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My winter project build thread!

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    #76
    I am in Maryland. I decided to epoxy the floor although in hindsight it was probably not needed. I am very fortunate that I have the time to work on it although I would say that most of the time is from 8pm-1am after the little guy goes to sleep! My wife is not thrilled although she will wonder how the boat changed so much from last year.

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      #77
      The number one question I answer on Saturday.. "Why were you down at the boat for 2 hours?"

      Noone ever says thank you when it's clean and the stereo sounds good...

      Looks awesome man. I'm a little jealous of the gator step for sure...

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        #78
        Originally posted by BrentP View Post
        The number one question I answer on Saturday.. "Why were you down at the boat for 2 hours?"
        Whew - and here I thought I was the only getting those questions!!!

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          #79
          Originally posted by D&P Powell View Post
          Whew - and here I thought I was the only getting those questions!!!
          You guys are lucky to be doing that. Right now I just stand at our back door looking out at the boat all tucked away under the patio cover. Last saturday was BAD! I was jonesin bad for a surf fix. Ended up building a board rack for our storage room. That helped......a little.

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            #80
            Originally posted by Carranza913 View Post
            I am in Maryland. I decided to epoxy the floor although in hindsight it was probably not needed. I am very fortunate that I have the time to work on it although I would say that most of the time is from 8pm-1am after the little guy goes to sleep! My wife is not thrilled although she will wonder how the boat changed so much from last year.
            Damn I used to live in Dunkirk too in Southern MD! Used to boat the Patuxent and the Chesapeake Bay! I hear ya on the wife stuff. Lol!


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              #81
              Damn man! I live in Hollywood right across the solomons bridge! I am in the patuxent all the time!

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                #82
                Here is some more work completed!
                Thru hulls are in and ball valves are on!
                Ballast switches are mounted and on. I will be adding a battery switch between them and the house bank just so I can shut it off to avoid and accidental draining of battery.

                Seat base is back in its original location. I wish I would have powder coated it black but maybe next year.. just have to run ballast hoses, put the trim up around the floor, change impeller, change spark plugs, add bungee cord device for surf rack and then I am done for the year!

                Just saw 0% on go surf assist.. that is dangerous! However I think I want to step up to a 23-25 footer so I will probably just continue to use suck gate until I decide to sell her.




                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  #83
                  I will be adding a battery switch between them and the house bank just so I can shut it off to avoid and accidental draining of battery.
                  No need if the ballast switch B+ is wired to the boat side of the main battery switch. They are a house load, so refer back to the battery bank schematic.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                    #84
                    Yeah, it’s a long story but it might be easier for me to add a second switch. I have looked at adding to the main switch but I need to re mount the switch to give me the space I need... I might change my mind.

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                      #85
                      Im guessing you have 3 ballast B+ ring terminals to put somewhere? And they're currently on a battery post?

                      For those following along, on a boat of this gen, we suggest drawing the ballast pump B+ from the 4ga helm BUS that supplies the black breaker box on the helm wall. Theres a 4ga helm B- BUS under there as well. Short runs to the switches as compared to running three 2-con jacketed pairs all the way back to the batteries.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                        #86
                        Yes that would be ideal however I am not sure that you could prove that the pumps would work any differently wired to a battery through a switch. It’s essentially the same thing.

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                          #87
                          however I am not sure that you could prove that the pumps would work any differently wired to a battery through a switch.
                          Not out to prove this at all. However, a strong case can be made that when you add another 30-40 feet to each pump circuit, that 12ga is borderline small for the load. Might require stepping up to 10ga. There could easily be 60ft of circuit p/pump. Routing to the helm BUS might be another 3-6 feet is all. Shorter cable runs, is always a benefit. Less cable costs and less time, in some cases. Another plus, is less wire terminal rings at the battery/switch. 3 pumps = 3 more B+ and 3 more B-. Terminating to the helm BUS = 0 additional terminals on the battery/switch.

                          Now, that extra cable length, without going up in gauge size, is a measurable voltage difference. But I not think it would make a real work measurable difference on flow rate. It would be measured in 10ths of GPH.
                          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                            #88
                            I want to be very clear here. Im not criticizing your install. You have a prepackage kit and installed it per the design. Given what you have, wiring those switch B+ to the boat side of the switch, is important for the reasons stated.

                            Now, if moving those 3 additional ring terminals to the boat side of the switch is an issue do to the number of cables already there, then consider a remote battery stud, rather then another switch. A short 8ga jumper from the switch to the stud, would carry the load of the pumps, 4ga would carry the entire helm BUS and pumps. 1/0 would handle starter current. Although, starter current would be on the main side, not the house which is what we are talking about. Just using it as an example. A remote stud close by solves a lot.
                            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                              #89
                              I am in the middle of the same project you are (basically) and I am switching to a helm bus system. Just to cut down on the rat nesting.

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                                #90
                                Yes I doo like the idea. There are so many wires under my helm right now I think I will probably try to make it to the main switch if possible. If I can do that great. If I cant I will just hook them straight to house bank. They are fused and have switches so all is well.

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