Weekend from hell...Need a fuel pump

[dogbert]

BTW, ever since we started wakesurfing a lot, I've noticed that I took on a lot of water through the blower exhaust vent in the back of my boat. This is a design issue in the 21v. When you stop, your wake washes up on the swim platform and, due to the angle of the transom, up into the blower exhaust and into the blower hose (through the blower) and into my bilge. I suspect that this accelerated the demise of my blower as well as my alternator (both recently replaced). It's a V-Drive, so the engine's in backwards, so what happens is the fanbelt starts spraying water all over the engine compartment. I don't think that's your problem, but it's something else to consider.

Finally, I do know that it's possible to overweight your boat...especially when you load it up for surfing (hey, we all get carried away trying to build the monster wake). It's possible that your boat's prop is too high a pitch for the application. For example, I re-propped to a 13x11.5 3-blade Acme. My previous prop was a 13x13 4-blade OJ. The big difference I noticed was when I had a lot of weight in the boat. I do know that the Pros load up their boats until they run like crap and then back off until it runs well. Just a thought.

[jleger98]

I do think that I likely get water in through the vents in the back. I suppose that if the blower hose is full of water, that would cause a backup of condensation in the engine compartment and that could cause the motor to run poorly.

As far as the weight, I have 1200lbs in bags when we surf. you think thats too much? The wake is awesome

[R&T Babich]

A fuel pressure gauge that I installed in the end of fuel rail was $25 and a universal test gauge at Harbor Freight is $15 + shipping: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92699
Knowing the pressure when you're having the problem would help determine if it's fuel or electrical.

The fuel tank vent line will have a surge protector in it. It looks like a black plastic in-line fuel filter. It has a check ball to help prevent fuel from flowing out the vent, only air. The one they installed at the factory is the low cost standard issue version that doesn't work very well, but that's another thread. The vent line should slope upwards from the tank to the thru-hull vent fitting without dipping and forming a trap.

[jleger98]

A fuel pressure gauge that I installed in the end of fuel rail was $25 and a universal test gauge at Harbor Freight is $15 + shipping: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92699
Knowing the pressure when you're having the problem would help determine if it's fuel or electrical.

cool, I'll check into this. However, I do have a GM block (95% sure anyway) and have no fuel rails. So I would have to tap into the fuel line directly, right?

The fuel tank vent line will have a surge protector in it. It looks like a black plastic in-line fuel filter. It has a check ball to help prevent fuel from flowing out the vent, only air. The one they installed at the factory is the low cost standard issue version that doesn't work very well, but that's another thread. The vent line should slope upwards from the tank to the thru-hull vent fitting without dipping and forming a trap.

I have had gas leak out of mine before when the tank is really full. I guess this would mean that the ball-valve is shot. That said, it does slope up to the vent.

[dogbert]

I have had gas leak out of mine before when the tank is really full. I guess this would mean that the ball-valve is shot. That said, it does slope up to the vent.

Me, too, although it's only once in a while. I wonder if it gets stuck shut, too?

[jleger98]

not sure. But that would certainly create undo pressure in the tank, and therefore SOME higher pressure in the fuel system, but wouldn't the fuel regulator handle that?

[dogbert]

Actually, if it gets stuck shut, then you'd have a major vacuum effect going on and eventually you'd overload your pump trying to keep up.

[jleger98]

Good point, yeah I guess it wouldn't really work the other way would it. Crap its not even Monday. So would a fuel pressure gauge tell that?

[dogbert]

That would give you an indication if you had a problem. Perhaps forcing some air into the gas tank to see if it was venting properly?

[R&T Babich]

Your engine must have the throttle body injection system. Look for a fitting (brass,capped) that looks like a Schrader tire valve. The test gauge will have a hose that will clip onto that valve. It might not be right in the hose, it could be near it on the throttle body base. Don't hook up the gauge until the ignition/pump has been off a few minutes to let the fuel pressure bleed down.
If there is no test fitting, you might be able to find the right brass adapters and add one where the fuel hose connects. I'm adding drain valves and temp alarm sensors in the trans and V-drive sump hose connections and finding the right combination of fittings is a puzzle. The fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail was easy. I moved the test port to the opposite rail and they were just brass fittings. The hardest part is keeping everything clean.

I just reread this thread. Do you have a lot of moisture in the engine compartment when this is happening? Our last boat had a leak in the exhaust bellows and was getting lots of steam in the air. We would start off and then lose power. One time when the power drop was substantial I cracked the engine cover open and the power returned to normal. Yes, too much moisture in the air will rob the engine of power. Our bilge pump thru-hull is on the right side of the boat. The bilge pump hose should go from the pump to a point higher than the thru-hull, then connect to the thru-hull. This will keep water from coming in the thru the bilge pump. Our original bilge pump hose was not installed with the higher bend in it. You may have several problems going here because of excessive moisture.

[spooner]

I would agree that you have a vapor lock issue. Your water temp/air temp have just gotton to the point where it is making a difference and I believe that the twin cities have ethnol in all their gas unless you can find one of those pumps that are tagged "for antique and classic cars only". Ethnol severely worsens vapor lock. BTW premium will also boil quicker than regular.

Heres how I deal with the same problem. I allways let the engine idle for n5- 10 mins after we ride and are gonna swim for a bit, leave the blower on the whole time, finally on the hottest days I was still having trouble so I installed a second blower on the line in the battery compartment it blows "in" to the engine compartment.

Vapor lock is the boiling of the fuel in the lines/rails so your injectors cannot deliver fuel. Try cycling the key before you start it several times if problem is gone vapor lock is the likely cause

[spooner]

FWIW I would never run around the lake wakeboarding surfing etc with a 15$ gauge from harbor freight on my fuel rail espically if the cover is hard to get open due to sacks.

[R&T Babich]

I would never run around the lake wakeboarding surfing etc with a 15$ gauge from harbor freight on my fuel rail espically if the cover is hard to get open due to sacks.

You're running around now with a $1 tire valve in the end of the fuel rail.
There's a couple of $.50 O-rings in the fuel pump hoses.
That's why I put in a fuel fume detector.
Hook it up, check it's not leaking - it's just a test.

[dogbert]

You're running around now with a $1 tire valve in the end of the fuel rail.
There's a couple of $.50 O-rings in the fuel pump hoses.
That's why I put in a fuel fume detector.
Hook it up, check it's not leaking - it's just a test.

LOL, actually, these parts are all over $15 But they should be <$1.

Back to jleger's problem. Ok, now that we know you're taking on water from wakesurfing, here's my suggestion. Move your bilge pump to the lowest point in the boat when you are surfing. For me, this was a big deal because all the water in my boat runs to the back, practically submerging the alternator. Previously, my bilge pump was at the lowest point of the convex V hull (right by the V-Drive). By the time I had enough water to run the bilge, there was a significant amount of water because our boat was heavily weighted to the port side rear and our bilge pump was located on the starboard side next to the V-Drive. Of course, when we started, it would all run to the back. It takes an inch or two to get the bilge pump to run at all when there's no ballast, so we're talking a lot of water in the back of my boat.

[jleger98]

i do seem to have a lot of moisture in the engine compartment. I'll have to check and see if there is water in the blower hose. I think that would answer the question. If the blower can't get enough air out past the water, it would certainly cause there to be too much moisture in there.

A few times when I have opened the engine compartment there has been visible condensation on the outside of the throttle body base, among other places.