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Damn- you guys have me worried. I only demoed the R23 last year w/o the re-position. I haven't tried it out yet with. I sure hope I don't run into the same issue but looking at your pics, they look the exact same as mine! Of course, I didn't take measurements or pics of the old position to compare them to. That's the only way things would change is if the re-position of the actuators changed the angles of the plates which, they would of had to. I sure hope Tige tested each model with this new kit! Justin, do you know if they did?
It's a bit of a long shot since its 2 boats, but I have already had to change a bunch of actuators while doing the retro. When testing after the retro found they were bad.
I go into dealer mode and so a surf demo. The trick is getting someone else to add resistance to the plates during extension AND retraction. If the plates dont push right thru the person adding the resistance then actuators are bad...
Mine will get tested this weekend so I’ll post my findings for a 3rd boat. I don’t have much previous experience on this boat to compare it to but I do know the old settings during my demo. I’ll try to take pitch and roll measurements too.
It's a bit of a long shot since its 2 boats, but I have already had to change a bunch of actuators while doing the retro. When testing after the retro found they were bad.
I go into dealer mode and so a surf demo. The trick is getting someone else to add resistance to the plates during extension AND retraction. If the plates dont push right thru the person adding the resistance then actuators are bad...
Probably not the issue but worth ruling out.
I know my plates are deploying as I can feel the boat yaw and list when we switch from left to right or right to left. However, it could be beneficial to hold pressure on the plate when retracting!
Is it possible for the actuator to deploy correctly but fail to retract all the way? Have you seen this failure? If so, that could be the issue I’m having.
I know my plates are deploying as I can feel the boat yaw and list when we switch from left to right or right to left. However, it could be beneficial to hold pressure on the plate when retracting!
Is it possible for the actuator to deploy correctly but fail to retract all the way? Have you seen this failure? If so, that could be the issue I’m having.
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It is totally possible and thats why I mentioned it. Though you probably would have noticed your plate hanging down once trailered. Also, the actuator can deply but not enough when they are weak/water filled.
Like I said, it is mostly just a variable that is worth ruling out so you arent chasing your tail in circles over a bad actuator.
It is totally possible and thats why I mentioned it. Though you probably would have noticed your plate hanging down once trailered. Also, the actuator can deply but not enough when they are weak/water filled.
Like I said, it is mostly just a variable that is worth ruling out so you arent chasing your tail in circles over a bad actuator.
In your experience does fail once = always fail? My plates were fully retracted on the trailer.
Reference my previous post, it looks like my brackets were installed correctly. Still need to test the actuator as recommended.
Yes the bracket on the plate is correct but you need to check the top bracket as well. The top bracket should be orientated such that the plate is stowed in the highest position possible. My dealer had installed the top bracket wrong and I wasn’t able to make a wave at all when it was wrong, so I assume it’s right on yours too since you can at least make a surf wave.
In your experience does fail once = always fail? My plates were fully retracted on the trailer.
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In my experience they take on water. Lencos are just a little electric motor with some gears inside. Water and electric motors...well.
They fail in a number of ways. The thing to remember is they dont have a sender so they dont know where they are in the real world. Hypothetical here...you select a #3 at the screen for TAPS3. The PDM sends current to the actuator for 2.5 seconds to get to that #3 position. If the actuator is slow/sluggish due to water intrusion it wont travel as far in that 2.5 seconds that a healthy actuator would.
So you never really got a "#3" deployment in the above hypothetical. That's why I say you also need to rule out actuators as well as geometry.
Yes the bracket on the plate is correct but you need to check the top bracket as well. The top bracket should be orientated such that the plate is stowed in the highest position possible. My dealer had installed the top bracket wrong and I wasn’t able to make a wave at all when it was wrong, so I assume it’s right on yours too since you can at least make a surf wave.
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My tabs seem to be fully retracted so want to be sure what I’m looking for as far as an incorrect install.
Can you clarify how your dealer installed the top bracket “wrong”?
If you could provide a picture of the correct install that would be appreciated.
Thanks
Yes the bracket on the plate is correct but you need to check the top bracket as well. The top bracket should be orientated such that the plate is stowed in the highest position possible. My dealer had installed the top bracket wrong and I wasn’t able to make a wave at all when it was wrong, so I assume it’s right on yours too since you can at least make a surf wave.
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anyone know the "relative to the hull" stowed position/angle for surf plates? i.e. how would i know if they're fully stowed or deployed? also not sure what to look for on hull- mounted brackets to know if they're installed correctly?
anyone know the "relative to the hull" stowed position/angle for surf plates? i.e. how would i know if they're fully stowed or deployed? also not sure what to look for on hull- mounted brackets to know if they're installed correctly?
My tabs seem to be fully retracted so want to be sure what I’m looking for as far as an incorrect install.
Can you clarify how your dealer installed the top bracket “wrong”?
If you could provide a picture of the correct install that would be appreciated.
Thanks
As I understood it, the bracket was rotated 180 degrees which pushes the plate down an inch or 2. I can post a pic Thursday or Friday when I’m at the boat storage.
brackets were done correctly, according to freeheel's advice. so, yes, still having same issue. i can't pitch higher than about 6 degrees (used to be 11) or wave washes out. it also seems to be a lot more finicky, any turn or side wake also washes it out. the overall effect is wave is not as tall, about same length. tried speeding up, adjusting taps, but pitch and roll were about 6/2-3 degrees respectively to have any sort of clean wave. I'm pretty disappointed right now. throwing 900# of lead plus full water ballast and about 800# of people should give me a better wave, more push, taller, etc. and last year we had it. don't get me wrong, it's not a bad wave, but right now the Malibu 23lsv i surf with dfw surf l is a better wave, hands down. last year it was 50/50. going to keep playing with it though. my next step is throw in some extra tsunami sacks to see what that gets me. i hope i can get this worked out because the wave can be better.
anyone else out there having luck?
anyone of our other tige experts offer anything here?
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Where do u put the phone when taking measurements with the clinometer app? What phone model did u use?
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