Originally posted by wetsounds1
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Phil,
True in theory but in real world applications and taking into account the way our ears work and “perception” of given frequencies, the results are different. Perception plays into effect as humans have a tendency to amplify higher frequencies. These higher frequencies “seem” louder to us. As two sounds leaving a speaker at the same level (intensity) but different frequencies such as high frequencies and low frequencies will not be perceived the same. So perception plays into account. Thus we will “hear” or perceive” the higher frequencies as louder. Not taking into account other factors like reflection, humidity, age etc…
Kscales,
We are re doing the install now, that is why I have not shown any pics as it has all been a temporary set up. We are getting it dialed in for some upcoming shows. I will upload pics when we get it finished.
I am not sure what you have in the boat now. What is in the boat now? As you only mentioned the pdx amps so I assumed you have all of those already. If the boat comes with the Kicker 5 ch amp. You would be fine leaving that in the boat on the inboat speakers and 10 inch subwoofer. And just using the pdx4.150 on the towers. If you have the pdx 4.100 on the towers now. And are happy with the output, then no worries. Listen to the system first and see how it works for you. As everyone has different objectives when it comes to their system.
As for the power wire. If you are sticking with the factory set up, the 8 ga is fine. If you are adding another amp. You will want to run separate power and ground as you do not want to have 2 amps running off a single 8 ga. You can also add another run of 8 ga to the same amp, thus giving you a 4 ga run if your amp needs the current. Proper current to the amplifier is key as they amp will be pulling current from the battery. Larger ga wire will handle more current. My system is quite different as I mentioned, I don’t do anything small so my entire system is 0 ga all the way into each amp using 0 to 4 ga adapters. It is overkill. But then again, this is our demo boat so it is a bit different. I also have 8 batteries in the boat, onboard chargers/power supplies and a 150 amp alternator on the way. So don’t look at how mine is because it is overkill. But I have around 7000 watts in the boat and it is designed to be able to play for long periods of time. So I have a lot of juice.
As for RCA’s. There are many different opinions on the quality of sound with any given wire. That is why you see rca’s that cost thousands of dollars and speaker wire that is $10 a foot. I will not get into that whole discussion. But I will say as long as you are using decent wire which the factory is. And you do not have any noise like engine noise. You will be fine with the RCA’s. If you have the funds to spend on higher quality ones, you can.
The head unit is not running any speakers on the factory set up. All the inboat speakers and 10 inch sub are being run off the 5 ch amp.
Let me see if I can explain ohms and impedance and series and parallel easily. The impedance of a speaker is designated as ohms. Ohms is a unit of measure. Amplifiers are designed to operate into some sort of a load. For instance one amplifier will produce 50 watts at 4 ohms. Meaning it will send 50 watts to a single 4 ohm speaker. Most car audio amps today will double the output power when the load is dropped if the amp can handle it. The same amplifier will produce 100 watts at a 2 ohm load. So if you hook up two 4 ohm speakers and wire them in parallel, you will decrease the impedance in half to a 2 ohm load. With both positives on the positive side of the amp and both negatives on the negative side of the amp. The amp will produce 100 watts at 2 ohms, in theory giving each speaker 50 watts. Series wiring is connecting the positive wire from the amp to the positive of speaker 1, then take the negative from speaker 1 and connect it to the positive of speaker 2. You then connect the negative of speaker 2 to the negative of the amplifier. This will increase or double the impedance. For two 4 ohm speakers, you will now be at an 8 ohm load on the amplifier. Then there is the combination of series and parallel. But I won’t get into that! In these applications, you will find that most of the time, you will be dealing with parallel wiring.
If you have a subwoofer that is a dual 2 ohm and you have an amp that cannot operate into a low impedance load. You can run that woofer in series making it a 4 ohm woofer and matching it to the amplifier. If you have an amp that can handle the low impedance load, you can run that same woofer in parallel making it a 1 ohm woofer and matching it to the amp. For instance, if you have a 2 ch class ab amp, most do not like to be bridged at anything lower than 4 ohms mono. So if you already have one of those, you can still use that amp on the dual 2 ohm woofer by the way you wire it. Now if you have a class d mono block amp that can play at 1 ohm, you can use that same woofer with that amp at 1 ohms and get a lot of power from that amp as the amp will increase the power output at the lower impedance.
Sorry if that is confusing but I tried to simplify it.
The subs do not have a built in crossover. Was referring to the tower speakers. For the subwoofer, you use the active low pass crossover built into the amp.
Sorry, Moki. Was busy typing this book here!
I think you set up is great. The towers have good power and your sub does too. The xs650’s work great with the power you have, although that can handle a solid 100 watts if you decide to up the power to them. But you are probably rocking so hard on the towers anyway, I would not worry about it. Unless you just want a winter project!
Tim
Wet Sounds
True in theory but in real world applications and taking into account the way our ears work and “perception” of given frequencies, the results are different. Perception plays into effect as humans have a tendency to amplify higher frequencies. These higher frequencies “seem” louder to us. As two sounds leaving a speaker at the same level (intensity) but different frequencies such as high frequencies and low frequencies will not be perceived the same. So perception plays into account. Thus we will “hear” or perceive” the higher frequencies as louder. Not taking into account other factors like reflection, humidity, age etc…
Kscales,
We are re doing the install now, that is why I have not shown any pics as it has all been a temporary set up. We are getting it dialed in for some upcoming shows. I will upload pics when we get it finished.
I am not sure what you have in the boat now. What is in the boat now? As you only mentioned the pdx amps so I assumed you have all of those already. If the boat comes with the Kicker 5 ch amp. You would be fine leaving that in the boat on the inboat speakers and 10 inch subwoofer. And just using the pdx4.150 on the towers. If you have the pdx 4.100 on the towers now. And are happy with the output, then no worries. Listen to the system first and see how it works for you. As everyone has different objectives when it comes to their system.
As for the power wire. If you are sticking with the factory set up, the 8 ga is fine. If you are adding another amp. You will want to run separate power and ground as you do not want to have 2 amps running off a single 8 ga. You can also add another run of 8 ga to the same amp, thus giving you a 4 ga run if your amp needs the current. Proper current to the amplifier is key as they amp will be pulling current from the battery. Larger ga wire will handle more current. My system is quite different as I mentioned, I don’t do anything small so my entire system is 0 ga all the way into each amp using 0 to 4 ga adapters. It is overkill. But then again, this is our demo boat so it is a bit different. I also have 8 batteries in the boat, onboard chargers/power supplies and a 150 amp alternator on the way. So don’t look at how mine is because it is overkill. But I have around 7000 watts in the boat and it is designed to be able to play for long periods of time. So I have a lot of juice.
As for RCA’s. There are many different opinions on the quality of sound with any given wire. That is why you see rca’s that cost thousands of dollars and speaker wire that is $10 a foot. I will not get into that whole discussion. But I will say as long as you are using decent wire which the factory is. And you do not have any noise like engine noise. You will be fine with the RCA’s. If you have the funds to spend on higher quality ones, you can.
The head unit is not running any speakers on the factory set up. All the inboat speakers and 10 inch sub are being run off the 5 ch amp.
Let me see if I can explain ohms and impedance and series and parallel easily. The impedance of a speaker is designated as ohms. Ohms is a unit of measure. Amplifiers are designed to operate into some sort of a load. For instance one amplifier will produce 50 watts at 4 ohms. Meaning it will send 50 watts to a single 4 ohm speaker. Most car audio amps today will double the output power when the load is dropped if the amp can handle it. The same amplifier will produce 100 watts at a 2 ohm load. So if you hook up two 4 ohm speakers and wire them in parallel, you will decrease the impedance in half to a 2 ohm load. With both positives on the positive side of the amp and both negatives on the negative side of the amp. The amp will produce 100 watts at 2 ohms, in theory giving each speaker 50 watts. Series wiring is connecting the positive wire from the amp to the positive of speaker 1, then take the negative from speaker 1 and connect it to the positive of speaker 2. You then connect the negative of speaker 2 to the negative of the amplifier. This will increase or double the impedance. For two 4 ohm speakers, you will now be at an 8 ohm load on the amplifier. Then there is the combination of series and parallel. But I won’t get into that! In these applications, you will find that most of the time, you will be dealing with parallel wiring.
If you have a subwoofer that is a dual 2 ohm and you have an amp that cannot operate into a low impedance load. You can run that woofer in series making it a 4 ohm woofer and matching it to the amplifier. If you have an amp that can handle the low impedance load, you can run that same woofer in parallel making it a 1 ohm woofer and matching it to the amp. For instance, if you have a 2 ch class ab amp, most do not like to be bridged at anything lower than 4 ohms mono. So if you already have one of those, you can still use that amp on the dual 2 ohm woofer by the way you wire it. Now if you have a class d mono block amp that can play at 1 ohm, you can use that same woofer with that amp at 1 ohms and get a lot of power from that amp as the amp will increase the power output at the lower impedance.
Sorry if that is confusing but I tried to simplify it.
The subs do not have a built in crossover. Was referring to the tower speakers. For the subwoofer, you use the active low pass crossover built into the amp.
Sorry, Moki. Was busy typing this book here!
I think you set up is great. The towers have good power and your sub does too. The xs650’s work great with the power you have, although that can handle a solid 100 watts if you decide to up the power to them. But you are probably rocking so hard on the towers anyway, I would not worry about it. Unless you just want a winter project!
Tim
Wet Sounds
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