You Do It Yourselfers, Whats the easiest way to drain the oil on the Raptor motor? Previously I pulled the oil drain hose through the plug hole in the back and waited for gravity to drain it. Had that been my only method I would still be waiting for it all to drain. Luckily my neighbor at the time had a oil extractor that I attached to the hose and was able to suck it all out. He's gone now and so is his extractor. I have a hand oil pump but it didn't work very well last I tried. How do you do it? What's the trick?
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
Buy your own extractor. ~$80 shipped from Amazon, eBay, or many other sources. Makes oil changes almost fun and 100% less messy. Your local hardware store will have the fittings necessary to connect the extractor's hose to the threaded connector on your engine's drain hose. You can also use the extractor to drain the fluid from your transmission, which you should change every 50-100 hours if you're running heavy ballast.
EDIT: Here's the Amazon link. Under $70 shipped. I'm not favoring Amazon, you can also get it from lots of other places.Last edited by IDBoating; 07-15-2019, 06:24 PM.
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Definitely use an extractor...I have a small medical suction device that I use. Runs on 110, increase or decrease suction strength and has a reservoir the oils are contained into.
It made it SO MUCH EASIER to change engine oil, trans fluid and gear oil.
Also used it on Chevy Tahoe to change oil trans fluid and rear end gear oils with minimal / no mess or clean up.
I did read a suggestion to warm the engine oil to make it faster to remove. We live close to the boat ramp so it was about a 5 minute drive to take the boat off the water and 2 minutes back to the house.
When I hooked everything up the warm oil came out very easy.
Only other suggestion is a long funnel to put the oil back in without making a mess.
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As others have said, just buy the extractor and grab the correct fitting from Home Depot. It has paid for itself many times over. Just used it to swap transmission fluid on my 04 suburban. The extractor and my impact gun are the two tools I can’t believe I didn’t buy sooner. Complete game changers. This is the one I have....
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...SABEgL2dPD_BwEBABz - babzusa.com
Austin, TX
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
Originally posted by Ironrequiem View PostI did read a suggestion to warm the engine oil to make it faster to remove.
Because of the drain hose, our engines also cannot take advantage of those magnet-equipped drain plugs. So draining warmed oil is really the only way to get rid of the finest particles that aren't removed by the filter.
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Originally posted by IDBoating View PostNot only that, but warming the oil also suspends any metal particulates into the fluid so you extract more of them with the oil. Otherwise, metal particles just settle to the bottom... extracting them (or even opening the drain plug) doesn't remove as many... and you just start leaving more and more in your oil pan. Wanna run liquid sandpaper through your engine? Me neither.
Because of the drain hose, our engines also cannot take advantage of those magnet-equipped drain plugs. So draining warmed oil is really the only way to get rid of the finest particles that aren't removed by the filter.
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The oil extractor is the best and for the attachment to the suck out hose on the engine, you'll need a female 1/4"NPT to 3/8"barb adapter. Screw the adapter onto the suck out hose and then use a 6" section of 3/8" hose between the oil extractor tubing and the barb on the adapter. Makes it a snap but the oil filter location sucks...Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...
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