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    Sub/Amp/Battery ?

    This will be lengthy and if it goes in circles or doesn’t make sense I apologize.

    Had the boat out for the first time this season. Everything was going great, then

    1. The sub under the steering wheel Started popping. When I paid attention to the speaker I could actually see the cone of the speaker pop out and make an electrical pop sound and then sucked back in and make another electrical popping sound...could hear the pop through the speakers. When the cone was popped out all the speakers would work until the cone popped back in. The cone usually popped back in in less than two seconds.

    2. I have the red switch in the back of the boat for batteries. Straight up is off turn clockwise one click and I believe that is cranking battery only. Turn clockwise another click and it is both batteries.

    I noticed that both batteries were charging while we were driving. The cranking battery would fluctuate between 12 and 14. It would get all the way up to 14 then it would go back to 12.something and then work its way back up. The house battery once it got up to 14 hovered usually between 13.8 and 14.2.

    When I stopped and turn the motor off and turn the key all the way to the right and switch the red dye out to dual battery I would watch my on screen voltage. As soon as I did that the cranking battery would show 1.2 and house battery would start at it’s 14.2 and over an hour get down into the mid 13’s.

    Does that sound normal for the cranking battery?

    As soon as I would flip the key back to start the boat the cranking battery would shoot all the way up to 12.3 to 12.8. Boat started with no problem even after two hours of listening to the radio.

    3. The sub is Wetsounds as well as the rest of the speakers. When I dug everything out and looked at the amps the Wetsound amplifier was working fine. The other amp is an ARC audio XDI. It had a flashing red light that said protected on the front of it.


    Is this something I can troubleshoot myself? Or way over my head? By Way over my head I mean testing wiring, amps and volts. Or is this a simple reset or maybe a bad battery?

    #2
    There is an obvious voltage issue, so lets start with year and model boat.

    2nd, the battery switch. ON is on for both banks and COMBINE combines the house to the main cranking bank. This would only be used for an emergency start. Running in the combine mode, you run the risk of running both banks down. So once this issue is resolved, run the boat only in the ON position.

    You are going to need a volt meter if you choose to tackle this yourself.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

    Comment


      #3
      I only run the boat in the on position. I turn it to both when we stop and float
      ...so I should always keep it in the on position unless an emergency????
      ...So never go to the combine selector unless an emergency

      2013 z3

      Comment


        #4
        Yes. Leave the switch in ON all the time when you are on the boat.

        Combine for emergency start
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

        Comment

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