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    #16
    I would bypass as much of the integrated RR electics as possible. Most of the newer vehicles use ground sensing over resistance to know when to trigger. Bypassing all of that is nice for the owner (you wont have to buy schematics and such) when it is possible. What's I would guess is that Range Rover uses a similar system and the addition of the trailer lights to the common ground for the lighting board is creating enough load on the ground to make the lighting board think the switch is engaged. What happens if you let the trailer lights ground through the ball/frame and remove it (ground) from the harness? Might try it with a test light to see. This may work as the overall load on the common ground to the lighting board will not be increased, but there will be enough current to power the lights, as that is the current wire being used. Of course this all hinges on RRs setup of lighting. They may be using some super secret squirrel stuff I have never seen.

    The last vehicle I looked at with this type of system used a CG for all blinkers, headlights, foglights, interior dome, door locks, and window circuits. A sense on the circuit board worked kind of like binary math to let the conrtol unit know where to send power. So let's say the driver window up was 330ohms, then the circuit knew to roll the window up. 800 was fog lights, so a total of 1130 let the circuit know to roll up the window and turn on the fog lights. It really sucked for aftermarket integration, but I can see where a modular system like this makes it very easy for the manufacturer to reduce cost, and make maintenance much easier.

    Be lucky its a range rover. I hear the new Infinitys and Lexus have fiber for comms. That would really suck, as there is now way to tap a fiber for a signal.
    Last edited by spharis; 03-23-2007, 06:52 PM.
    http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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      #17
      Originally posted by spharis View Post
      I would bypass as much of the integrated RR electics as possible. Most of the newer vehicles use ground sensing over resistance to know when to trigger. Bypassing all of that is nice for the owner (you wont have to buy schematics and such) when it is possible. What's I would guess is that Range Rover uses a similar system and the addition of the trailer lights to the common ground for the lighting board is creating enough load on the ground to make the lighting board think the switch is engaged. What happens if you let the trailer lights ground through the ball/frame and remove it (ground) from the harness? Might try it with a test light to see. This may work as the overall load on the common ground to the lighting board will not be increased, but there will be enough current to power the lights, as that is the current wire being used. Of course this all hinges on RRs setup of lighting. They may be using some super secret squirrel stuff I have never seen.

      The last vehicle I looked at with this type of system used a CG for all blinkers, headlights, foglights, interior dome, door locks, and window circuits. A sense on the circuit board worked kind of like binary math to let the conrtol unit know where to send power. So let's say the driver window up was 330ohms, then the circuit knew to roll the window up. 800 was fog lights, so a total of 1130 let the circuit know to roll up the window and turn on the fog lights. It really sucked for aftermarket integration, but I can see where a modular system like this makes it very easy for the manufacturer to reduce cost, and make maintenance much easier.

      Be lucky its a range rover. I hear the new Infinitys and Lexus have fiber for comms. That would really suck, as there is now way to tap a fiber for a signal.

      Amazing wealth of electrical knowledge.

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        #18
        I was looking at some schematics. What year model RR do you have? Also, have you connected any other trailers to the harness, maybe some with less lighting? And when you say it is the Euro style, are you in Europe, or what style plug does your RR have? The 7pin Euro, and the 7 pin US are not the same; and Land Rover should have installed the US 7 pin conversion kit. Your boat probably has a 7pin US. Do you have electric brakes?


        ****edit*****
        OK after looking at this, I think you are having an issue with improper wiring. Here are two pics of how the wiring is on Euro and US 7 pins.

        Maybe they wired in the right connector, but did it Euro spec.....i don't know. Can you give more specifics about your vehicle, like where it is physically, and what year, etc. The trailer too. Note that the connections on these look really different. This is just the pinout differences. I think the Euros have actual pins, the US has flat tangs. You could get someone to brake, blink, and reverse, and compare the vehicle plug with the below if you have a multimeter. Use your hitch for the ground.

        European 7pin


        Euro 7pin trailer side....version B


        Common US; most of us use the center pin for reverse lockout solenoids.
        Last edited by spharis; 03-23-2007, 07:53 PM.
        http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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          #19
          Originally posted by spharis View Post
          The 7pin Euro, and the 7 pin US are not the same; and Land Rover should have installed the US 7 pin conversion kit. Your boat probably has a 7pin US. Do you have electric brakes?


          ****edit*****
          OK after looking at this, I think you are having an issue with improper wiring. Here are two pics of how the wiring is on Euro and US 7 pins.

          Fantastic reasoning (but I wasn't sure about this). If the boat shipped on a US trailer the wiring could be all "buggered" up and could actually be a pretty easy fix.
          "a what? i can['t] say/spell/pronounce that word..." - wannabewakeboarder
          "the plural of boo is booze."

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            #20
            light converter

            they make a light converter that you can install on your range rover that will stop that from happening. you can pick it up at the local auto store. try it you never know let me know if it works

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              #21
              I've found a solution (I hope)

              http://www.labtronx.com.au/index.html

              Thanks for the help everybody.

              Nick

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by OIT View Post
                they make a light converter that you can install on your range rover that will stop that from happening. you can pick it up at the local auto store. try it you never know let me know if it works
                Those plug in adaters only work on the 4 pin conversions. The 7 pins are much more complicated and involve the removal of rear compartments, and wiring mods.
                http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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                  #23
                  Originally posted by njbeecroft View Post
                  I've found a solution (I hope)

                  http://www.labtronx.com.au/index.html

                  Thanks for the help everybody.

                  Nick
                  You can buy inline resistors to do the same thing without having to mess with the buttons. These would be wired on the trailer lighting as a permanent fix.


                  LOAD RESISTOR KITS

                  One LOAD Resistor is required for each turn signal bulb

                  6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing or burnt out bulb indications. Resistor measures 1.96L x .64W x .60H inches, leads are 12 inches long.
                  Kit Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

                  CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS: Using included splice taps, connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the turn/brake hot wire. Splice taps allow for installation without cutting your turn signal wires.

                  We also offer 25 Ohm, 25 Watt Load Resistor kits which can be used with LED side marker lights (194/168 type) to prevent bulb-out indicators from turning on.
                  http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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                    #24
                    That sounds like a very simple solution. I'm not that technically minded, are you saying that you have read the Labtronx stuff and your simple solution does the same thing? If so were can I get the parts you describe?

                    Nick

                    More info as requested previously. The Range Rover Sport HSE is UK spec and is approx 8 months old, I live in the UK. The trailer is a Dorsey(?) trailer that came with my new Tige 20i which I took delivery of in January this year.

                    Hope that helps.
                    Last edited by njbeecroft; 03-25-2007, 04:23 PM.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by OIT View Post
                      they make a light converter that you can install on your range rover that will stop that from happening. you can pick it up at the local auto store. try it you never know let me know if it works
                      Any more info?

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Those plug in converters will not work on a 7 pin. You can buy a wired in adapter from Range Rover or a supplier for about $200. I think a better option would be to buy the resistors and wire them to the LED tails. You wouldn't have to mod your vehicle that way, and only the trailer. It also will not affect other vehicles when they pull it either.

                        http://www.superbrightleds.com you can find them there.

                        The REAL range rover EU/US adapter instructions are here. You will still need to address the load sensed by the ECU that is making the lights flash.
                        http://www.rangerovers.net/outfittin...m/harness.html
                        http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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                          #27
                          http://www.superbrightleds.com you can find them there.

                          The REAL range rover EU/US adapter instructions are here. You will still need to address the load sensed by the ECU that is making the lights flash.[/COLOR]http://www.rangerovers.net/outfittin...m/harness.html[/QUOTE]


                          Apologies for being a bit slow, will I need to do this:-

                          "You will still need to address the load sensed by the ECU that is making the lights flash" as well as fitting the resistors to the trailer?

                          Cheers

                          Nick

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                            #28
                            yes. I don't think fitting the range rover adapter will help the blinking issue. That is tied to range rover's load sensing to detect burned bulbs, and blinker activation. I had touched on this in an earlier post. So even if you add the $200 range rover harnesses and adapters, you are still going to need to get the load on the trailer LEDs to match that of a bulb by adding the resistor packs.
                            http://www.wakeboatworld.com
                            []) [] []V[] [])

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by spharis View Post
                              yes. I don't think fitting the range rover adapter will help the blinking issue. That is tied to range rover's load sensing to detect burned bulbs, and blinker activation. I had touched on this in an earlier post. So even if you add the $200 range rover harnesses and adapters, you are still going to need to get the load on the trailer LEDs to match that of a bulb by adding the resistor packs.
                              So easiest solution is to forget adaptors and harnesses and fit the resistor packs and problem should be solved?

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                                #30
                                If that is what is happening, yes. From what you posted, and what I can gather, that should be it. You could also switch to standard filiment trailer lights.
                                http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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