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    #31
    TALTIGEGUY, yes I have seen this and I can follow.
    Clarification on this drawing, the alternator cable should go the "switch", top RT (2) nut?
    And the cable that goes to the "engine starter" should get connected to... ? the cranking positive post?

    NOTE: I do not have an on board charger.

    I think I am good. Thanks
    Nick
    Dayton, Ohio

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      #32
      That looks like the infamous "shawndoggy" diagram he gets credit for all the time, that was actually corrected by someone else

      Clarification on this drawing, the alternator cable should go the "switch", top RT (2) nut?
      And the cable that goes to the "engine starter" should get connected to... ? the cranking positive post?
      These two cables will go on the same threaded switch stud.

      Next, whatever side of the switch, 1 or 2, you designate to be the cranking side, those two cables will terminate to the corresponding # terminal thats NOT connected to the battery directly. These posts are then connected electrically when the switch is on.

      I do not have an on board charger.
      This configuration still isolates the small draw the ACR has, when the switch is off.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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        #33
        Originally posted by NHarp1 View Post
        Anyone have problems with batteries lasting?
        To answer the OP's original question: In Spring of this year (2018) I finally replaced the original factory batteries that shipped in my 2009 Tige 24Ve. And I only did so because, after ten years, it seemed like a good idea... both batteries were still working well with no noticeable degradation. They were both Interstate Group 24's with 1000 CCA, and my wife purchased the replacements directly from Interstate's distribution center in Spokane WA.

        Fun fact: When calling to confirm they had this specific marine battery in stock, I asked "How old are the ones you have in stock?" because I didn't want to get a pair whose date code was several years old. His answer: "They're very recent. We go through about a pallet of this model every day." I had absolutely no idea.

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          #34
          I think this is what you suggest. I cleaned it up for my boat.Blu Sea.jpg
          Nick
          Dayton, Ohio

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            #35
            Excited to get the new Blue Sea ACR (replacing the original Marine ISOPROCHARGE) and replacement TT screen in the mail today.
            Between the 2 parts, my erratic TT screen should be fixed.
            Question: will I need a "dealer code" to activate my AVX feature on the software? I will call the dealer today. I was told the software is already flash installed on the TT.

            This spring I plan on replacing the House Battery(stero). Over the past 35 days I have been watching the resting voltage drop from 12.8 to 12.54. The cranking battery is a solid 12.78.
            Thanks
            Last edited by NHarp1; 11-27-2018, 12:55 PM.
            Nick
            Dayton, Ohio

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              #36
              Dealer Code is 9191. AVX will need to be enabled if that's what you have instead of Taps3.
              Oh Yeah!

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                #37
                Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
                Dealer Code is 9191. AVX will need to be enabled if that's what you have instead of Taps3.
                Thanks KoolAid
                Nick
                Dayton, Ohio

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