Kicker Amps on Wetsounds?

[rensink]

Anybody know how the kickers power 4 wetsounds? Did some searching but couldn't find anthing. Wondering if we'll have to change out amps.

[chpthril]

Anybody know how the kickers power 4 wetsounds? Did some searching but couldn't find anthing. Wondering if we'll have to change out amps.

Nothing wrong with Kicker amps, its about matching the amp out put to the speakers rated RMS.

What Kicker amp do you have? My guess is that you have the factory installed ZX350.4?

If so, you are trickling a mere 45 watts per speaker to 4 Wet Sounds that would be happy seeing, if my memory serves my right, about 180 watts.

Kicker makes a couple of amps that would throw plenty of juice at W/S's, just not what Tige has chosen to use @ this time.

[Ks]

I don't want to hijack but are you saying the kicker amp is only giving 45 RMS to the interior speakers or to the tower speakers? what about the sub?

I have the factory kicker amp for the interior stuff and the sub and a dealer installed Alpine PDX4X100 running the 4 tower speakers.

I know the wet sounds/ and the focal in the samson cans are good, but I don't think i have enough power going to the sub and the interior stuff. am I right?

Would performance be improved dramatically if I added: ( since I already have one PDX I want to stay with Alpine)

the Alpine PDX 600X1 sub amp and another PDX 4X100 or 150 to run either the tower or the interior? what would be better for each? 150X4 or 100X4

Is there anying else I would have to upgrade or add to make the system pound hard?

[chpthril]

I don't want to hijack but are you saying the kicker amp is only giving 45 RMS to the interior speakers or to the tower speakers? what about the sub?

I have the factory kicker amp for the interior stuff and the sub and a dealer installed Alpine PDX4X100 running the 4 tower speakers.

I know the wet sounds/ and the focal in the samson cans are good, but I don't think i have enough power going to the sub and the interior stuff. am I right?

Would performance be improved dramatically if I added: ( since I already have one PDX I want to stay with Alpine)

the Alpine PDX 600X1 sub amp and another PDX 4X100 or 150 to run either the tower or the interior? what would be better for each? 150X4 or 100X4

Is there anything else I would have to upgrade or add to make the system pound hard?

I just assumed he was asking about tower speakers.

This is all hypothetical since I'm speculating on what components are installed.

Tige typical uses the Zx700.5 for the cabin spks and sub. As far as the W/S sub, I dont know if Tige is offering both the 10" and 12", but I installed a complete set up in a 20V for my dealer, and Tige sent the 10". If wired at 2ohm, the sub and amp are a great match IMO. The W/S cabin speakers could handle a little power based on specs, but I put 6 in the 20v with that amp and it was insanely loud. A whole lot louder then I typically like it so I tend to fade the cabin down and throw most of the volume out of the tower.

If you guys would post exactly what components you have, I'm sure somebody that knows far more then me will chime in with the answer you are looking for.

*EDIT* I double checked and the W/S Pro 60's are rated @ 150rms, not 180 that I posted early.

[philwsailz]

CHP is right. Give us the exact details, and whether or not you are talking tower or interior. I know Kicker and Wet Sounds are both well represented on the forum, and between everyone I have no doubt we can get you dialed in.

Phil

[wetsounds1]

Correct, PRO 60's can take 150 watts RMS. They are using the 350.4 which is rated at 60x4 at 4 ohms.(at 14.4volts so chpthril is probably right at 12.5 volts)

Tige is using our 10 inch subwoofer only. Not offering the 12 inch.

So for the inboat speakers and 10 inch sub, the 5 ch has good power. For the tower speakers, they are getting less than they can handle but good power for most of the consumers looking at a Tige and a great stereo system.

Can our speakers take more power. YES. It is kinda like the ballast option. Is the stock ballast option good enough for a lot of consumers. Yes. Is there a select group of people that would prefer to get more out of their boats wake. Yes and they will add more weight on their end. Same goes with the amplifiers.

The system sounds great overall and is balanced in sound. Works great for those consumers and we have had many dealers call us just to tell us how blown away they were at this system and they are proud to say that Tige has the best sounding factory system out of any boat company. So no worries there, the system rocks

Now, for the hardcore stereo guys on here and those that like to tweak and go to the extreme. You can choose to up the output with some more power on the amp side. For instance Ks, If I was doing your system and wanted to get the most out of it and are using the pdx amps. I would think the 4.100 is too small for the towers. I would put that on the in-boats, and put a 4.150 on the towers and the 600.1 on the sub. Or another easy option for rensink would be to keep it as is from the factory, and add one more 350.4 and put both of them in 2 ch mode on the towers getting 175x2 per pair! Remember that more amps, means more current draw and more wiring etc...there are a lot of things to consider on a production side.

Just remember, for those who have seen my RZ4 and my truck. I don't do anything small. And overkill is the name of the game on everything.

But from an overall consumer end, finding a balance is the best option. Which is what the system has. Great sound and great balance.

Tim
Wet Sounds

[philwsailz]

Correct, PRO 60's can take 150 watts RMS. They are using the 350.4 which is rated at 60x4 at 4 ohms.(at 14.4volts so chpthril is probably right at 12.5 volts)

Tige is using our 10 inch subwoofer only. Not offering the 12 inch.

So for the inboat speakers and 10 inch sub, the 5 ch has good power. For the tower speakers, they are getting less than they can handle but good power for most of the consumers looking at a Tige and a great stereo system.

Can our speakers take more power. YES. It is kinda like the ballast option. Is the stock ballast option good enough for a lot of consumers. Yes. Is there a select group of people that would prefer to get more out of their boats wake. Yes and they will add more weight on their end. Same goes with the amplifiers.

The system sounds great overall and is balanced in sound. Works great for those consumers and we have had many dealers call us just to tell us how blown away they were at this system and they are proud to say that Tige has the best sounding factory system out of any boat company. So no worries there, the system rocks

Now, for the hardcore stereo guys on here and those that like to tweak and go to the extreme. You can choose to up the output with some more power on the amp side. For instance Ks, If I was doing your system and wanted to get the most out of it and are using the pdx amps. I would think the 4.100 is too small for the towers. I would put that on the in-boats, and put a 4.150 on the towers and the 600.1 on the sub. Or another easy option for rensink would be to keep it as is from the factory, and add one more 350.4 and put both of them in 2 ch mode on the towers getting 175x2 per pair! Remember that more amps, means more current draw and more wiring etc...there are a lot of things to consider on a production side.

Just remember, for those who have seen my RZ4 and my truck. I don't do anything small. And overkill is the name of the game on everything.

But from an overall consumer end, finding a balance is the best option. Which is what the system has. Great sound and great balance.

Tim
Wet Sounds

Tim brings a lot a good points up. I agree with his comments too regarding the stock system, and its relevance to the average consumer.

The Alpine amplification being discussed is appropriate from a power standpoint; the key to mazimizing everyting is to have the REAL RMS power output of any and all amps be AT LEAST equal to the stated power handling of the speaker(s), and a tiny bit more is not a bad thing.

From a Kicker standpoint, the ZX 450.2 is truly the best Kicker amplifier to get everything you can out of a pair of Pro 60's. It is extremely comfortable with the 4-ohm load, and will deliver 150 watts per channel into the 4-ohm loads all day very comfortably. It will do it easier and will last longer than when compared to a loaded down 4-channel amplifier from any manufacturer.

Beyond that max output is attained by very carefully maximizing every setting; crossovers, gains, etc. to truly massage the "fit" between speaker and amp. For example, (and not to step on your toes Tim if you would suggest otherwise) your tower speaker/amplifier system will be louder, more efficient and less prone to failure with the crosover on that amp section set to "HI-PASS" in order to limit low frequencies that the tower speakers are probably not designed to reproduce.

[wetsounds1]

Yup agree, there is no reason to have sub bass coming from a tower system when you are trying to reach the rider. A low frequency wave is a longer wave and will not reach the rider at the same time as a high frequency wave. We usually recommend running the PRO 60's at 80HZ and up. Anything more than that and you then limit the mid bass. Now on the 80's you can drop that a bit as they can handle it because of larger drivers. The 485 can play full range all day long if you set the system up properly and have the right amp power. Most however run all at 80HZ as well. When designing our speakers, we test and design at full range and build the internal crossovers from that stand point. Although we are using reference grade amplification. So power is never a problem. With the proper power, they can play full range all day long with no worries. But as mentioned for the rider it is not as neccesary, so most people prefer to squeeze a bit more out of them so a high pass at 80HZ is usually the safe way to go

[Moki]

This is why I love this forum because we have such knowledgeable members (Chpthrl /Spharis,and many others) and industry experts (WetSounds1 and Philwsailz) willing to help. It has made a difference on my boat and has helped me to maximize the value of my Tige boat.

[Ruune]

Yup agree, there is no reason to have sub bass coming from a tower system when you are trying to reach the rider.

...besides, I could hear your bass up in camperland at waketoberfest. Sick stuff! Any idea when the new 12"ers will be available? I also dug those cadence amps, but would like to have some matching wetsounds amps w/ the maltese cross on them.

[wetsounds1]

Oh yeah New spl 12's the XS-XXX will be shipping end of Jan. The boys at Hydrotunes are working on the boat now. Changing it up a bit. Adding one more 12! It had 2 of the XS-XXX in it at waketoberfest, going to have 3 now. Plus I am pulling all the amps. Will have twice as much power in it now. Double the power on the tower, inboats and subs. Got some stuff working on the amp side. They are going to be very cool. I like the clean under stated look on the amps so won't have any cross or anything, sorry. I am leaving that as the signature on our PRO Series tower products and XS series in boats. Not sure on the amps yet. Still tweaking.

[Moki]

I have two 485s driven by an Eclipse XA4000 that delivers 350 watts RMS and 400 watts peak power. I have four XS-650 in the boat and a TC Sounds 12" subwoofer driven by an Eclipse XA5000 50 watts are going to the XS-650 and 300 watts are going to the TC Sounds sub.

Any recommendations on how my system should be set up?

[rensink]

Yes I was talking about the tower speakers. So I will just more then likely have to mess with my amps?

P.S. School sucks lol

[kscales]

[QUOTE=wetsounds1;108466Now, for the hardcore stereo guys on here and those that like to tweak and go to the extreme. You can choose to up the output with some more power on the amp side. For instance Ks, If I was doing your system and wanted to get the most out of it and are using the pdx amps. I would think the 4.100 is too small for the towers. I would put that on the in-boats, and put a 4.150 on the towers and the 600.1 on the sub. Remember that more amps, means more current draw and more wiring etc...there are a lot of things to consider on a production side.
Tim
Wet Sounds[/QUOTE]

Thanks Tim for the feedback. Phil as well

Can you post pics of your set up? we have all heard about it but I don't think pics have ever been posted

As for my system, you are suggesting buy the Alpine 600X1 for the 10' WS sub that comes stock in the boat and buy a PDX 150X4 to run the tower speakers and switch the PDX 100X4 to the cabin stuff is that correct?

As for upgrading the wires what should I do, and do I need to do this? I think the boat comes with 8ga and the Alpine say 4ga, what do you use? and what does the bigger wire really do? Also, what RCA's do you use? again I don't think the ones in the boat are anything special, would this be a good upgrade?

Is anything in the boat running off the deck power or is it all powered by the amp?

I am not really understanding the 2 vs 4 ohms and parallel vs series for speakers?

What are the cabin speakers running and how are they set up from the factory?

You mentioned the sub has a built in CrossX do all the speakers in your line have this?

The funny thing is, like 15 years ago I was into car stereos, I should know this but I cant remember all of it. ( old age LOL)

Thanks for your help.

[philwsailz]

Yes I was talking about the tower speakers. So I will just more then likely have to mess with my amps?

P.S. School sucks lol

Yeah, you have an opportunity to replace the amplification that came in the boat stock with something more in-line with the power handling capabilities of the speakers. Let the Wet Sounds guys make a solid recommendation based on their experience with their speakers. I trust them...


BTW, Tim...

For a given set of envorinmental situations, temp, humudity, elevation etc. the speed of sound is constant. Sound leaving any point source, regardless of frequency will arrive at any other point with all frequencies at the same time.

Now the fun... Amplitude, and therefore acoustic power dissipates differently and as a function of frequency, with the higher frequencies being attenuated more quickly as distance increases. Also, the higher the frequencies by nature have shorter wavelengths, and therefore are more easily absorbed by any non-reflective materials and/or walls or boundaries. That is why we can often hear the car next to us kicking the subs at a stop light, but more often than not we do not sense the HF in the same manner.