on/off for tower speakers?

[Coach]

I must not have stated that clearly. I will have a gain control to turn the volume all the way down when I want. I will also have a gain control for the cabin and sub. 3 gain controls and a master vol contol. I will only blast the river when I want.

[talltigeguy]

Sorry I misunderstood. So you will need separate RCA outs for the 485, the pro 80's, the sub, and the cockpit speakers. Will you just use a splitter to get power to all of those? I have toyed with the idea of an EQ or line driver, are you using one?

[Coach]

I am going to have 3 amps. Tower, cabin, and sub each with a gain control and fader control going to the tower. Wired for Sound in Muietta will figure out the final wiring.

[T*]

Faders/Potentiometers

These pots do work very well, as Chp, TT and XPJ have mentioned. I installed three of them on my '05 22i last winter - one controls the cabin, one controls the tower and one controls the sub. I thought it would be nice to be able to dial back the cabin speakers in case the passengers didn't want it as loud as the rider. After one season, I must say that the tower and cabin pots have basically been pegged on high 95% of the time. The sub pot was a last minute addition to the schematic, but I'm very glad I put it in, as I use that adjustment very often - I tuned the sub amp so that it can be pegged for almost all Rock, Pop, etc, but needs dialed back for Hip Hop (Nellyville for example) or everything in the boat starts to vibrate and fish start floating.

I went with a different location for the pots than the previous reply - I mounted them to the right of the toggle switches (personal preference). I did have to remove some fiberglass, however. I'm going to attempt to post a picture of the prep and install. If all goes well, I'll include a pic that shows the pots, as well as the sub I installed and the location of my iPod (hard-wired and mounted to the windshield support - accesible by driver and passenger).

Good luck with your install - have fun with it.

[Coach]

These pots do work very well, as Chp, TT and XPJ have mentioned. I installed three of them on my '05 22i last winter - one controls the cabin, one controls the tower and one controls the sub. I thought it would be nice to be able to dial back the cabin speakers in case the passengers didn't want it as loud as the rider. After one season, I must say that the tower and cabin pots have basically been pegged on high 95% of the time. The sub pot was a last minute addition to the schematic, but I'm very glad I put it in, as I use that adjustment very often - I tuned the sub amp so that it can be pegged for almost all Rock, Pop, etc, but needs dialed back for Hip Hop (Nellyville for example) or everything in the boat starts to vibrate and fish start floating.

I went with a different location for the pots than the previous reply - I mounted them to the right of the toggle switches (personal preference). I did have to remove some fiberglass, however. I'm going to attempt to post a picture of the prep and install. If all goes well, I'll include a pic that shows the pots, as well as the sub I installed and the location of my iPod (hard-wired and mounted to the windshield support - accesible by driver and passenger).

Good luck with your install - have fun with it.

Very clean install! That is very close to where I want mine. I want them close to my right hand so I can adjust the music level very easily. I have been in a few cars / trucks with just the sub gain control and just like you stated the ablity to lower the bass with some of the hip hop stuff is great so you aren't getting slammed. My guess is I will really want this with a 15 sitting right next to my feet.

[T*]

Thanks for the props on the install - it was a fun project. I installed the amps, the 12" sub (and the 4" next to it - the other 4" is aimed at the driver from the passenger side) in concert w/the pots. The right side of the wheel seemed like an ergonomic placement for the pots, as the stereo remote is on the right side of the helm (I didn't mention, but the stereo remote remains the master volume control for the system).

Initially, I thought I'd have liked to mount the iPod on the right side as well, but couldn't find a good spot for it. Again, after a season of use, the location between the passenger and driver seems to work well - let the passenger F with the iPod while the driver drives (besides, most rely heavily on playlists the pod just runs). I drilled a hole directly below the windshield post into the metal windshield mounting bracket that is just large enough to squeeze the line for the iPod headphone jack through, so when the technology advances past iPods, I won't have to fill a hole in the fiberglass or dash area. This may happen sooner than later, as I may go to a true iPod interface cable to allow the iPod to be accessed via the Clarion head unit and remotes - then the iPod will live in the glove box.

If any other pics would be helpful, let me know and I'll take them. Also, if someone could tell me how to properly post a pic so that it shows up in the body of the post, that would be great!

[Coach]

For some reason if you attach 1 or 2 photos they show up but when you do more than 3 they don't show up and end up as attachments like yours.

I don't have the know how or time to do this myself. I have done stereo's before but with a new boat I am letting the Pro's handle it. My master vol will also be on a remote directly connected to the HU. I am doing a HU with the IPod controler. That way my I Pod never leaves the glove box and I just can put on a playlist for who ever is riding or my clean mix for when we are hanging out on the beach with the kids.

[Moki]

T*,
I agree, nice install. I am going to have to find room on my dash to do this as well. What switches did you use? To get your pics to show up in your message, what I do is:

1. attach images
2. right click on each image, go to properties and copy the url address - "http://......."
3. Then copy the url address between these two tags where you want your image to display "[IMG]" "[/IMG]" (don't use quotes in message).

[spharis]

post images
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...0553#post30553

[kirk]

Get another amp!

I have a seperate amps for my subs and tower speakers and have two toggle switches on the dash that I run the remote power lines to the amps through. I am able to turn off my tower speakers and my subs seperately by doing this.
This method is easy and inexpensive.

[T*]

Spharis/Moki: thanks for the picture assistance. Much obliged.

Moki: the pots I used are PAC LC-1's - they seem to be a popular choice for this application. You should be able to get three of them delivered for under $50 from most websites.

[spharis]

If you like to engineer your own stuff, you can build 3 of them for about half that.

Note you have to get "dual gang" pots for stereo control.

[talltigeguy]

Coach,

Sounds good, the guys will have to figure out how to make it work like you want.

T,

Nice install, looks very nice. My location was good because I did not have to remove any fiberglass. I also like that the passengers can reach them, and they are easy to reach when no one is driving. Your location looks very clean.

[chpthril]

T, is that chunk of f/g what you had to remove in order to mount the switches!!!!
Are they mounted right to the cluster bezal, and if so, is there anything back there to support them?

Thanks, your install looks factory

[T*]

'chunk of f/g'

Re the install: Yeeuh, that chunk of fiberglass is what lies behind the far right side of the 'switch section' of the dash - where I felt I 'needed' to put the pots. I was considering installing them on the right side of the upper 'gauge section' of the dash - and to further what TT mentioned, there's no fiberglass behind the gauge panel at all, which is a major bonus for going in the high section. If I went up there, I was going to install the pots in an 'arc' between the Taps Gauge and the fuses, but I wasn't confident that I'd get the curvature and spacing to look right.

Cutting the fiberglass in the lower section was a little scary - it's tight quarters (too tight for a sabre saw - it would contact the dash and certainly mess up the soft, rubberized coating) and even w/a drywall hand saw, I had to be careful that the point didn't jump out and cut the dash (I had the dash taped and covered the best I could). I also swiss-cheesed the area along my cut-line w/drill bits as much as I could to minimize the sawing - which is why the leftover piece of fiberglass in picture 2 looks like I chewed it out.

The pots are held in place by a nut that theads over a small threaded pipe which protects/houses the adjustment post. Once the fader/pot is locked in place, you put the knob/dial on the adjustment post and set the dial position with a small allen nut which contacts the post (i.e., for full gain pr '11', the line on my dials point straight up, etc.). And fyi, the dash pieces that TT & I mounted through look like aluminum but are plastic, so there are no conductivity issues.