I must not have stated that clearly. I will have a gain control to turn the volume all the way down when I want. I will also have a gain control for the cabin and sub. 3 gain controls and a master vol contol. I will only blast the river when I want.
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on/off for tower speakers?
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Tigé Jedi
- Feb 2004
- 5557
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
Sorry I misunderstood. So you will need separate RCA outs for the 485, the pro 80's, the sub, and the cockpit speakers. Will you just use a splitter to get power to all of those? I have toyed with the idea of an EQ or line driver, are you using one?Be excellent to one another.
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Faders/Potentiometers
These pots do work very well, as Chp, TT and XPJ have mentioned. I installed three of them on my '05 22i last winter - one controls the cabin, one controls the tower and one controls the sub. I thought it would be nice to be able to dial back the cabin speakers in case the passengers didn't want it as loud as the rider. After one season, I must say that the tower and cabin pots have basically been pegged on high 95% of the time. The sub pot was a last minute addition to the schematic, but I'm very glad I put it in, as I use that adjustment very often - I tuned the sub amp so that it can be pegged for almost all Rock, Pop, etc, but needs dialed back for Hip Hop (Nellyville for example) or everything in the boat starts to vibrate and fish start floating.
I went with a different location for the pots than the previous reply - I mounted them to the right of the toggle switches (personal preference). I did have to remove some fiberglass, however. I'm going to attempt to post a picture of the prep and install. If all goes well, I'll include a pic that shows the pots, as well as the sub I installed and the location of my iPod (hard-wired and mounted to the windshield support - accesible by driver and passenger).
Good luck with your install - have fun with it.
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Originally posted by T*These pots do work very well, as Chp, TT and XPJ have mentioned. I installed three of them on my '05 22i last winter - one controls the cabin, one controls the tower and one controls the sub. I thought it would be nice to be able to dial back the cabin speakers in case the passengers didn't want it as loud as the rider. After one season, I must say that the tower and cabin pots have basically been pegged on high 95% of the time. The sub pot was a last minute addition to the schematic, but I'm very glad I put it in, as I use that adjustment very often - I tuned the sub amp so that it can be pegged for almost all Rock, Pop, etc, but needs dialed back for Hip Hop (Nellyville for example) or everything in the boat starts to vibrate and fish start floating.
I went with a different location for the pots than the previous reply - I mounted them to the right of the toggle switches (personal preference). I did have to remove some fiberglass, however. I'm going to attempt to post a picture of the prep and install. If all goes well, I'll include a pic that shows the pots, as well as the sub I installed and the location of my iPod (hard-wired and mounted to the windshield support - accesible by driver and passenger).
Good luck with your install - have fun with it.Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
Winston Churchill
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Thanks for the props on the install - it was a fun project. I installed the amps, the 12" sub (and the 4" next to it - the other 4" is aimed at the driver from the passenger side) in concert w/the pots. The right side of the wheel seemed like an ergonomic placement for the pots, as the stereo remote is on the right side of the helm (I didn't mention, but the stereo remote remains the master volume control for the system).
Initially, I thought I'd have liked to mount the iPod on the right side as well, but couldn't find a good spot for it. Again, after a season of use, the location between the passenger and driver seems to work well - let the passenger F with the iPod while the driver drives (besides, most rely heavily on playlists the pod just runs). I drilled a hole directly below the windshield post into the metal windshield mounting bracket that is just large enough to squeeze the line for the iPod headphone jack through, so when the technology advances past iPods, I won't have to fill a hole in the fiberglass or dash area. This may happen sooner than later, as I may go to a true iPod interface cable to allow the iPod to be accessed via the Clarion head unit and remotes - then the iPod will live in the glove box.
If any other pics would be helpful, let me know and I'll take them. Also, if someone could tell me how to properly post a pic so that it shows up in the body of the post, that would be great!
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For some reason if you attach 1 or 2 photos they show up but when you do more than 3 they don't show up and end up as attachments like yours.
I don't have the know how or time to do this myself. I have done stereo's before but with a new boat I am letting the Pro's handle it. My master vol will also be on a remote directly connected to the HU. I am doing a HU with the IPod controler. That way my I Pod never leaves the glove box and I just can put on a playlist for who ever is riding or my clean mix for when we are hanging out on the beach with the kids.Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
Winston Churchill
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T*,
I agree, nice install. I am going to have to find room on my dash to do this as well. What switches did you use? To get your pics to show up in your message, what I do is:
1. attach images
2. right click on each image, go to properties and copy the url address - "http://......."
3. Then copy the url address between these two tags where you want your image to display "[IMG]" "[/IMG]" (don't use quotes in message).
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Tigé Jedi
- Feb 2004
- 5557
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
Coach,
Sounds good, the guys will have to figure out how to make it work like you want.
T,
Nice install, looks very nice. My location was good because I did not have to remove any fiberglass. I also like that the passengers can reach them, and they are easy to reach when no one is driving. Your location looks very clean.Be excellent to one another.
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T, is that chunk of f/g what you had to remove in order to mount the switches!!!!
Are they mounted right to the cluster bezal, and if so, is there anything back there to support them?
Thanks, your install looks factoryMikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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'chunk of f/g'
Re the install: Yeeuh, that chunk of fiberglass is what lies behind the far right side of the 'switch section' of the dash - where I felt I 'needed' to put the pots. I was considering installing them on the right side of the upper 'gauge section' of the dash - and to further what TT mentioned, there's no fiberglass behind the gauge panel at all, which is a major bonus for going in the high section. If I went up there, I was going to install the pots in an 'arc' between the Taps Gauge and the fuses, but I wasn't confident that I'd get the curvature and spacing to look right.
Cutting the fiberglass in the lower section was a little scary - it's tight quarters (too tight for a sabre saw - it would contact the dash and certainly mess up the soft, rubberized coating) and even w/a drywall hand saw, I had to be careful that the point didn't jump out and cut the dash (I had the dash taped and covered the best I could). I also swiss-cheesed the area along my cut-line w/drill bits as much as I could to minimize the sawing - which is why the leftover piece of fiberglass in picture 2 looks like I chewed it out.
The pots are held in place by a nut that theads over a small threaded pipe which protects/houses the adjustment post. Once the fader/pot is locked in place, you put the knob/dial on the adjustment post and set the dial position with a small allen nut which contacts the post (i.e., for full gain pr '11', the line on my dials point straight up, etc.). And fyi, the dash pieces that TT & I mounted through look like aluminum but are plastic, so there are no conductivity issues.
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