Originally posted by Wake Bandits
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Originally posted by oktige View Posti guess it all depends on your dealer from time to time... when i bought my boat back in september.. i had took it out on the water 3 times.. the next day after the last trip i was up in my boat vacuuming it out and noticed a rub on one of the seats...(could have been done by me) i called my dealer told them about it.. they said no problem after the season bring it in.. i brought it in for winterization at the end of october.. they orrdered a new peace, waxed my boat, detailed it, and did the winterization all at no charge... thats customer service!!!! i love h2osports unlimited in Stillwater Oklahoma!!!!
This is the third thread I have posted to regarding gel blisters recently. Loudelectronics is arguing that the family Bayliner never blistered. That by itself is just not a strong enough argument to make a sweeping statement about boats and how they should not blister.
We should all assume our fiberglass boats will blister if left in the water for long periods. Gelcoat is porous, period. If you have an experience where you did not get blisters, I would just count you in the lucky column.
Get on-line, and/or go to your local Chandlery, (West Marine, Boat U.S. or wherever) and ask around about wet slipping fiberglass boats. To the person, these people will share with you that you need to treat the bottom of your boat if you intend to leave it in the water for extended periods. Go to a local marina in the spring and see what everybody is doing prior to putting their boat back in the water. Most will be applying new bottom paint.
Some of you reading this might argue that the salesmen at these stores mentioned above certainly will try to sell you something to paint/apply on the bottom of your boat; it is their job. Go a step further and do some research on-line and se if you can find other documentation in support of the application of barrier coatings to prevent water ingress and marine growth.
I hate to step on anybody's toes; I am a member here in every sense to try to help people, but IN MY OPINION leaving a boat in the water for extended periods without proper preparation is about as bad as not bothering to winterize your motor if you live in areas subject to freeze. You are just gambling. Odds are, a boat left in the water without being properly prepared for such a thing WILL develop blisters.
Show me a non-trailered cruiser without bottom paint, and I will point out the fact that it is a radio controlled toy...Last edited by philwsailz; 01-18-2008, 04:39 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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Originally posted by philwsailz View PostAndy and Brian and the guys are great at h2o for sure.
This is the third thread I have posted to regarding gel blisters recently. Loudelectronics is arguing that the family Bayliner never blistered. That by itself is just not a strong enough argument to make a sweeping statement about boats and how they should not blister.
We should all assume our fiberglass boats will blister if left in the water for long periods. Gelcoat is porous, period. If you have an experience where you did not get blisters, I would just count you in the lucky column.
Get on-line, and/or go to your local Chandlery, (West Marine, Boat U.S. or wherever) and ask around about wet slipping fiberglass boats. To the person, these people will share with you that you need to treat the bottom of your boat if you intend to leave it in the water for extended periods. Go to a local marina in the spring and see what everybody is doing prior to putting their boat back in the water. Most will be applying new bottom paint.
Some of you reading this might argue that the salesmen at these stores mentioned above certainly will try to sell you something to paint/apply on the bottom of your boat; it is their job. Go a step further and do some research on-line and se if you can find other documentation in support of the application of barrier coatings to prevent water ingress and marine growth.
I hate to step on anybody's toes; I am a member here in every sense to try to help people, but IN MY OPINION leaving a boat in the water for extended periods without proper preparation is about as bad as not bothering to winterize your motor if you live in areas subject to freeze. You are just gambling. Odds are, a boat left in the water without being properly prepared for such a thing WILL develop blisters.
Show me a non-trailered cruiser without bottom paint, and I will point out the fact that it is a radio controlled toy...
That is good to know. I had no clue that you need to prep your boat before you put in the water for long period of time.
Perhaps the manufacture should include that on the manual information on how to treat your boat in case you intend to leave it the water. When I bought my boat I assumed it is okay to leave it in the water. I never did and never will now, but I didn't know about preparing the boat before leaving in the water.The laughter of the world is merely loneliness pathetically trying to reassure itself. - Neal A. Maxwell
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tessa
Originally posted by philwsailz View PostAndy and Brian and the guys are great at h2o for sure.
This is the third thread I have posted to regarding gel blisters recently. Loudelectronics is arguing that the family Bayliner never blistered. That by itself is just not a strong enough argument to make a sweeping statement about boats and how they should not blister.
We should all assume our fiberglass boats will blister if left in the water for long periods. Gelcoat is porous, period. If you have an experience where you did not get blisters, I would just count you in the lucky column.
Get on-line, and/or go to your local Chandlery, (West Marine, Boat U.S. or wherever) and ask around about wet slipping fiberglass boats. To the person, these people will share with you that you need to treat the bottom of your boat if you intend to leave it in the water for extended periods. Go to a local marina in the spring and see what everybody is doing prior to putting their boat back in the water. Most will be applying new bottom paint.
Some of you reading this might argue that the salesmen at these stores mentioned above certainly will try to sell you something to paint/apply on the bottom of your boat; it is their job. Go a step further and do some research on-line and se if you can find other documentation in support of the application of barrier coatings to prevent water ingress and marine growth.
I hate to step on anybody's toes; I am a member here in every sense to try to help people, but IN MY OPINION leaving a boat in the water for extended periods without proper preparation is about as bad as not bothering to winterize your motor if you live in areas subject to freeze. You are just gambling. Odds are, a boat left in the water without being properly prepared for such a thing WILL develop blisters.
Show me a non-trailered cruiser without bottom paint, and I will point out the fact that it is a radio controlled toy...
I totally agree with you. Our first Searay blistered after we ;eft it in the water for most of a season. After that none of my boats were left in the water for more than a week and np blisters. You can find many articles re: blisters and extended periods in water. Get your self a lift if you live on a lake or pull it out at the end of a weekend.
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I am not makeing a sweeping arguement that boats should not blister. There is simply more to it. I want to know why my bayliner did not blister when it was only a $17000 boat and a $50000 boat is? I also left my Tige in the same lake with out any blistering. So my conclusion is that it depends on ion concentrations in the water and possibly water temperature. There is only a few weeks in the summer where water reaches 80*. Most of the time it is 60 to 70. Every 10* difference in temp, doubles any chemical reaction. However in our case it is simply osmosis. There has to be something in the gelcoat/fiberglass interface that is in high concentrations vs. what is in the water. Water will simply not penatrate a membrane unless there is higher pressure or higher concentration on either side of the membrane. There is actually 14 psi exterted on the water so that rules that out. So it as to be higher concentrations that make the water want to dilute these concentrations. Now this is all null and void if there is a possibility of capillary suction. That would require small holes and some air pressure. Then this would be a result of poor gel coat application.
What if the gelcoat is to think on these boats? I know for a fact that the gelcoat on these boats are very thick. Alot thicker then what is on the runabouts (bayliner). This means the thicker gelcoat can absorb more water? There for taking longer to expell this water. Also could be why the gelcoats crack really easy vs. thinner gelled boats.
Just throwing this out there....2016 Tige Z3, 2014 Tige Z3
2013 Tige Z3, 2004 Tige 24V (Legen....dary)
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Supreme Tigé Master
- Apr 2007
- 12007
- Lake Carl Blackwell, Stilly, USA
- 54 Bellcraft, 56 Burchcraft, 61 LoneStar, 75 Catalina 27
Originally posted by loudelectronics View PostI am not makeing a sweeping arguement that boats should not blister. There is simply more to it. I want to know why my bayliner did not blister when it was only a $17000 boat and a $50000 boat is? I also left my Tige in the same lake with out any blistering. So my conclusion is that it depends on ion concentrations in the water and possibly water temperature. There is only a few weeks in the summer where water reaches 80*. Most of the time it is 60 to 70. Every 10* difference in temp, doubles any chemical reaction. However in our case it is simply osmosis. There has to be something in the gelcoat/fiberglass interface that is in high concentrations vs. what is in the water. Water will simply not penatrate a membrane unless there is higher pressure or higher concentration on either side of the membrane. There is actually 14 psi exterted on the water so that rules that out. So it as to be higher concentrations that make the water want to dilute these concentrations. Now this is all null and void if there is a possibility of capillary suction. That would require small holes and some air pressure. Then this would be a result of poor gel coat application.
What if the gelcoat is to think on these boats? I know for a fact that the gelcoat on these boats are very thick. Alot thicker then what is on the runabouts (bayliner). This means the thicker gelcoat can absorb more water? There for taking longer to expell this water. Also could be why the gelcoats crack really easy vs. thinner gelled boats.
Just throwing this out there....
As owners of boats, (boats we all already own) it is important to know how to maintain them, preserve them, and do our best job not letting things go wrong. As for blisters, for most of us that simply means not wet-slipping our boats without barrier coats. Understand, a simple scratch due to trailer loading or unloading, the occasional beaching at on the swim beach in party cove, any other abrasive event; all of these examples can lead to water ingress even in an otherwise totally impervious hull.
Did you ever get that water-line scun line that would not scrub off? You could even wet sand it and it woudl not go away? Ever use a cleaning product with Oxalic acid or tri-sodium phosphate in it to get rid of the line? Bleach? The reason we result to chemical to clean stubborn hull stains is becuase the unsightly stuff in not on the surface... It is in the gel, under the surface. How did it get there? Porosity....Last edited by philwsailz; 01-21-2008, 02:41 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....
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