I am in Maryland. I decided to epoxy the floor although in hindsight it was probably not needed. I am very fortunate that I have the time to work on it although I would say that most of the time is from 8pm-1am after the little guy goes to sleep! My wife is not thrilled although she will wonder how the boat changed so much from last year.
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Originally posted by D&P Powell View PostWhew - and here I thought I was the only getting those questions!!!
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Originally posted by Carranza913 View PostI am in Maryland. I decided to epoxy the floor although in hindsight it was probably not needed. I am very fortunate that I have the time to work on it although I would say that most of the time is from 8pm-1am after the little guy goes to sleep! My wife is not thrilled although she will wonder how the boat changed so much from last year.
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Here is some more work completed!
Thru hulls are in and ball valves are on!
Ballast switches are mounted and on. I will be adding a battery switch between them and the house bank just so I can shut it off to avoid and accidental draining of battery.
Seat base is back in its original location. I wish I would have powder coated it black but maybe next year.. just have to run ballast hoses, put the trim up around the floor, change impeller, change spark plugs, add bungee cord device for surf rack and then I am done for the year!
Just saw 0% on go surf assist.. that is dangerous! However I think I want to step up to a 23-25 footer so I will probably just continue to use suck gate until I decide to sell her.
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I will be adding a battery switch between them and the house bank just so I can shut it off to avoid and accidental draining of battery.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Im guessing you have 3 ballast B+ ring terminals to put somewhere? And they're currently on a battery post?
For those following along, on a boat of this gen, we suggest drawing the ballast pump B+ from the 4ga helm BUS that supplies the black breaker box on the helm wall. Theres a 4ga helm B- BUS under there as well. Short runs to the switches as compared to running three 2-con jacketed pairs all the way back to the batteries.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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however I am not sure that you could prove that the pumps would work any differently wired to a battery through a switch.
Now, that extra cable length, without going up in gauge size, is a measurable voltage difference. But I not think it would make a real work measurable difference on flow rate. It would be measured in 10ths of GPH.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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I want to be very clear here. Im not criticizing your install. You have a prepackage kit and installed it per the design. Given what you have, wiring those switch B+ to the boat side of the switch, is important for the reasons stated.
Now, if moving those 3 additional ring terminals to the boat side of the switch is an issue do to the number of cables already there, then consider a remote battery stud, rather then another switch. A short 8ga jumper from the switch to the stud, would carry the load of the pumps, 4ga would carry the entire helm BUS and pumps. 1/0 would handle starter current. Although, starter current would be on the main side, not the house which is what we are talking about. Just using it as an example. A remote stud close by solves a lot.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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