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    #16
    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
    Are you running aftermarket rectangle PnP sacs in the back locker?
    No, I just have the stock ballast. What are these bags you speak of?

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      #17
      Originally posted by Sublimer23 View Post
      No, I just have the stock ballast. What are these bags you speak of?
      Ok, I dont think the Z3/R23 models technically have PnP sacs, just above floor factory sacs. IIRC, they are about 1100 each. In the prior models that had what tige called Pro/Surf ballast, we offered a custom 1300+ lbs sac. This may get you more water weight, less lead weight to carry around when not needed.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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        #18
        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
        Ok, I dont think the Z3/R23 models technically have PnP sacs, just above floor factory sacs. IIRC, they are about 1100 each. In the prior models that had what tige called Pro/Surf ballast, we offered a custom 1300+ lbs sac. This may get you more water weight, less lead weight to carry around when not needed.
        I think the stock surf XL ballast is theoretically 1200 in both rears and 600 total up front for 3000. When the rears are full and plugged there's not much room left. I wish there was the ability to put a pnp rear sack behind the lockers in that big void where the batteries are.

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          #19
          Do it. I’ve convinced every tige owner on my lake that GSA is better than taps 3.

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            #20
            Just upgrade to a 2020!

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              #21
              Originally posted by MikeB313 View Post
              Just upgrade to a 2020!
              No way! I think I just got all the new boat bugs worked out of my '18. Knock on wood. .Not interested in starting over.

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                #22
                Originally posted by UNSTUCK View Post
                Instead of doing the fiberglass work, I built a cover plate the same shape as the actuator mount. I then sealed it and screwed it to the transom using the original screw holes. This made it possible to return to stock if I ever need to. I used polished SS, so it stands out against my black gel coat. I could have easily painted it black and no one would ever know it's there.
                Can you post a few pictures of the plates and the plugs you made. I would like to see how it looks?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  #23
                  It’s just a simple plate to cover the original holes. Kind of wish I would have painted it or powder coated it black now.

                  6AB68D03-87EE-40E6-8BE2-2B2C864722A4.jpg

                  A856E8C7-01E6-4A30-8423-E2ED76239EA8.jpg

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                    #24
                    Unstuck did the plates mount in the old taps plate attachment holes or did you silicone and re drill for the gsa plates?

                    Did gsa provide you the new location for the lencos to attach?

                    What adjustments did you make to the touch system in terms of the taps settings in the dealer access menu?

                    Thanks


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      #25
                      Ill chime in. The gsa tabs come with a hinge system but unfortunately it is not the same hole pattern as taps 3. So rather than drilling and filling new holes, making a custom stainless bracket hinge system to match up with the taps 3 holes has been the best option. You must move the lenco actuators but there is no set position, it's all about getting the correct orientation up and down. No adjustments were needed on the touchscreen, essentially all tt does is tell the actuator where to be(1-15).

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by robricketts View Post
                        Unstuck did the plates mount in the old taps plate attachment holes or did you silicone and re drill for the gsa plates?

                        Did gsa provide you the new location for the lencos to attach?

                        What adjustments did you make to the touch system in terms of the taps settings in the dealer access menu?

                        Thanks


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        My "GSA" tabs are homemade so I had the luxury of being able to do what I wanted for an exact, but simple fit. The real GSA tabs are kind of generic and I think really meant to go on an older boat as kind of a clean slate. That way GSA just needs to drill new holes and doesn't have to worry about old holes. So yes, I built my hinges to attach using the original TAPS3 screw holes. My goal was to be able to keep it simple and to easily return it to stock if need be.

                        There is no set location as to where to mount the actuators. I built my tabs with adjustability on the mount. The transom mount is just where ever it needs to be to get the tab up high when stowed and to prevent binding throughout the actuator travel. Watch GSA's installation videos and you'll get a good idea of where they need to mount on the transom. I think mine ended up just a bit lower than their normal position.

                        No adjustments are needed on the touch screen. It doesn't care what the actuator is doing or pushing/pulling on. My whole family rides goofy side so I could use the other sides actuator to raise a surfer down flag if I wanted to. Once installed and running, you will likely see that your dialed in numbers are just a bit different than what they were with TAPS3 though. My goofy side likes surf at 2 and the regular side at 3. No big deal.

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