The clunking you hear when accelerating from a stop may be the shock in the accuator. It is a small shock absorber that takes up the slack in the accuator. Mine was really bad on my 2000 Extreme so when I took it out, it fell out in 2 pieces. My 06 Prestige is starting to make the same clunk. This little shock must get quite a workout. The part was less than $20.00 at the local trailer shop but read the manual to replace it. Lots of pieces inside the accuator and you do need to do it on the bench. Disconnecting the brake line and the power wire is very easy. Hope this helps......
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Okay, here is the professional view. I teach brake system repairs to technicians and assist them in fixing the assumed unrepairable vehicles.Originally posted by smachfam View Post
With disc brakes they run and average of 1100 degrees in temperature. One of the most over looked maintenance items on vehicles is the braking system and fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. (it absorbs moisture especially when hot). What do we do with boats. UHHH we put hot brakes into a lake and the master cylinder is close to the water. So you should be bleeding your brake systems on your trailers once a year at the least.
When you turn brake rotors you also raise the operating temperature of the brakes by 150 degrees for every .010 you machine off the rotor. On average you have to machine .020 of of any rotor to remove the excess run out thus raising your temperature to 1400 degrees and that is a minimum amount removed. I have drum brakes on my trailer. They were locking up when coming to a stop at the stop signs around town and leaving the lake. I took out the fluid tester and found moister in the fluid. I had just bleed the brakes four trips before that to the lake. I bleed the brakes again and lubed the actuator no more problems. Here is a picture of the fluid tester. They are not to cheap but I can tell you where to get them if you want one. Also here is a link to a service bulletin on bleeding brake systems. This is for cars so you will see it says to bleed your brakes every two years. I have seen several test and effects of not doing this. ABS pumps are not cheap. I have purchased a Vacuum bleeder and can direct you on the same for a reasonable price if you want one. Click around on the brake bulletins. They are great info for you to learn from. This is all just my two cents worth I hope it helps.
http://www.raybestos.com/wps/wcm/res...-24rev6-06.pdf
http://www.raybestos.com/wps/wcm/res...-06rev6-06.pdf
http://www.raybestos.com/wps/wcm/res...-13rev6-06.pdf
http://www.otctools.com/products/detail.php?id=1401Comment
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Thanks for the tutorial, Haney. That is a handfull. I was searching for the easy fixes, and so far have come up empty.
After having the brakes bled, the problem continues. I talked with a mechanic from the guys who make the surge mechanism. I gave him all the details including that I feel like the surge is soft - what I mean is that I can push it with my hand about 3/4 of the way in, or about 1.5 inches. The mechanic was not sure that it would solve the problem altogether, but said that he is sure that there is still air in the lines, and that I should only be able to compress the surge about 1/2 inch at the most with my bare hands. He suggested rebleeding the brakes, and that it is helpful to lower the master cylinder as far as possible so that the air is more likely to bleed 'uphill' when you bleed the brakes.
Just before the mechanic called, I was sharing this with my dealer, and he thought that being able to compress the surge mechanism that far by hand was just fine.
How far can you push your tongue in?Be excellent to one another.Comment
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Tall, what actuator do you have? I know that i cannot push in the actuator on my UFP A-60 by hand, way to stiff!"Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!Comment
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How do I tell what actuator I have?
The other thing that makes me wonder that I have air in the lines is that it does rebound some. I can push it in, and then it pushes part way back out. The mechanic said that the shock inside is hydraulic, so it should not come back out on its own.Be excellent to one another.Comment
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Go here to identify your actuator: DHM Trailers
The shock should come back out a bit, that's what shocks do or it wouldn't work worth a crap! It's based on the hydraulic pressure and whether it's 100% hydraulic or a gas/oil hybrid the internal spring does have resistance. Well let me rephrase that, it all depends whether it based on a push or pull system. If push then it will extend back out and if pull it will retract. Regardless if it's too easy to actuate the shock then it's probably shot. They are cheap to replace either way."Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!Comment
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Mine looks just like the A-60. The picture is not very good, but I am pretty sure that is it, and I know that it says something about a 6,000 pound limit.
The entire assembly is $175. I think that if a second bleed does not solve the problem, then I will go for a new shock.Last edited by talltigeguy; 07-12-2007, 04:44 PM.Be excellent to one another.Comment
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That's a good actuator but it is touchy when the shock is gone, i know cause i have the same one and i replaced mine due to going with discs. Anyway call UFP @ (800) 854-1905. They are great people and worked with me when mine had issues, i believe the guy i talked to was Mike but just ask for support."Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!Comment
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This is my first trailer with brakes so I dont know all the symptoms they will exhibit. Air is compressible, and this would reduce the force applied to the caliper pistons which would result in less stopping power. So I dont know how air in the lines would cause the brakes to lock up
Now being able to push the actuator in by hand is either caused by air in the system or a bad actuator or even excessive clearance between the pads and the rotor caused by run-out pushing back the pads. These all cause a spongy pedal in automotive brake systems.
I would also look at such things as loose bearings on the brake axle, binding caliper slides or pads, or excessive rotor run-out.
Too high of tire pressure.
Just my
from and old mo-canik
Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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We have an SBT trailer and after about 15 tows it was metal to metal on the right brake and pretty well worn out pads on the left brake. Have only brakes on front axel of tandem trailer with a 24v boat. Took it in to Extreme in Riverside and they said that because of the weight of the boat they recommend both axels to have brakes and that is what they do for the 24 ft tige. Has anyone worn out the brakes that fast? For those with a 24 ft boat do you have both axels with brakes or just one axel with brakes? Previous trailer I had for 20 years (trail rite) and it still had original brakes.Comment
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I only have one axel with breaks. Disk brakes that is.....
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Who makes your trailer?Originally posted by da.bell View PostI only have one axel with breaks. Disk brakes that is.....Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute, and it seems like an hour. Sit with a pretty girl for an hour, and it seems like a minute. THAT'S relativity. Albert EinsteinComment
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Originally posted by gman View Post
That's kinda funny because that trailer would have been ordered, and fitted out for the 24' and you cant fit a 24' on a trailer for a 22
Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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