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    #16
    If true the following feedback I received over at wakeworld may explain some of the wake charecteristics and how the wake is developed. It seems to make sense, what do you guys think?

    "I'll take a stab at answering the "Steeper wakes require less ballast and gasoline".

    Although "hull shape" has some affect on the amount of steepness or where a wake will curl over....and the amount of "fixed hook" or "variable hook" from a cavitation plate, trim tab or hydrogate at the back edge of any hull will also affect the shape.

    Since 1998 wakeboard boasts have been getting bigger and bigger and so has the width of the bottom. The wider the bottom requires more ballast to push it down into the water. More weight requires more hp and gas to do the same work that a narrower bottom requires. Boats with wider beams have flatter/rampier wakes and boats that are narrower sink deeper with less weight. In other words, you can get a steeper wake from a narrow bottom boat than a wide one.

    Many boat builders are trying to walk the line between a wide beam and narrow bottom...if you go too wide with the beam and too narrow on the bottom, you get a "tender boat"...or one that is real sensitive to weight changes. Too wide a bottom and you have more stability, but must put a ton of weight to build the wake."

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      #17
      The RZ and the 22ve will be very similar wakes. They are both 102" wide and more difficult to sink than and x1 or a 210.

      You shouldn't have the same experience riding any of those boats @ 22 and 70 ft. The Tige will be a much wider wake and need either a shorter line, or go with a longer line on the SAN or X1.

      What happens when the taps is on 7 when weighted?

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        #18
        The wake becomes very hard which is good, but it washes really bad at 70 - 75 feet.

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          #19
          I know you have 2 x 300 upfront, but are those bags totally full? Do you think 600s is accurate?

          To me that seems like enough, but if they're not completely full you might try adding a few more lbs.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Lucky 275
            The RZ and the 22ve will be very similar wakes. They are both 102" wide and more difficult to sink than and x1 or a 210.

            You shouldn't have the same experience riding any of those boats @ 22 and 70 ft. The Tige will be a much wider wake and need either a shorter line, or go with a longer line on the SAN or X1.
            True, but one thing to keep in mind is angle of the freeboard coming from the bottom of the hull. Just because the beam is 102" doesn't mean it's 102" at the waterline. If you take a good look at the Ve hull, you'll notice it's more angled (and less perpendicular) than most hulls.

            So, the effect you're talking about may be a lot less pronounced than say a longer boat (like a 24Ve).
            Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

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              #21
              I think if you check you will find there is only a few inches differance in the actual hull witdth in the water from a tige to the other brands. My 22ve and RZ2 is aprox. 76 inches in the water it flares out above the water line to 102.

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                #22
                I agree with what has been said about putting more weight in the front. Tiges seem to perform better with more weight up there. The wake gets firmer on my 24V and really boots me when I get some weight up there. I bet your heavier passengers are also in the cockpit instead of the bow when running your 600 up front and 1000 in the back?

                I also agree with what has been said - my front under seat area is not even close to big enough to hold 600 pounds of water. I have a U bag that holds less than that and seems to fill it pretty full.

                I have heard from many that the first year the speed set came out it was not as good as perfect pass. Now everyone seems to be raving about it.
                Be excellent to one another.

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                  #23
                  Good topic. I went through this same issue when deciding on my CC220. First off, the tige wake is very good for 90% of the riders out there. It holds it's shape very well and is easy to learn on. The CC is going to be a more challenging wake to master. Behind my 22V, I could comfortably jump toe-side and clear the wake with grabs and 180s. I am starting that learning process over behind my CC220 due to the more advanced wake IMO. However, the CC is much easier for inverts. I had to work a lot harder for inverts behind my tige 22V (and yes I weighted it properly). Inverts behind my CC220 are much easier. Each boat has it's advantages and disadvantages as far as wake characteristics go. I prefer a rampier wake for toe-side and a steeper wake for heal-side.

                  Tall is correct. I always weighted my 22V more in front to firm up the wake. If you have a 22ve, try to dial in the weight before you go with something new because you will go through the same thing with a different brand...you just don't know it yet. All boats perform really good with the right weight configuration. Find what works for you and stick with it.

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                    #24
                    switching boats

                    I have also thought about this and have expressed my thoughts on this site. I think that wake is fine, I am a huge fan of taps and and hater of ballast. I would not switch b/c of wake but because of what tige has done the the graphics and doing away with the 22V.

                    But after doing research on MC's (only other dealer in my town, all others out of state), specificly the X-star. I have heard alot of stuff I don't like. But I won't be switching boats this year, so maybe tige can bring my hopes back together in next years model.

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                      #25
                      On a 24Ve how long of a rope should I use?

                      Kid likes 22mph.

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                        #26
                        70'

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                          #27
                          I can also add that more weight in the front helps. My '04 22V with the Rival system started with 2- 200# bags in front and they couldn't fill 100%. Last year I changed them out with a Pro X series U-bag and I estimate that it gives me an extra 100# of actual weight. I also piped another bag under the bow filler cushion that probably adds 150# or more. And I have 3-65# bars up front. That is as much wieght that I can get hidden without using more lead. The rear has 2-400# bags. If we fill everything, which isn't all the time, it puts a big grin on everyones face. I know that the extra few hundred pounds up front makes a difference. My suggestion is find 3 to 4 big guys (200#+) and move them around the boat- all in front and then all up front. That will give you a good idea of what you can expect by adding more weight and where to add it.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by zeda
                            Good topic. I went through this same issue when deciding on my CC220. First off, the tige wake is very good for 90% of the riders out there. It holds it's shape very well and is easy to learn on. The CC is going to be a more challenging wake to master. Behind my 22V, I could comfortably jump toe-side and clear the wake with grabs and 180s. I am starting that learning process over behind my CC220 due to the more advanced wake IMO. However, the CC is much easier for inverts. I had to work a lot harder for inverts behind my tige 22V (and yes I weighted it properly). Inverts behind my CC220 are much easier. Each boat has it's advantages and disadvantages as far as wake characteristics go. I prefer a rampier wake for toe-side and a steeper wake for heal-side.
                            Zeda,
                            Thanks for evaluation on the two different boats. Have you skied behind your CC220, if so, how is the wake compared to your 22v for waterskiing? So, if I understand you evaluation correctly, your 22v is more rampier and the cc220 is steeper?
                            Last edited by Moki; 11-06-2006, 06:17 PM.

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                              #29
                              Moki,

                              I skied behind the 220 and found it very comparable to the 22V overall at 15 off at about 31 to 32 mph. Here are the differences as I see them. The 22V wake has a wider table with two distinct bumps. The 220 has a narrow table with what feels more like one bump. The 22V bumps are softer than the 220 one bump, but not by much. Wake size is about the same. I like the pull of the 220 better (not sure if that has something to do with the pylon mounted in the glass only on the Tige, but the 220 pylon is mounted to the stringer system and is very solid). This is where I think Tige can make an improvement.

                              The CC220 wakeboarding wake (with 950 pounds stock ballast and hydrogate in the middle position) is larger and steeper than the 22V wake (TAPS at 5/6 with 500 pounds in bow walkway and 250 in each rear locker). Don't get me wrong, the 22V wake loaded that way is pretty big and rampy. The 22V table is wider (102" beam vs. 96" beam). Both are solid wakes IMO. Just comes down to preference.

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                                #30
                                Thanks Zeda,
                                I am glad to see that you are sticking around!

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