PVC Pipe To Support Wires

[da.bell]

Timmy! wrote on Wakeworld:

One thing I was surprised at was the use of 3" diameter PVC pipe cut into 2" chunks and that is what the wire is actually ran through along the sides of the boat, seemed a little cheap to me but this is only my 2nd boat.

Does anyone know why Tige did this instead of using the entire PVC pipe to help support the wiring? Wouldn't it be better to have one large semi-flexible pipe running down the starboard side of the boat?

[dogbert]

Any time you enclose wiring, you run the risk of heat build-up. Also, if the wires short or need to be replaced, it would be difficult to inspect them or re-run them.

I'm not sure about flexible pipe, but it's always more difficult to fish wires through that.

Finally, the PVC is directly beneath the gunwhale. If you mounted anything to the gunwhale, like a tower or bimini strap hooks, etc, you'd be hosed.

[G-MONEY]

Timmy! wrote on Wakeworld:

One thing I was surprised at was the use of 3" diameter PVC pipe cut into 2" chunks and that is what the wire is actually ran through along the sides of the boat, seemed a little cheap to me but this is only my 2nd boat.

Does anyone know why Tige did this instead of using the entire PVC pipe to help support the wiring? Wouldn't it be better to have one large semi-flexible pipe running down the starboard side of the boat?

YES!!!!!!!

But maybe the did it because it easer to get to and run new wire if you need to replace it.

[Timmy!]

I just figured they would use an automotive style clip instead to hold it to the gunwhales but I'm sure the PVC is easier to run the wire through, just looked kind of cheap to me.

[da.bell]

Makes sense but the size of the wires are thin and need more support IMO than a 2 inch PVC pipe every 3 feet (I think that is the amount of spacing they left behind). I feel that there will be problems with the wiring over a period of time the way that they did it. If enclosed, the wires would be supported better....

[talltigeguy]

I think it is fine. In fact, if it works, it is genius.

On my starboard side, there is just one of those with most of my wires going through it, so the other dangle a lot, seems like it might put some strain on the connections, but so far, so good.

Where is the thread? I would like to see other responses.

[da.bell]

It's not a thread about this topic specifically but a problem someone had with their 2006 Tige.... Timmy! brought this up and I thought I would ask over there....

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1186513045

[tktige']

Fiberglass can be very sharp and abrasive if left unfinished like it is on the interior of most hulls, with constant vibration it would work its way through any insulation and you would have a short. You need it there and that is the most cost effective for large wire groupings

[R&T Babich]

da.bell - The PVC sections work great and they are an inexpensive way to do it. Glassed in the way they are would add a little to structural rigidity, too. They should have used more. I've already added many wire ties to the engine/battery/TAPS/bilge/blower wiring and dash harness. This winter I'll remove the seat cushions down the right side and add 2 or 3 bolts thru the panels behind the cushions. The bolts will provide studs to attach wire ties to support the harness at least every foot. The sagging harness behind the seat is putting quite a pull on the dash wiring just sitting still. I imagine when going thru chop that harness is swinging up and down adding even more stress. I've also used split flexible wire loom on all the wiring and soldered every crimp connector I could find.

[TigeDuner]

da.bell - The PVC sections work great and they are an inexpensive way to do it. Glassed in the way they are would add a little to structural rigidity, too. They should have used more. I've already added many wire ties to the engine/battery/TAPS/bilge/blower wiring and dash harness. This winter I'll remove the seat cushions down the right side and add 2 or 3 bolts thru the panels behind the cushions. The bolts will provide studs to attach wire ties to support the harness at least every foot. The sagging harness behind the seat is putting quite a pull on the dash wiring just sitting still. I imagine when going thru chop that harness is swinging up and down adding even more stress. I've also used split flexible wire loom on all the wiring and soldered every crimp connector I could find.

The use of the split wire loom is extra insurance. All of the wires run in our boat are in the split loom, even single wires. Tige does it right.

[R&T Babich]

Tigeduner - apparently 5 years before your boat was built they didn't quite do it right. None of the wiring coming out of the last PVC ring in the right rear corner had any split loom on it - bilge pump,power,TAPS,lights,etc. It does now. I'm still wondering what they were thinking when I found the battery GND to the block and the POS to the starter draped down in the bilge where just 1" of water would submerge them both. The fuel hose was right next to them, too.
The split loom comes in large sizes for the cooling hoses, too. There were 3 places the hoses rubbed on metal parts, 2 that Mercruiser should have caught and one under the engine where the cooling hose to the fuel pump was rubbing the rudder mounting bracket. It's encouraging they're doing a better job.

[TigeDuner]

Even on my 05 the cables drop into the well where water can sit. Must not be a concern. So far so good.....