Help, where do I start?

[lee]

With Diacom there is a tab to set TDC.

[sebenfitty]

this just seems pretty crazy

[sebenfitty]

Started up great. Sounds great, but still have ongoing TAC codes. In limp mode. Guess the TAC module is next.
Would the TAC module being bad cause the tachometer to alarm also? When I tried to start the first time when this all started, my tach started alarming as soon as I turned the key, and I’m getting ##### on the readout. Just curious if they have anything to do with the other or if I’m also going to need a new gauge. The tach is still reading on perfect pass.

[sebenfitty]

She’s running and throttle works now. TAC module was bad. Thanks everyone for your help, especially boatwakes. Asked so many questions everyone started ignoring me. Sorry about that.
Now just need to send tach gauge in for repair and get this interior replaced.


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[boatwakes]

Before you go bombing around the lake, those stupid distributors need to be in "approximate" time mechanically. Even though its running at low rpm if you rev it above 2400-2700 and it falls on its face, the distributor needs adjustment one way or another. Easiest way to do it is with a timing gun and raise the rpm to 3000 and check timing. If its no greater than 34* and no less than 24* the distributor is in mechanical time and the computer is making up the timing curve per demand. If it's outside those parameters, adjust accordingly. Sometimes you may have to pull it back out and adjust it 1 tooth either direction to get it right.

[sebenfitty]

Before you go bombing around the lake, those stupid distributors need to be in "approximate" time mechanically. Even though its running at low rpm if you rev it above 2400-2700 and it falls on its face, the distributor needs adjustment one way or another. Easiest way to do it is with a timing gun and raise the rpm to 3000 and check timing. If its no greater than 34* and no less than 24* the distributor is in mechanical time and the computer is making up the timing curve per demand. If it's outside those parameters, adjust accordingly. Sometimes you may have to pull it back out and adjust it 1 tooth either direction to get it right.

I was planning on monitoring on the laptop on our first trip. What should I watch for?

I ran it just over 1000 and watched the cam retard. Stayed at zero. Is that where I want it?


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[sebenfitty]

Dropped it in the water to go check the timing. Back to having the TAC malfunction. Guess that’s another $200 part that didn’t fix anything.


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[boatwakes]

Hey buddy, don't watch the cam retard, just watch the actual timing light on the mark of the harmonic balancer. The computer adjusts timing through the rpm range BUT the mechanical timing has to be within about a 12* window. If your total timing at 3000rpm isn't around 32* the distributor will either need to be advanced or retarded 1 gear tooth to correct it. Doesn't need to be in the lake to do it either, just use a fake a lake and rev it in neutral.

[sebenfitty]

I’m not even able to use the throttle at the moment. Have the TAC malfunction.
Question about that. When you replace a part in the throttle sequence, a tps or the TAC module, does the ecm have to be reflashed, or the tps/TAC module reset or synced up?
I replaced the potentiometer and the TAC module. Only thing left is tps on the throttle body.
I’m dropping it off at the dealership in the morning to have them look at it. Just don’t want to keep buying parts.

[sebenfitty]

So, the deal with the throttle issue....
My boat has the pcm330 as opposed to the marine power, and the same wiring harness is used on both. My tps is located on the engine. From what I'm seeing the Marine power tps is located behind the shifter panel? Wiring is a little different. This means extra wires on the engine not getting used, even though they are there and have plugs that go together. When all of this crap started, I vaguely remember discovering these wires that looked like they needed to be plugged in, and did so. This caused voltage issues I'm guessing, not letting the throttle system run correctly. Cost me a few hours of labor for the tech at the dealership to figure this out. Plus $400 in unneeded parts.

Tachometer is still alarming and is unplugged until I get the gauge fixed, but we're back on the water. The smell of the new paint and other things burning on the first day out was a little nerve wracking, but all is well and we spent three days on the water last weekend slowly breaking her in.

Appreciate all the help guys. This forum is the bomb.