2013 r20 with PCM 343 turns over but wont start

[curtish]

Hi,

I have been troubleshooting this for 2 days and looking for advice. The boat wont start but turns over. I cleaned the distributor, put in new plugs and have spark. I checked the fuel and have fuel pressure (not with a gauge though). I have checked the ground wire. I have also moved fuel to a new temp tank.

I was told to check my cam sensor, but cannot figure that out. The tach does not move when cranking but not sure it ever does low RPM.

Appreciate the help.
Curtis in Austin

[curtish]

Oh - the low pressure pump does seem to prime when i turn the key one click. I suspect it is fuel delivery but cannot figure it out. I have not inspect or changed the high pressure filter

[curtish]

Quick update. Changed FCC filter. High pressure pump seems to work, getting power and turns on. Still not firing

[Brianrzr]

Squirt a little gas in the intake, if it even sputters, it’s a fuel delivery problem.

[curtish]

Thank you Brian....I get an occassional sputter, but thats it. and not much of one. Is there anything else controlling the fuel delivery after the FCC that I can test?

Quick update.. throttle butterfly is not moving at all, so focusing on that for now, starting with relays

[KoolAid]

The monovalve I don't believe will move unless the engine is running.

Check the crank position sensor. Port side, near flywheel, under the exhaust manifold. Check its connection. Be sure its not corroded. Check the wires going back to the rest of the harness.

Slight spray of starter fluid should make it start for a moment if timing is correct. Use very little ether if you are going to test this method.
Engine will still spark when crank position sensor is out, it will just be way out of time.

[boatwakes]

The monovalve I don't believe will move unless the engine is running.

Check the crank position sensor. Port side, near flywheel, under the exhaust manifold. Check its connection. Be sure its not corroded. Check the wires going back to the rest of the harness.

Slight spray of starter fluid should make it start for a moment if timing is correct. Use very little ether if you are going to test this method.
Engine will still spark when crank position sensor is out, it will just be way out of time.

Spark may be there but weak. I would start with crank position sensor too. The cam sensor is not connected on those engines but when a cam sensor is used they're plugged into the distributor on the side. There should be an open plug there now.

Its okay to use an automotive sensor, here's the link:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...e+sensor&pos=3

[curtish]

Thank you both...will check it today. Can a continuity test or ohm meter test if ok?

current status is engine sputters but wont start

[curtish]

If the knock sensor is the cam sensor it does appear corroded. I cannot get the plug off so have not removed it. (See pic)Should I use a socket to remove it?


The only other sensor I can see is the neutral sensor (I think at the top of the transmission). BTW - There is a 4 prong plug on the side of the distributor - responding to the thread above

[curtish]

7C6A0F5F-1D76-4C03-93A0-8A9A7B6150A8.jpg

[KoolAid]

That is one of the two knock sensors. Not worried about it at the moment. You can unplug it if your worried its causing an issue.

Crank sensor is in a different location. Cam sensor I want to say is on the intake manifold at the back of the engine. I don't really recall. It most likely is not used on your powerplant.
crank sensor.jpg
Rusty engine but the best picture I could find to show you were its at.

[curtish]

Aargh.....replaced crank sensor but still sputtering. Fuel pressure at 58 so not that either.

Other ideas? About to tow to the ramp and shop....bummer

[jlavalley]

Have you checked for injector pulse ?? also check all fuses and ground wires

[curtish]

can you post the best thread for how to check the injectors? I tightened the ground but maybe more I can do there? Thank you for the help...

[jlavalley]

can you post the best thread for how to check the injectors? I tightened the ground but maybe more I can do there? Thank you for the help...

unplug one injector see if you have constant power to one wire and the other wire should flash ground on and off while cranking a noid light is the best way to check but can be done with a test light a quick google search you should be able to find videos