General oil use question?

[zad0030]

Thanks guys! There is no chance my drain tube will make it to the drain plug hole, it's on the opposite side. I just wasn't sure if oil would come spurting out or what was going to happen. This info helps.

It should have no problem, our drain tube almost touches the ground.

[Jason B]

It should have no problem, our drain tube almost touches the ground.

Your hose is much, much longer than mine.
Don't go there.

[zad0030]

Your hose is much, much longer than mine.
Don't go there.

I saw that coming this whole thread... I was just waiting for someone to go there. LOL !

[TRD]

That is what I did last year. I got as much as I could out of the dipstick area and then drained the rest out of the bottom. I ran the boat until the temp started to come up.

When I drain the block using the peacocks, do I have to take any other hoses off? or do anything else? How do you clear the water out of the impeller and the exhaust areas? or is that not important. You guys made the oil issue pretty clear.

[zad0030]

That is what I did last year. I got as much as I could out of the dipstick area and then drained the rest out of the bottom. I ran the boat until the temp started to come up.

When I drain the block using the peacocks, do I have to take any other hoses off? or do anything else? How do you clear the water out of the impeller and the exhaust areas? or is that not important. You guys made the oil issue pretty clear.

My engine has these blue plugs, I pull those and let the water drain then pour anti freeze in until i see the anti freeze come out. Then put the blue plugs back in and dump the rest of the anti freeze in. The exhaust is something we forgot about last year and this year im just going to jack the trailer all the way up.

[TRD]

My engine has these blue plugs, I pull those and let the water drain then pour anti freeze in until i see the anti freeze come out. Then put the blue plugs back in and dump the rest of the anti freeze in. The exhaust is something we forgot about last year and this year im just going to jack the trailer all the way up.

Hope this isn't a stupid question, but how did you pour antifreeze in? Did you pull the cover off the thermostat? or is there an easier way?
Thanks

[zad0030]

Hope this isn't a stupid question, but how did you pour antifreeze in? Did you pull the cover off the thermostat? or is there an easier way?
Thanks

I just take off one of the bigger hoses at the top of the engine and pour it in there.

[chpthril]

Hope this isn't a stupid question, but how did you pour antifreeze in? Did you pull the cover off the thermostat? or is there an easier way?
Thanks

The hard part about adding antifreeze, is that the cold antifreeze will cause the thermo to shut and and then the antifreeze will by-pass the engine and go out the exhaust.

If you get the engine good and hot on the fake-a-lake and then switch to the antifreeze, then the antifreeze will cool the thermostat a little, but not close it. The best way to fill the block with antifreeze would be to remove the thermo and poor in the pink stuff. A whole lot of work plus a gasket.

On my previous boat, an I/O, I used marine antifreeze because the engine drain plugs were to hard to get to. On the Tige, it is so easy to drain, takes 10 mins on the ramp, that I just pull the plugs and drain the water an forget it.

I'd say drain the engine and trans real good and forget the antifreeze.

[CP3]

how do you go about draining water out of the engine completely?

[chpthril]

how do you go about draining water out of the engine completely?

You can drain about 90% of the water. The rest left in the block will not be a problem. If it freezes and expands, there will be plenty of space for the ice to expand, so no freeze plugs will will pop. Rust is not an issue because marine blocks are cast/cured differently than auto blocks.

[anhaney]

You can drain about 90% of the water. The rest left in the block will not be a problem. If it freezes and expands, there will be plenty of space for the ice to expand, so no freeze plugs will will pop. Rust is not an issue because marine blocks are cast/cured differently than auto blocks.

Ditto everything Chpthrill said. I get the engine good and hot. then I fill a bucket with RV anti freeze. It is cheaper than regular anti freeze and it is not as aggressive on the systems seals.

Once the engine is hot I move the hose on the fake a lake to a smaller hose that fits in the buck and suck it all through the engine.

the other thing I have seen some people do is us a camp stove and an old pot to heat up the antifreeze going into the engine to keep the Tstat open. But that is a lot of work.

[TRD]

Ditto everything Chpthrill said. I get the engine good and hot. then I fill a bucket with RV anti freeze. It is cheaper than regular anti freeze and it is not as aggressive on the systems seals.

Once the engine is hot I move the hose on the fake a lake to a smaller hose that fits in the buck and suck it all through the engine.

the other thing I have seen some people do is us a camp stove and an old pot to heat up the antifreeze going into the engine to keep the Tstat open. But that is a lot of work.

I really don't mean to ask so many questions, this is my 2nd winter w/ this boat and this is the nicest boat I have owned. (and I love it). I understand what anhaney is saying. That is what I did last year. I have a bucket that I can flip a valve and the antifreeze goes through. My problem w/ that is I am never sure that the antifreeze is in the block and didn't go out the exhaust. I pulled the thermostat last year so I knew it was in there.

I would really like to understand what you are doing for sure chptril. This sounds like the way I would like to do it. So if I do this should I be ok:
I will run the engine and change my oil and filter. Run the engine until hot again, and fog the engine. Then while on level ground open the blue plugs and drain the block and then I was going to pull the boat up the hill w/ the exhaust facing down the hill to let gravity drain the exhaust. Put the boat up for the winter.

Next season: Change the impeller and the water/seperator filter and I should be ready to go. Does this sound ok.

The only thing that I hope I am not sure about is when the block is draining should I pull a big hose off where the thermostat is to help it drain better or is this not needed?
Thanks, and sorry for so many questions.

[chpthril]

Just to clarify to anyone that may read this:
USE MARINE/RV ANTI-FREEZE ONLY, NEVER USE THE GREEN OR ORANGE AUTOMOTIVE ANTI-FREEZE/COOLANT.

The automotive coolant is toxic to the environment (kills pets, fish, birds, plants, etc) and it is nearly impossible to drain it all out before the boat goes in the water.

[chpthril]

I really don't mean to ask so many questions, this is my 2nd winter w/ this boat and this is the nicest boat I have owned. (and I love it). I understand what anhaney is saying. That is what I did last year. I have a bucket that I can flip a valve and the antifreeze goes through. My problem w/ that is I am never sure that the antifreeze is in the block and didn't go out the exhaust. I pulled the thermostat last year so I knew it was in there.

I would really like to understand what you are doing for sure chptril. This sounds like the way I would like to do it. So if I do this should I be ok:
I will run the engine and change my oil and filter. Run the engine until hot again, and fog the engine. Then while on level ground open the blue plugs and drain the block and then I was going to pull the boat up the hill w/ the exhaust facing down the hill to let gravity drain the exhaust. Put the boat up for the winter.

Next season: Change the impeller and the water/separator filter and I should be ready to go. Does this sound ok.

The only thing that I hope I am not sure about is when the block is draining should I pull a big hose off where the thermostat is to help it drain better or is this not needed?
Thanks, and sorry for so many questions.

Sounds like you got it TRD Any hose that looks like it may hold water, pull it off and see. You may also have a trans cooler in the raw water hose that would need to be drained. Mine lays low in the bilge, so I have to pull the hose off one side to drain it. Cant remember when we were looking at yours.

Dont forget to put the fuel stabilizer in the tank before you warm the engine for the oil change. This will allow the stabilizer to reach the injectors.

[TRD]

You may also have a trans cooler in the raw water hose that would need to be drained. Mine lays low in the bilge, so I have to pull the hose off one side to drain it. Cant remember when we were looking at yours.

Dont forget to put the fuel stabilizer in the tank before you warm the engine for the oil change. This will allow the stabilizer to reach the injectors.

Thanks, I have the fuel stabilizer already, I will put that is first and then go and fill the tank (I use high test for this, is this a waste of money). I am not sure where the trans cooler is, can I do this afterwards. I would like to take some pictures of the hoses that go out the back and you can let me know can't you?