Winterization question

[Ruger761]

If you run antifreeze through the motor, you must get the motor hot enough for the thermostat to fully open and circulate antifreeze throughout the system. Best bet is to drain the raw water first, then run antifreeze through fake a lake.


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Correct, takes about 20 minutes or so at an idle on a fake-a-lake to warm it up enough to get it to open up, or at least that was my experience. Then a Y fitting makes it quick to swap over to antifreeze to actually get it into the block.

[TeamAllen]

Stole this from the Mastercraft Forum. Made me think of this thread.

[Bamer]

Stole this from the Mastercraft Forum. Made me think of this thread.

Lol. Those guys were good entertainment, but their relationship was jacked up......


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[BrentB]

I was able to pull the necessary plugs yesterday and drain the water from the raw water portion of the engine and the V drive. Is there a center hull drain plug somewhere on the RZX2? I thought the water in the middle of the boat near the V drove just drained to the back of the boat, but apparently not. I even trailered the boat up a steep hill yesterday to try to get the remaining water out, but was still left with a gallon or two of old stinky water. I had to suck it out with a shop vac. What am I missing here?

[IDBoating]

Our 24Ve works the same way with respect to bilge water. No hill is steep enough to drain the Convex V hull out the back drain, and ours doesn't have center drain plug either. We use the shop vac method you described.

[JohnnieMo]

I just use a floor jack under one of the cross members. I jack it up until the prop guard hits the ground. That usually drains most of the water. A little bit in there won't hurt.