Perfect Pass installed

[da.bell]

i gotta mow the lawn

ha ha ha

Just got finished washing two vehicles... Less than 20 minutes....

[zad0030]

haha wrong thread...howd that happen... i can speed cut in 45 min

[Moki]

I leave you guys alone for a few days and look what happens to this thread......did you say it came with a harness?

[Fit to be Tige]

Hey Moki - - a bunch of us are looking at making the leap and going for Perfect Pass in one form or another.. So other than drilling the hole in the bottom of your boat, was it really that easy? How long would you say it took?

[noworries]

I installed a Wakeboard Pro on my '02 2000V Limited this spring. I've got the Merc 315MPI engine.

The process is straightforward:

• (On a V-drive anyway) Remove the back seat and panel covering the v-drive to gain access to the bilge)
• Run the harnesses up the side and secure the wires
• Remove a speedo and hook up the wires
• Install the controller up high on the kickpanel under the dash and connect the harness
• Measure, measure, measure, for the paddlewheel then drill a small pilot hole
• Verify from the inside that the pilot hole location is OK, or fill it with epoxy and start over.
• Drill the paddlewheel hole (note you can move it about an inch in any direction relative to the pilot hole since you're drilling a 2" hole) I put mine more or less across from the sea water pickup behind the port bunk but inside the strake.
• Apply silicone sealant to the thru-hull fitting and install it aiming the arrow more or less toward the bow (so it will tilt inward slightly to follow the water flow down the hull). Don't apply silicone all the way up the threads because you want to be able to get the paddle wheel out later if needed.
• Install the nut and gasket on the inside, install the paddlewheel and run its harness to the dashboard and secure the nut with the supplied safety wire.
• I left the servo note to the last here, although I did that first. You install it so the cable will reach the throttle linkage and replace the ball stud on the throttle with the supplied parts. The only ready place I found to install my servo was to secure it to the port exhaust riser. The exhaust hoses from the riser to the down legs on mine aren't long enough to use the supplied hose clamps. So, I made a bracket out of a piece of angle iron, bolted it to the exhaust riser using existing tapped bosses in the riser, then drilled two small holes in the server bracket to bolt it to the new bracket. Its really stout and I like the solid mounting. Other engine configurations may have other mounting places that will accept the hose clamps.

I'd leave the back seat out for the first test drive in case you need to get back into the bilge for some reason.
I also took the opportunity to make up a fake-a-lake in the seawater supply line using a PVC tee, heater hose, ball valve and hose adapter, and to change the transmission, v-drive, and engine oils, fuel and engine filters and spark plugs, AND, to align the prop shaft.

In my case the prop shaft was misaligned which had caused the output shaft seal on the v-drive to start leaking a little. So, I pulled the V-drive, got a gasket set and seal from Walter and took it to a machine shop to R&R the output shaft. It turns out that a slight groove had been worn into the output shaft that fortunately they could polish out.

Definitely align your prop shaft. Walter wants no more than .003" difference between any measurement around the coupler. Mine's less than that now...

We'll be headed out tomorrow, actually, to give the PP a try. The whole project list took me about three weeks... PP itself you could do in a half day or so. It helps to have a second set of hands when you install the thru-hull fitting.