Yeah, whenever we see surf videos or a movie or something, the kids say "Did you ride waves like that dad?" In the movie its a North Shore monster, or some dude tubing in pipeline. Uh, no. I surfed waves that averaged 3-6ft most of the time, an 8ft wave would bring out the brown trout. Now that they have surfed in 1-2 foot waves, they don't think I was such a lightweight anymore.
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In less than two weeks I will be at pipeline watching those bombs go off. I went last year and just had to go back. If you've never been to the pipeline masters, it is a must see event. On the last day we spent nine hours on the beach and it was so good that not even my 10 year old complained.
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