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    #16
    Originally posted by evil0ne View Post
    Anything to be concerned about splicing into the wires? I looked too and wondered why they just had the three wires instead of the normal plug. It seems the circuitry is not protected from water. I know they are "trailer" lights but I was worried they were meant for ATV trailers instead of boat trailers that get dunked.

    To splice properly, you need to get the Heat-Shrink-Crimp-type butt connectors with the adhesive gel, or Heat-Shrink tubing with adhesive gel.

    When you heat these up they shrink down, forcing the adhesive gel out the ends. when it cools, the gel hardens and seals the splice. If done right, these are stronger than the original wire.
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      #17
      Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post

      Evil one,

      That is a good question. I can't help but think that even with the plug in type, that water gets in there too. Maybe some electrical genius can let me know why this never seems to be a problem. As most of us have done on those shallow ramps (Echo bay right now) I have had even the bumper of the tow vehicle under water and never have a problem.
      Just about car/truck manf. uses a Waether-Pak style sealed connector on every exterior plug. They have a seal for each wire coming into the plug and a seal on either the mail or female part that keeps water out when the to halves are snapped together
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        #18
        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
        To splice properly, you need to get the Heat-Shrink-Crimp-type butt connectors with the adhesive gel, or Heat-Shrink tubing with adhesive gel.

        When you heat these up they shrink down, forcing the adhesive gel out the ends. when it cools, the gel hardens and seals the splice. If done right, these are stronger than the original wire.
        And to think I would have used one of these:

        "a what? i can['t] say/spell/pronounce that word..." - wannabewakeboarder
        "the plural of boo is booze."

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          #19
          Originally posted by evil0ne View Post
          And to think I would have used one of these:

          Those work fine, if you don't mind cleaning off the green fuzzy "chia pet" looking glob of corrosion that grows in about 6 months
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #20
            Mr. Thrill,

            I have the 5 flat connector that then goes to an adaptor that connects it to the 7 round on my tow vehicle. I am pretty sure that none of that is water tight, definitely not at the 5 flat side.

            Maybe I will be the first to post my experience with just a simple splice job.

            Moki, did you do the super fancy waterproof splice job?

            Evil one and I do not have to worry about the crusties getting on ours because it dries in the 110 degree heat before the corrosion can take place.
            Be excellent to one another.

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              #21
              I have a flat five to 7 round as well and it definately gets water inside. When i spliced mine i slipped on some heat shrink, spliced with a naked butt connector (no plastic housing), smeared silicon all around it and then heated the shrink until the silicon oozed out. Works the same as the adhesive units.
              "Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!

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                #22
                Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                Mr. Thrill,

                I have the 5 flat connector that then goes to an adaptor that connects it to the 7 round on my tow vehicle. I am pretty sure that none of that is water tight, definitely not at the 5 flat side.

                Maybe I will be the first to post my experience with just a simple splice job.

                Moki, did you do the super fancy waterproof splice job?

                Evil one and I do not have to worry about the crusties getting on ours because it dries in the 110 degree heat before the corrosion can take place.
                Tall, do I remember right that you drive an Escalade (or other GM) if so, the factory wiring will be a Weather-pak connector. And if the tow harness if factory "tow pkg" it should also. If not, trade out fot one that is as it can short out the vehicles lights, probably not in your climate, but maybe.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #23
                  The LED lights that I bought used the same plug as the original lights, so I did not do any splicing, I just plugged them in. However, my trailer uses the same connectors that Evil0ne has in his reply. No corrosion.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                    Tall, do I remember right that you drive an Escalade (or other GM) if so, the factory wiring will be a Weather-pak connector. And if the tow harness if factory "tow pkg" it should also. If not, trade out fot one that is as it can short out the vehicles lights, probably not in your climate, but maybe.
                    I drive an Excursion. I still can't forgive GM for the 1999 Suburban I used to have. My therapist keeps telling me to let go of the negative emotions...
                    Be excellent to one another.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                      I drive an Excursion. I still can't forgive GM for the 1999 Suburban I used to have. My therapist keeps telling me to let go of the negative emotions...
                      I knew it started with an "E" anyway, that's ok, I wont hold that against (driving a ford) we're still friends
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                        #26
                        I like the new avatar, chpthrill. The lights should be here soon. I will see what I decide to do. If I can find some heat shrink easily, will do it.

                        I noticed yesterday that when my wife backed the trailer down, the brake lights did not work. The light up high comes on, but not the right or left brake light. After we got home and detached the boat, I checked it again, and they work fine. I think that can be explained by my trailer lights going out, can it? Should I consider some sort of intermittent tow vehicle short?
                        Be excellent to one another.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                          I like the new avatar, chpthrill. The lights should be here soon. I will see what I decide to do. If I can find some heat shrink easily, will do it.

                          I noticed yesterday that when my wife backed the trailer down, the brake lights did not work. The light up high comes on, but not the right or left brake light. After we got home and detached the boat, I checked it again, and they work fine. I think that can be explained by my trailer lights going out, can it? Should I consider some sort of intermittent tow vehicle short?
                          Sound like a short in the "T" connector.
                          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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