Help, where do I start?

[IDBoating]

Ahhhh... much better. When boatwakes speaks, everyone else listens! I was wondering about valves too (since they affect compression) but I am definitely not an engine expert.

This is awesome news for you, sebenfitty. Please keep us posted on how it goes. And thank you again to boatwakes for always being willing to share his amazing knowledge with us here.

[TeamAllen]

This one? Post #13
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...knocking-sound

[NICKYPOO]

Yup, always a good idea to wait for boatwakes’ advice.

[sebenfitty]

Thanks a lot boatwakes. I’ll keep everyone posted.

[sebenfitty]

Great write up boatwakes.
So you’re saying for sure just go ahead and buy new manifolds?

[sebenfitty]

Could only get to the exhaust today. Getting set up and dealing with a wicked t-storm set me back.
Risers are nasty. Only saw signs of water on one cylinder.







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[boatwakes]

Sebenfifty, your call on all but new manifolds keep an old problem from becoming new again. Manifolds and risers are a maintenance item with a lifespan, usually 3-5 years. We do mostly salt water stuff and see things no engine should ever have to live through related to lack of maintenance. Gaskets, metal porosity and just plain corrosion are all concerns with old original parts. Use OEM for consistent quality. We just replaced twin engines because the owner installed GLM manifolds and risers. The metal porosity was so terrible, when the exhaust would heat up to operating temperature, water would pass through the casting into the exhaust manifolds and then the exhaust ports of the cylinder head. Total run time was 2.2 hours before the engines were destroyed. Have a good machine shop do the valve job with bronze guides and new exhaust seats or the same problem could happen again. Don't skimp out on the head work, its extremely important to have it done correctly, I.E. marine specifications.

[sebenfitty]

Thanks boatwakes.
Definitely following your suggestions.
Should be placing my order tonight for manifolds, risers and all my gaskets and hardware to rebuild after the tear down.
Definitely don’t want to do this again any time soon.
I’ll be dropping heads off at a machine shop next week. Hopefully find no surprises when I get them off.


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[boatwakes]

Here's the head set you'll need:
Fel-Pro Performance Marine Head Set Gaskets 17232. Comes with more than you need but is less expensive than buying individually.

Head bolts: Jegs has these store brand which work fine: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/8340...CABEgK46fD_BwE

Thread sealant for head bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-5921...000AAJTYS?th=1

Gasket maker for intake manifold ends: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2522...e%2C196&sr=1-8

Also purchase a 1/2" X 14 tap and t handle to chase the head bolt holes in the block and a 6 pack of brake cleaner, paper towels, a 100 pack of single edge razor blades and beer. FYI, you will need a DTC computer to put the engine in base timing mode after rebuild to set initial timing on the engine. Post a photograph of the diagnostics connection so I can see what Generation your EFI is. I may have the base timing connection end and will send it out to you if its the correct one.

[sebenfitty]

You're awesome boatwakes.
Took heads to a shop and had them reworked/resurfaced. Had a stuck valve and a bent pushrod.

Got all new manifolds/risers. New Fel-pro head bolts I ordered had sealant already on them.

Tapped out all the head bolt threads before reinstalling. Really good suggestion. This was definitely needed. A lot of junk in those threads.

I ordered a Mefi Proscan kit from CBM motorsports for $125 so I can ensure a good base timing and clear all of my codes. It's a Mefi 4

Engine is about 90% back together. Before I finished getting the manifolds bolted back up I wanted to get my engine realignment done. Easier to get to everything.
I replaced my cutlass bearings last season. When I bolted the shaft back up it was a bit off. I guess the old ones had been worn enough that it wasn't noticeable. The new ones had a bit of a whine.
The realignment was a new can of worms. All of my mounts were seized up. Had to pull them all and clean them up. One was so bad that I broke one of the mounts during the process, so a new one is on the way. Pretty sure the engine was pulled before by someone pretty lazy. There were many missing nuts/bolts in the mounts and block. So I'm glad I decided to go through all of them. Everything is going back together with plenty of antiseize.
Boat is filthy as hell.

Hopefully be posting a startup video Wednesday or Thursday.

Thanks everyone for your help and input. This site has been a huge help.

[boatwakes]

Are you clear with performing the valve lash adjustment?

[sebenfitty]

Are you clear with performing the valve lash adjustment?

My dad took care of that. He’s been turning wrenches all his life. Rebuilt a lot of engines. He’s the reason I was comfortable buying a used boat I would probably have to do some work on. He’s pretty handy.
I grew up learning to DIY everything.


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[sebenfitty]

“ FYI, you will need a DTC computer to put the engine in base timing mode after rebuild to set initial timing on the engine. Post a photograph of the diagnostics connection so I can see what Generation your EFI is. I may have the base timing connection end and will send it out to you if its the correct one.[/QUOTE]

Can I ask how you go about setting the base timing? One video I found based it off cam retard being adjusted to zero. Is this your method?
As soon as my trans mount comes in today she’s getting bolted back up. Spend the day cleaning tomorrow.


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[lee]

“ FYI, you will need a DTC computer to put the engine in base timing mode after rebuild to set initial timing on the engine. Post a photograph of the diagnostics connection so I can see what Generation your EFI is. I may have the base timing connection end and will send it out to you if its the correct one.

Can I ask how you go about setting the base timing? One video I found based it off cam retard being adjusted to zero. Is this your method?
As soon as my trans mount comes in today she’s getting bolted back up. Spend the day cleaning tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

You have to do it with a computer and software.

[sebenfitty]

You have to do it with a computer and software.[/QUOTE]

I’ve got the computer and software. Was asking the method of adjustment and parameters.