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2015 Tige Z3 TAPs 3 to GSA

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    #76
    Originally posted by cnote View Post

    you say taps plates didn't move, but i can't duplicate the wave i had last year weighted evenly like last year. same surf settings. do you think all the extra weight is affecting taps ability to do its job? is it possible i have the wrong actuators and they're not moving as far as they should?

    another thing i see on an adjacent topic here is people have to run 12mph + with gsa to clean that wave. wow, that's fast. the fastest we'll go is 11.4 and that's with a longboard. that has to ramp up your rpms and thereby fuel consumption, right?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Any amount of ballast wont affect the actuator's ability to put the tab into position. I don't believe your actuators were changed out with the update. Should just be the 2 1/4" travel. What did change is the mounting locations. This could affect the tab angle you needed for the perfect transfer wave. Lets say you surfed at setting #4 and it was perfect. That number equaled something like 12 degrees down on the tab (I don't know what the number was). With your new mounting location your #4 setting now puts the tab angle at, say, 11 degrees, instead of the original 12 which gives you an imperfect transfer wave. Setting #3 gives you 13 degrees and setting #5 gives you 9 degrees down. So now there is no way to get to the magic 12 degrees that you used to have. Unless you took measurements before the update, you really have no way of knowing where the tab angle needs to be. If you did take measurements, maybe you can adjust a mount position to get it back to where you need it to be.

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      #77
      Originally posted by cnote View Post
      yes, this. i am about ready to do it, but the one thing before i pull the trigger is if anyone can verify is if switch to gsa tabs lets me weight evenly for a clean wave on both sides for transfers or instant side switch without adjusting water or people. that's the one thing that bums me about taps 3 post-actuator move. i have to list to the surf side, enough so that transfers are not possible if you want a clean wave on both sides. it's awesome surfing one side or the other with correct pitch & roll, just the convenience and flexibility factor which was a big selling point of taps 3 for this hull is no longer there.

      Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
      C note are you sure that they have the lower swivel brackets facing the correct way? I dragging plate would cause these issues.

      If the install was done correctly then we can confirm 2 numbers. The deployed angle in degrees and the stowed angle in degrees. In the world of surf plates those all things can be crap but if those two numbers are constant then it won't matter.

      I would say lets have you put an angle finder on it and check both. From there we can start helping you. If those numbers are good then we need to check that the swivels aren too tight. IF they are then then the actuators can bind and over current fault themselves into a mess.

      So..

      Lets check angles first and if thats ok then lets check actuator operation. Demo mode isn't the sure fire way here. Need to run it in the water. Set taps 3 at 1 go to surf speed and unplug the actuator. Go to surf speed a few times first. DO this for both. IF the angles are good and we test and run it and the actuator is deploying to the checked and confirmed correct angle then we can rule out taps 3 being the issue unless the moved the actual plates which shouldnt have been done.

      I would check ballast next if it were to get that far. My gut tells me it wont.
      Germaine Marine
      "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

      Comment


        #78
        Originally posted by Germaine Marine View Post
        C note are you sure that they have the lower swivel brackets facing the correct way? I dragging plate would cause these issues.

        If the install was done correctly then we can confirm 2 numbers. The deployed angle in degrees and the stowed angle in degrees. In the world of surf plates those all things can be crap but if those two numbers are constant then it won't matter.

        I would say lets have you put an angle finder on it and check both. From there we can start helping you. If those numbers are good then we need to check that the swivels aren too tight. IF they are then then the actuators can bind and over current fault themselves into a mess.

        So..

        Lets check angles first and if thats ok then lets check actuator operation. Demo mode isn't the sure fire way here. Need to run it in the water. Set taps 3 at 1 go to surf speed and unplug the actuator. Go to surf speed a few times first. DO this for both. IF the angles are good and we test and run it and the actuator is deploying to the checked and confirmed correct angle then we can rule out taps 3 being the issue unless the moved the actual plates which shouldnt have been done.

        I would check ballast next if it were to get that far. My gut tells me it wont.
        i am fairly certain brackets are good. i checked them after i had wave issues first run out this year. I can also make a great wave using correct pitch and roll settings using ballast and same taps surf setting as last year (4), and it deploys every time.

        regarding unplugging actuator while underway, is there an easily accessible location to do this (fuse)? if i do this will it reset when plugged back in? if able to get true stowed and deployed angles going to have to get wet and try and get s measurement and pictures underwater. any advice on best tool(s) to use for this operation? (assuming a regular grade school protractor ain't gonna cut it)

        im also assuming gsa plate install wont solve my issue (if you want to call it that) if actuators aren't functioning correctly.

        Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

        Comment


          #79
          Originally posted by UNSTUCK View Post
          Any amount of ballast wont affect the actuator's ability to put the tab into position. I don't believe your actuators were changed out with the update. Should just be the 2 1/4" travel. What did change is the mounting locations. This could affect the tab angle you needed for the perfect transfer wave. Lets say you surfed at setting #4 and it was perfect. That number equaled something like 12 degrees down on the tab (I don't know what the number was). With your new mounting location your #4 setting now puts the tab angle at, say, 11 degrees, instead of the original 12 which gives you an imperfect transfer wave. Setting #3 gives you 13 degrees and setting #5 gives you 9 degrees down. So now there is no way to get to the magic 12 degrees that you used to have. Unless you took measurements before the update, you really have no way of knowing where the tab angle needs to be. If you did take measurements, maybe you can adjust a mount position to get it back to where you need it to be.
          The actuators fire at speed. Weight absolutely plays a roll especially if the pressure load is close to its max. If the boat is now 3k lbs heavier its going to exert more pressure during the deployment phase. All of this can have an affect if the overrun isnt correct.
          Germaine Marine
          "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

          Comment


            #80
            Originally posted by cnote View Post
            i am fairly certain brackets are good. i checked them after i had wave issues first run out this year. I can also make a great wave using correct pitch and roll settings using ballast and same taps surf setting as last year (4), and it deploys every time.

            regarding unplugging actuator while underway, is there an easily accessible location to do this (fuse)? if i do this will it reset when plugged back in? if able to get true stowed and deployed angles going to have to get wet and try and get s measurement and pictures underwater. any advice on best tool(s) to use for this operation? (assuming a regular grade school protractor ain't gonna cut it)

            im also assuming gsa plate install wont solve my issue (if you want to call it that) if actuators aren't functioning correctly.

            Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
            Yeah lets figure out the problem you have first. You can unplug the actuators right art the access panel on each side. Really easy. Run the boat to speed 2-3 times a side then fire up taps 3, do one side and unplug then the other and unplug. drive it back easy and put it on the trailer. Check deployment angles. Plug it all back in and see if the over run on the retract sucks the system back up. If not, dealer settings then put it into manual mode. get both sides all the way down then switch left to right and the system should reset.
            Germaine Marine
            "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

            Comment


              #81
              You’re saying the more weight in the boat the harder it is for the actuator to deploy the tab?

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by UNSTUCK View Post
                You’re saying the more weight in the boat the harder it is for the actuator to deploy the tab?
                Im saying the load on the actuator is higher as either the weight or speed or a combo of both increase. Within limits still? Probably. Put the boat in demo mode and put some pressure on the system as you deploy it. You will see the actuator waver in the consistency category.

                People always go... "how can weight affect the actuator when its deploying in water, it cant push down on the water and lift the boat up" Im always quick to ask people if they feel the boat list over at speed? If you add weight the load is going to increase on the actuator. Its why big cruisers dont use the same hardware. Its also why Tige went to a electric over hydraulic actuator. They wanted to remove load from the equation and give us a system that actually has a sensor to rate movement.

                This is all moot if you are using a system that is deploying while at rest.
                Germaine Marine
                "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

                Comment


                  #83
                  I just removed the taps3 plates last weekend and I’m installing to the GSA plates this weekend. Can you post your angle of the plates retracted and deployed.

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                    #84
                    15 degrees down and as close to the platform as you can get when retracted.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Originally posted by Germaine Marine View Post
                      Im saying the load on the actuator is higher as either the weight or speed or a combo of both increase. Within limits still? Probably. Put the boat in demo mode and put some pressure on the system as you deploy it. You will see the actuator waver in the consistency category.

                      People always go... "how can weight affect the actuator when its deploying in water, it cant push down on the water and lift the boat up" Im always quick to ask people if they feel the boat list over at speed? If you add weight the load is going to increase on the actuator. Its why big cruisers dont use the same hardware. Its also why Tige went to a electric over hydraulic actuator. They wanted to remove load from the equation and give us a system that actually has a sensor to rate movement.

                      This is all moot if you are using a system that is deploying while at rest.
                      F = M*a That Newton was one smart cookie

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Originally posted by Germaine Marine View Post
                        Hey Cameron,

                        Yes, we have done a ton of them. We have done them now on every single newer Tige hull out. All the R series, Z series as well as the Rzx and ZX lineup.

                        Let me know if I can help in any way. We currently have 4 boats in the shop getting the system put on. Its really, really good.
                        Looking for a little insight on surf setup for a 2020 R23 w/ GSA (TAPS 3T). Trying to not reinvent the wheel when it comes to initial setup. I have heard of some challenges since they switched to subfloor ballast, im assuming the GSA should help. Any help including lead placement would be appreciated.

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