Sub upgrade suggestions R23

[Sublimer23]

I've been slowing adding to my stereo in my 18' R23. I have replaced the inboats and factory sub amp with a non-DSP amp. I have 4 Rev 10s powered by a new SD2 amp also non DSP. Now I want to upgrade the sub. What are your suggestions? Would it be more cost effective to add a sub or replace the existing one? Any insight is appreciated!

[sandm]

sure chp will chime in but here's my .02 fwiw....

last 2 boats I used a jl audio 12w6 sub. 1 boat on a fosgate amp and 1 boat on an arc audio amp. both feeding around 1000 watts. that sub did a great job for me. both boats were in boxes under the helm. first boat was easy peasey to install. the tige 22ve I had to move the medallion panel up about 3 inches to get the box to fit. both boats had factory heaters installed. still had plenty of legroom and in the last tige the top of the sub box was about 6" deep and made a great footrest.

current z3 has the factory free air sub under the helm(not sure how or what it's wired to yet) and under the observers area there's a huge-*** vented box housing a jl 13w7. there's a vent integrated under the observers seat. this sub absolutely pounds and will shake the water around the boat but it's stupid-big and lost too much storage. my plan was to move it to a box under the helm and ditch the factory free air but time hasn't found me working on the boat yet.

that said I would replace the factory free air with a quality sealed/ported box. I like the location under the helm. not sure if you want to be the loudest at the sandbar or just an overall solid system. loudest at the sandbar, put in a replacement under the helm and another in the observers spot. solid system, replace just the factory unit.

lots of guys will say wetsounds but I prefer JL for subs. wetsounds is good. JL's rep was built on subs and imo they are one of the best out there.

[chpthril]

I have replaced the inboats and factory sub amp with a non-DSP amp.

What amp did you move to? This will narrow your choices.

Would it be more cost effective to add a sub or replace the existing one?

Upgrading to the Revo-12FA is the most cost effective and least time consuming, with great results. A Revo-12HP with a ported enclosure under the helm is a greater payoff, but a larger investment in both $$$ and time.

You could leave the factory setup as is, and install something like the Wet Sounds Revo-12 PSE or the Roswell ported marine enclosure and Revo-12HP (or the round 12" of your choice) in the port locker. This would require a dedicated woofer amp and I would suggest venting the locker.

[Sublimer23]

Thanks for the input guys. The amp powering the inboats and sub is still a htx6 just non dsp. So it will need upgraded if I replace the factory. I like the idea of just adding a revo 12FA. Has anyone added a free air sub to the trash carpartment area? I'd like to keep the storage area under the glove box. It's about the only storage that boat has when ballast is full. Ive got pretty reasonable expectations just looking for bass to keep up with the revs up top. nothing more.

[chpthril]

With an HTX-6, here is what I would do. Leave the HTX-6 for the in-boats, and install an HTX-1 (or similar mono) for the Revo-12FA S2. Id enlarge the existing 10FA hole, making sure there is a LARGE open cavity behind the woofer. This is a 600W rms setup.

[Bamer]

Sub upgrade suggestions R23

Has anyone added a free air sub to the trash carpartment area?.

Yes, someone on here did it. I’ll look for the thread. IIRC, they were pleased with the results. You will lose the trash can storage.....


Edit: found it


Z3 Sub
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

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[Sublimer23]

Yes, someone on here did it. I’ll look for the thread. IIRC, they were pleased with the results. You will lose the trash can storage.....


Edit: found it


Z3 Sub
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

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That turned out great! It would be a hard sell though loosing the garbage. Also those two cup holders just turned in to beer flattening stations. I wonder if you did a free air sub instead of a box under there if you could keep the can?

[Sublimer23]

With an HTX-6, here is what I would do. Leave the HTX-6 for the in-boats, and install an HTX-1 (or similar mono) for the Revo-12FA S2. Id enlarge the existing 10FA hole, making sure there is a LARGE open cavity behind the woofer. This is a 600W rms setup.

This sounds like what I'm after. Would you take the 2 channels that were previously running the sub and run those to the in boats as well in the htx6?

[Ironrequiem]

Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
With an HTX-6, here is what I would do. Leave the HTX-6 for the in-boats, and install an HTX-1 (or similar mono) for the Revo-12FA S2. Id enlarge the existing 10FA hole, making sure there is a LARGE open cavity behind the woofer. This is a 600W rms setup.

I followed Mike's advice on my 2015 R20
This is exactly what I did with my previous 2015 R20, I used a syn 2 at that time dedicated to the 12" only. It was a pretty hefty bass upgrade.
I just opened up the 10"hole in the helm, installed WS 12fa 2 and BOOM BOOM BOOM !!

I did the same with the Z1 I have now as far as the 12" sub, but I haven't changed out the sub amp.
I dont have the control or ability to tune the sub amp that is in the Z1 now.

[Sublimer23]

Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
With an HTX-6, here is what I would do. Leave the HTX-6 for the in-boats, and install an HTX-1 (or similar mono) for the Revo-12FA S2. Id enlarge the existing 10FA hole, making sure there is a LARGE open cavity behind the woofer. This is a 600W rms setup.

I followed Mike's advice on my 2015 R20
This is exactly what I did with my previous 2015 R20, I used a syn 2 at that time dedicated to the 12" only. It was a pretty hefty bass upgrade.
I just opened up the 10"hole in the helm, installed WS 12fa 2 and BOOM BOOM BOOM !!

I did the same with the Z1 I have now as far as the 12" sub, but I haven't changed out the sub amp.
I dont have the control or ability to tune the sub amp that is in the Z1 now.

Nice! Sounds like the solution.

[chpthril]

This sounds like what I'm after. Would you take the 2 channels that were previously running the sub and run those to the in boats as well in the htx6?

Absolutely. I would split the port side and STBD side main cabin pairs and run each of the 6 speakers, all on their own chnls.

[BrentP]

FWIW, I upgraded to a 12” FE sub and I think the bass in the boat is solid. It doesn’t make the water vibrate or anything, but it gets the job done and we still have room to store the 9000 towels my family goes through on a day on the water. *facepalm*

That being said, 2 12 sounds awesome


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[Bamer]

FWIW, I upgraded to a 12” FE sub and I think the bass in the boat is solid. It doesn’t make the water vibrate or anything, but it gets the job done and we still have room to store the 9000 towels my family goes through on a day on the water. *facepalm*

That being said, 2 12 sounds awesome


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What towers and in boats do you have?


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[BrentP]

Wet sounds 6.5” revo 6 all around (6 of them, 1 per channel on an htx6), 2 kicker 9” towers (hlcd), and the sub on bridged htx6


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[Bamer]

For me, most subs can rock, but some will be overwhelmed by the inboats and towers.....

I have 2 Rev10 towers at 300w ea, same inboats as you at 75W ea (I think 75) and the 10” wetsonds free air sub w/ up to 600W depending on what the DSP is tuned to....the amp is 600W, but sub is rated for 300W so I’m sure the sub is only getting closer to 300W with the DSP tune


The sub sounds great, but when I crank the rev10’s, the sub cannot keep up and all most all you here are the rev10’s.....

My question is, does swapping out the 10” FA with the free air 12 powered at the rated 400W enough for a good balance with 1 pair of Rev10’s?



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