Coolant Question

[Jhfury]

freeheel4life - just wanted to let you know that the leak was coming from the connection in the coolant tubes in the bow - those clamps weren't very tight and it was leaking into the bilge from there. Tightened them up and topped off the coolant a few times and now we are good and the temp is under 160 all day!

[freeheel4life]

Awesome!! Glad you were able to find it and are back to boating!!

[h2osk8er00]

Yeah that is great you go it done by tightening a few clamps! Nothing beats diagnosing and fixing yourself IMO! Freeheel4life sure does have some great insight though! This site is an amazing Stuart to diagnosing issues on the boat... that is for sure! Cool trick on the phosphorescent fluid to detect the leak location! Genius!


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[Jhfury]

You guys seem to have the answers, so here's another issue that just came up yesterday. My Crank battery level is low and go the warning light on the way out. Went back to the marina and swapped out the batteries. Had decent power (12) on the way out - surfed for 7 miles and then the warning light came back on. Flipped the battery to Emergency and headed back to the marina.
Not sure what's going on with the Crank battery but it is not holding a charge or charging. Would the alternator be the first diagnosis or could it be a loose connection?

[Jhfury]

freeheel4life - here's another issue that just came up yesterday. My Crank battery level is low and go the warning light on the way out. Went back to the marina and swapped out the batteries. Had decent power (12) on the way out - surfed for 7 miles and then the warning light came back on. Flipped the battery to Emergency and headed back to the marina.
Not sure what's going on with the Crank battery but it is not holding a charge or charging. Would the alternator be the first diagnosis or could it be a loose connection?

[freeheel4life]

Get a multimeter and check battery voltage first. Then start and check alternator B+ voltage while running. Should be 13.2 - 14.6. Then check voltage at battery while running. If not the same as alternator voltage (within .1-.2 volts) switch to combine on battery switch and see if you you get the same as alternator voltage.

[h2osk8er00]

Could be many things but sounds like you’re not getting a charge. Start at the battery with a volt meter and see if you’re getting a charge first. If not, check all connections between. What is the dash gauge reading for your charge? Might be a simple fix but may take a little trouble shooting to find. I had a 90 amp fuse ok the starter go recently that showed my charge was 13.8v or so but the batteries were not receiving it at all.


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[Jhfury]

freeheel4life h2osk8er00 Bought a multimeter and alternator is good, batteries are good but the House battery is reading 15 and the Crank is only 12. Had a guy looking at it today who's a boat mechanic (just happened to be walking by as we were in the slip) and he thinks its the isolator. We tightened it all up so hoping it will charge the Crank battery but he said that it doesn't hurt to run the boat in Emergency Mode, which when I do that both my battery readings are 14.

I saw in another post that freeheel4life said these isolators are known to have issues. Do you know the part # for a 2016 Tige Z3?

[chpthril]

Do you know the part # for a 2016 Tige Z3?

I would not bother. Whichever one it has, id convert to a Blue Sea ACR, if the issue is traced back to the OEM unit.

[Jhfury]

chpthril This? https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-...hoCN98QAvD_BwE

[h2osk8er00]

That’s cool... Off topic kinda.. but Mike, [mention]chpthril [/mention] how do the older boats send that charge back...Is it based solely on how that boat is running (as determined by the battery switch)? Or are both batteries charged identically? (For a 2000 era 350 MAG/MPI)


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[chpthril]

That’s cool... Off topic kinda.. but Mike, [mention]chpthril [/mention] how do the older boats send that charge back...Is it based solely on how that boat is running (as determined by the battery switch)? Or are both batteries charged identically? (For a 2000 era 350 MAG/MPI)


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in the case of jhfury's boat, he has the ideal battery switch on a voltage sensing devise already, so the conversion is fairly easy.

In a boat with a single bank, you would need to install the switch and ACR, as well as build a number of battery cables in order to complete the install.

In short, the system is designed to that the main cranking bank ALWAYS gets a charge form the alternator. The ACR determines when the house gets a charge or gets isolated from the main.

Ive been designing/installing as well as packaging up DIY dual banks for years unit the blue sea. Its a bulletproof device.

[h2osk8er00]

Ive been designing/installing as well as packaging up DIY dual banks for years unit the blue sea. Its a bulletproof device.

That’s awesome. Seems like they should Come factory like that! Good intel nonetheless! Appreciate it Mike! Hope all is well your way with the recent hurricane that hit.


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[chpthril]

That’s awesome. Seems like they should Come factory like that! Good intel nonetheless! Appreciate it Mike! Hope all is well your way with the recent hurricane that hit.


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They kind of due, except the last couple of brands/models used, have not be reliable.

Thanks for asking. We are inland west (4 hours) enough that the hurricanes normally do not get us, but she did do a number to parts of the coast and inland some.

We were only 100 miles from Saturdays 8:07AM 5.1 quake though. Did some significant damage in the small town where the center was. Wu-Flu, Murder hornets, hurricanes, quakes, riots..................whats next 2020?

[freeheel4life]

Tige switched to nothing g but Blue Sea ACRs. Cant remember when but believe it was in 16.