers for a lot of reasons: sound quality, balance, volume, heat generated by the amp.

Let me ask one question, would you run a "Z" rated tire on your Hyundai??? Nope, it would be a waste of good money and a great tire. So, dont you want to get the most out of those $800 Pro 60's!!!! You will need an Amp. I have not seen a Tige yet that came from the factory with Tower speakers that were not on their own amp.

You can get a good 2 chnl or smaller 4 chnl and run bridged, for less then $200. If your Lucky, the boat may be wired for that 2nd amp, and all you would need to do is wire the tower.

The MX350.4/ZX350.4 is an inexpensive 4chnl that is perfect for 1 pair of PRO 60's with 175 watts x 2 bridged @ 4ohms.

My on this? Listen to what these guys are telling you, trying to do this on the cheap will result in unhappiness. There are many instances recorded here of people doing just that and having to replace/add the amp to correctly drive speakers or their systems shutting down or they sound like crap!

A dedicated amp for you towers is the only and correct way to do it if you want awesome sound and reliability. Nothing worse than your amp overheating and shutting everything down! Running the interior speakers in parallel works great as long as your not trying to kill them and they can handle the power but the towers really need to have dedicated channels to get the most out of them.

Also you really should have a dual battery setup with a switch or isolator so you don't get carried away playing tunes and drain your battery in the middle of nowhere. Again my

I agree with both of you. The only thing is I am not going with P60's because of the cost. CHP what is the model of your kicker tower speakers.

I am looking at getting Kicker (KS60) 6.5" Speakers (180 watts each Peak and 65 watts RMS each). These can be had on ebay new from between $300 and $400 bananas.

[chpthril]

I agree with both of you. The only thing is I am not going with P60's because of the cost. CHP what is the model of your kicker tower speakers.

I am looking at getting Kicker (KS60) 6.5" Speakers (180 watts each Peak and 65 watts RMS each). These can be had on ebay new from between $300 and $400 bananas.

Mine are all KS650.2 components: 75w RMS

I would still recommend and amp for the tower speakers tho: ZX250.2 175w x 2 @ 2ohm

[Big Wave]

This thread has got me thinking. I spent stupid money on the "Tower of Power" on my 07 24ve. It Has 2 amps (Kicker ZX700.5 and a ZX350) with (6) Kicker KM speakers in the boat and (4) more on the tower. I have not been too happy with it so far and am looking at ways to improve it. I bought (4) of the B stock XS-650s and was planning to put them in the existing tower cans.
Anyone think this will help?
Any thoughts on improvements to this system with out scrapping the whole thing and starting over?

[rushin]

I suppose it could.

Stupid question... Is it tuned correctly?

[Big Wave]

I suppose it could.

Stupid question... Is it tuned correctly?

I asked the dealer to dial it in when I took it in for service at the end of the season. I have not seen the boat since as it is stored at our place in Meadview 6hrs away.I am hoping that helps but I will have to wait and see.

[Guest]

Mine are all KS650.2 components: 75w RMS

I would still recommend and amp for the tower speakers tho: ZX250.2 175w x 2 @ 2ohm

Do you have any concerns with remanufactured ZX250.2 amps with warranties? A bit cheaper!
I have ordered the KICKER ZX250.2 250 WATT 2 CHANNEL SUB AMP AMPLIFIER!

I am assuming you would bridge the two amps and wire the tower speaks in parallel. Yes?

Is there a good thread that talks about pulling the wires thru the tower? Based on the days events I have changed my mind and am going to self install and not have my dealer perform!! They want too much for it. and I did not want to invest heavily in the tower speakers because they will get beat to death on the road with bugs and such during the large amount of night travel I do.

Thanks all for reccomendations. I sure hope the stock system is better than I just read


Now all I need is my Bananna/Tangerine Fruitboat to actually start install. It won't get home until April. Nough Said.

I won the bid on the Kicker tower Speakers (KS60) 6.5" Speakers (180 watts each Peak and 65 watts RMS each)

[chpthril]

I asked the dealer to dial it in when I took it in for service at the end of the season. I have not seen the boat since as it is stored at our place in Meadview 6hrs away.I am hoping that helps but I will have to wait and see.

This thread has got me thinking. I spent stupid money on the "Tower of Power" on my 07 24ve. It Has 2 amps (Kicker ZX700.5 and a ZX350) with (6) Kicker KM speakers in the boat and (4) more on the tower. I have not been too happy with it so far and am looking at ways to improve it. I bought (4) of the B stock XS-650s and was planning to put them in the existing tower cans.
Anyone think this will help?
Any thoughts on improvements to this system with out scrapping the whole thing and starting over?

(1) Not that i'm an expert by any means, but I have found, through my own Tower of Power experience, that dealers dont have people that understand $h!t about stereo equipment, so it will probably never be tuned correctly.

(2) If yours is wired, by Tige, like mine was, it only has 2 pairs of speaker wires for the 4 speakers. They are wired parallel (2ohm load) and then bridged on the amp, 2 speakers on Amp1 and 2 on Amp2. This would be ok on a higher output amp, but the zx530.4 tends to "clip" @ about 3/4 volume this way. Per Phil's advice, I ran 2 more speaker pairs and have 1 speaker p/chnl and its LOAD and CLEAR

By wiring 1 p/chnl, I think your net watt at each speaker is about the same as your current config, but the amp runs cooler and more stable. I can crank the volume to 30 (33 is max on my CMD4 H/U be for it wants to clip.

(3) The W/S xs650's are 100w RMS, the Kicker ks650.2's are 75w RMS. I'm not positive on the output of the zx350.4 bridged @ 2ohms (where's Phil when you need him ) so I dont know if installing the W/s would help, because I think the amp is going to be the limiting factor here. I dont think they will be louder then the Kickers when pushed with the same amp

I installed a Wet Sounds system in a 20V last Fall: same Kicker amps, 6 xs650's, 2 PRO60's on the tower. My slightly tone deaf ears could not tell a difference between them and the Kickers (the cabin speakers, not the Pro60's guys )

(4) get out the grinder, the xs650's require a larger hole then the ks 650.2's

Lets get phil in on this one before you do anything.

[chpthril]

Do you have any concerns with remanufactured ZX250.2 amps with warranties? A bit cheaper!
I have ordered the KICKER ZX250.2 250 WATT 2 CHANNEL SUB AMP AMPLIFIER!

I am assuming you would bridge the two amps and wire the tower speaks in parallel. Yes?

No problem at all, most of the time, they carry the same warranty.

No bridge, 2 chnl amp = 1 speaker per chnl.

Is there a good thread that talks about pulling the wires thru the tower? Based on the days events I have changed my mind and am going to self install and not have my dealer perform!! They want too much for it. and I did not want to invest heavily in the tower speakers because they will get beat to death on the road with bugs and such during the large amount of night travel I do.

Thanks all for recommendations. I sure hope the stock system is better than I just read

Your boat has great components in it, just not the best configuration, on the Tower of Power, from the factory

I took some pics when I rewired mine, but did not do an in depth write up. When you are ready, start a thread and I'll post them again with a little more info on how to "fish" the tower.

For about $25, you can buy a pair of Speaker Sox to cover them.

Now all I need is my Bananna/Tangerine Fruitboat to actually start install. It won't get home until April. Nough Said.

I won the bid on the Kicker tower Speakers (KS60) 6.5" Speakers (180 watts each Peak and 65 watts RMS each)

[/QUOTE]

[Guest]

No problem at all, most of the time, they carry the same warranty.

No bridge, 2 chnl amp = 1 speaker per chnl.



Your boat has great components in it, just not the best configuration, on the Tower of Power, from the factory

I took some pics when I rewired mine, but did not do an in depth write up. When you are ready, start a thread and I'll post them again with a little more info on how to "fish" the tower.

For about $25, you can buy a pair of Speaker Sox to cover them.

[/QUOTE]
Well the good news is I don't have the "Tower of Power". I have the middle offering the Premier? or Premium which is all boat and no tower speakers with the woofer under the dash by the fire estinguisher drivers feet.

As I said in my last post the boat will not get home until April. I am predicting around tax day. I know some of your are concerned about me bad mouthing the dealer but I have been after them on my trailer and a punch list since November. It turns out my trailer is done and Trailmaster was going to bring it today 55 miles from the dealer but the dealer wanted me to haul it the last 55 miles. Well now it is on a trailer shippment to the area Friday.

The issues of not having enough watts you brought up they were ignoring but they raised P60's to $1550 and they sell by the mfg for $799. For the second amp if they were required to put one in it would run from them for $660.

Seats that needed repair because of loose vinyl just got ordered.

Other issues like sales tax,DNR and DMV paperwork which is typically done by dealer was pushed back to me. Thanks to you guys, I didn't loose my cool om any of the issues. I wrote a punch list and a polite email to Service, and my two sales reps one who happens to be the owner.

None of the issues in themselves are critical but they added up and I need to know ASAP if with the tower folded and the trailer modified to be 3 inches lower will it fit in my door with 3--4 inches between the hitch ball and the ground. If not construction time with association and village permits on 2 garage doors before the fruit salad boat can come home. We will work it out.

What all this means is the low cost tower amp and Kicker cans for 2008 will be installed by me with the help of the tigeowners forum around the end of April.

Thanks for all the help I think I will be happy with the tower since it turned out to be affordable at $388 including shipping.

I have a tight budget this spring because of a proud moment we have re: our 23yo daughters upcoming graduation with her masters in Physical therapy for kids. End of masters clinics $45 in gas every 2 days and ridiculously long hours commuting to where her current training clinic is with all the snow. If it snows, I am the taxi

[Big Wave]

(1) Not that i'm an expert by any means, but I have found, through my own Tower of Power experience, that dealers dont have people that understand $h!t about stereo equipment, so it will probably never be tuned correctly.

(2) If yours is wired, by Tige, like mine was, it only has 2 pairs of speaker wires for the 4 speakers. They are wired parallel (2ohm load) and then bridged on the amp, 2 speakers on Amp1 and 2 on Amp2. This would be ok on a higher output amp, but the zx530.4 tends to "clip" @ about 3/4 volume this way. Per Phil's advice, I ran 2 more speaker pairs and have 1 speaker p/chnl and its LOAD and CLEAR

By wiring 1 p/chnl, I think your net watt at each speaker is about the same as your current config, but the amp runs cooler and more stable. I can crank the volume to 30 (33 is max on my CMD4 H/U be for it wants to clip.

(3) The W/S xs650's are 100w RMS, the Kicker ks650.2's are 75w RMS. I'm not positive on the output of the zx350.4 bridged @ 2ohms (where's Phil when you need him ) so I dont know if installing the W/s would help, because I think the amp is going to be the limiting factor here. I dont think they will be louder then the Kickers when pushed with the same amp

I installed a Wet Sounds system in a 20V last Fall: same Kicker amps, 6 xs650's, 2 PRO60's on the tower. My slightly tone deaf ears could not tell a difference between them and the Kickers (the cabin speakers, not the Pro60's guys )

(4) get out the grinder, the xs650's require a larger hole then the ks 650.2's

Lets get phil in on this one before you do anything.

Thanks for the advice, I will stay tuned.

[Lucky 275]

This thread has got me thinking. I spent stupid money on the "Tower of Power" on my 07 24ve. It Has 2 amps (Kicker ZX700.5 and a ZX350) with (6) Kicker KM speakers in the boat and (4) more on the tower. I have not been too happy with it so far and am looking at ways to improve it. I bought (4) of the B stock XS-650s and was planning to put them in the existing tower cans.
Anyone think this will help?
Any thoughts on improvements to this system with out scrapping the whole thing and starting over?

Get an FAE if you don't already have one. Then the xs-650s. I can hear the water rushing under the hull of my boat with the FAE installed. It's crazy how quiet the engine is now.

[Guest]

RAZZMAN Post #44


I agree. Once I take possesion of my fruit salad boat I will look at what is installed already for battery # 2 and then finish it out myself. I hope my old computer dessign background still suffices. If not I'll locate the schematic which is on a thread around here somewheres

Thanks for the on the amp which I bought last night and more for the battery reccomendation.

[Guest]

Get an FAE if you don't already have one. Then the xs-650s. I can hear the water rushing under the hull of my boat with the FAE installed. It's crazy how quiet the engine is now.

I read up the other day on an FAE and was excited about adding one to my 20V when it gets home. Then I saw install pictures and realized it sits pretty far in back of the TAPS plate taking more room length wise when stored. I only have 20'5" so it became a non option unless it was easily removed. I don't remember who posted this but they indicated that the hose clamps and the FAE at those points are not easy to remove. So unfortunately I won't be buying an FAE( or even acquiring it )

[dcsnowwake]

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