How many hours past oil change message?

[freeheel4life]

Im with Unstuck. I wouldnt push a break in oil change. After the break in oil change I would push my intervals if needed to stay out on the water.

So the nerd in me has only one argument for doing an oil change before layup. Engine oil starts out alkaline and as it used it starts moves past a basic ph and into that acidic range. The more its used the more acidic it gets. Short of getting some litmus paper and testing the oil off the dipstick I personally dont want acidic oil on my seals and internals for 5-6 months of storage. Thats my only argument for fresh oil before putting the boat up for the winter.

[ajhamzehpour]

Yeah, I need the full 20 hr service completed which looks to be much more involved than just the oil change. Maybe I’ll have oil changed on the water and do the break in service at the end of the season when I planned to take it to the dealer. Any hard “no’s” against that idea? I just really hate to go get the trailer, take it off the water, drive 3 hours to my preferred dealer and hope they can do same day service so I don’t lose even more time on the water (missed 8 weeks of the season already due to tree incident). Problem is, I could see myself easily putting another 20-30 hours on it before end of season (mid-Oct).

[bsreid]

20 hours?? Johnnie!

That’s like a day and a half on a friends boat. 330 hours in under 3 months.

[talltigeguy]

Yeah, I need the full 20 hr service completed which looks to be much more involved than just the oil change. Maybe I’ll have oil changed on the water and do the break in service at the end of the season when I planned to take it to the dealer. Any hard “no’s” against that idea? I just really hate to go get the trailer, take it off the water, drive 3 hours to my preferred dealer and hope they can do same day service so I don’t lose even more time on the water (missed 8 weeks of the season already due to tree incident). Problem is, I could see myself easily putting another 20-30 hours on it before end of season (mid-Oct).

I think that sounds like a reasonable idea. As you noted, Tige has a checklist for the 20 hour service. They should check the alignment, other fluids, various nuts and bolts, and so forth. But the most time sensitive is the oil.

There may be a rare happening where delaying that caused something to fail that would have been checked, but those sorts of things are pretty rare. I would call the dealer, explain your situation and plan, and get their OK. They would have to be the one to go to bat for you if something failed that caused a bigger repair than would have been initially necessary. If they feel strongly you need to bring it in, then follow their advice.

[JohnnieMo]

20 hours?? Johnnie!

That’s like a day and a half on a friends boat. 330 hours in under 3 months.

I took the approach of "happy wife, happy life". That approach was an utter failure. She has camped 65 days this summer and I've boated for 20 hours.

[bsreid]

You gotta camp on the lake and go out for morning surfs just in time to be back and make breakfast.

[ajhamzehpour]

I've decided I'm going to tackle it myself on Saturday but have limited experience with boats, let alone this R21.

As far as I understand it's:
1) Warm up motor
2) Drain oil (preferably with a pump)
3) Remove old filter, make sure gasket isn't still inside it. -- do I have the spin filter kind on a 360R Indmar?
4) Oil up the new filter and put on
5) Fill oil with 7+ quarts per dipstick line
6) Run for a minute
7) Wait 5 minutes and re-measure and top off as needed. Should need just shy of 8 qts.

Any glaring omissions?

Oh, and the happy wife part... hilarious. As it never seems to work out as planned.

[bsreid]

Don’t forget to run on water hose. Seems logical but some forget. If you don’t have a pump let it drain overnight.

[freeheel4life]

I've decided I'm going to tackle it myself on Saturday but have limited experience with boats, let alone this R21.

As far as I understand it's:
1) Warm up motor
2) Drain oil (preferably with a pump)
3) Remove old filter, make sure gasket isn't still inside it. -- do I have the spin filter kind on a 360R Indmar?
4) Oil up the new filter and put on
5) Fill oil with 7+ quarts per dipstick line
6) Run for a minute
7) Wait 5 minutes and re-measure and top off as needed. Should need just shy of 8 qts.

Any glaring omissions?

Oh, and the happy wife part... hilarious. As it never seems to work out as planned.

I dont remember what year you said your boat was. Was originally a canister filter(indmar PN 872025). Now it's a paper cartridge (Indmar 501022s). If it's a paper cartridge you will want a 36mm socket on a fairly short ratchet handle.
Dont forget rags and a funnel. Also a pair of dikes or at least a knife as the oil hose will be coiled and ziptied at stbd side of the engine.
Just go a full 8 qts, no more no less. 5w-30 SN rated oil. We run full synth. Synth blend and even a conventional will meet SN rating. I wouldn't consider running a conventional unless you are changing again before layup.

Lift floor and at least visually check vdrive and and trans fluid level and condition. Take a look at coolant reservoir and make sure it's got some antifreeze in the overflow bottle (its a pinkish Propoleyne Glycol, dont mix in green EG)

That's what I'd do for a half azzed 20 hour. If it is a canister filter you may find its physically impossible to get the filter off. Was a downfall to the 360 in early years. You have to pivot the filter housing to get filter off if that's the case.
I cant remember but I think its 10mm to pivot the housing. Access sucks to loosen housing up and pivot it so I hope you dont fall into that category.

[cltTige]

Dont forget rags and a funnel.

Rags are super important. Idk how the filter is on that engine, but on mine once you take it off oil spills all down into the bottom of the hull (what is that area called?). If its like that make sure to put a thick layer of whatever to absorb it under it.

[ajhamzehpour]

I dont remember what year you said your boat was. Was originally a canister filter(indmar PN 872025). Now it's a paper cartridge (Indmar 501022s). If it's a paper cartridge you will want a 36mm socket on a fairly short ratchet handle.
Dont forget rags and a funnel. Also a pair of dikes or at least a knife as the oil hose will be coiled and ziptied at stbd side of the engine.
Just go a full 8 qts, no more no less. 5w-30 SN rated oil. We run full synth. Synth blend and even a conventional will meet SN rating. I wouldn't consider running a conventional unless you are changing again before layup.

Lift floor and at least visually check vdrive and and trans fluid level and condition. Take a look at coolant reservoir and make sure it's got some antifreeze in the overflow bottle (its a pinkish Propoleyne Glycol, dont mix in green EG)

That's what I'd do for a half azzed 20 hour. If it is a canister filter you may find its physically impossible to get the filter off. Was a downfall to the 360 in early years. You have to pivot the filter housing to get filter off if that's the case.
I cant remember but I think its 10mm to pivot the housing. Access sucks to loosen housing up and pivot it so I hope you dont fall into that category.

Thanks for the info. It's a 2017 R21 w/Indmar 360R motor and the oil change it will be done on the water. I plan to use the 5W30 synthetic blend until the 100 hour oil change as I've read that's the most common approach. Again, I'll take to Tige at the end of the season to perform the remaining items on the break-in service to keep my warranty intact. Really dumb question coming... how do I access the engine compartment to get at the oil drain plug and filler cap. I've only lifted up the floor in the few times I've been on the boat. Just want to make sure I don't get out there and spend 30 minutes trying to figure out how to pull things up to get at the motor.

[UNSTUCK]

[QUOTE=cltTige;800014]

Dont forget rags and a funnel.QUOTE]

Rags are super important. Idk how the filter is on that engine, but on mine once you take it off oil spills all down into the bottom of the hull (what is that area called?). If its like that make sure to put a thick layer of whatever to absorb it under it.

Get the filter loose then slide a zip lock or other plastic bag over the filter and then spin it the rest of the way off. Hold the bag/filter in place until all the oil drips stop. Clean filter swap.

[ajhamzehpour]

[QUOTE=UNSTUCK;800022]

Get the filter loose then slide a zip lock or other plastic bag over the filter and then spin it the rest of the way off. Hold the bag/filter in place until all the oil drips stop. Clean filter swap.

Great suggestion. Regarding 36MM socket, is that preferred over using an oil filter wrench? Also, I don't have quick access to the Indmar 5w-30 synthetic blend. Any alternatives I can grab from Napa/O-Reilly/Wal-Mart? And I'm guessing auto oil is fine.

[freeheel4life]

[QUOTE=ajhamzehpour;800025]

Great suggestion. Regarding 36MM socket, is that preferred over using an oil filter wrench? Also, I don't have quick access to the Indmar 5w-30 synthetic blend. Any alternatives I can grab from Napa/O-Reilly/Wal-Mart? And I'm guessing auto oil is fine.

If its the paper cartridge filter the filter is inside of a plastic housing and has a big nut molded into the plastic housing to take the cap off and access the filter. That nut is 36MM. If its a metal canister then a filter wrench is the ticket

Any SN rated 5w 30 technically meets requirements. Auto parts store stuff is fine. I like Castrol's synth blend.

[UNSTUCK]

I just got my oil analysis back from Blackstone. That sample had 53 hours on it. I have since added 11 more and figure I'll add 10 more through the season. With a high TBN, low/no fuel or insolubles, I don't see the viscosity dropping much more in 20 hours. The iron and copper is very interesting to me. A new engine will show high content in these until it's broken in and will quickly taper off. With 174 hours at the time of this sample I would have expected to numbers to be low now and the engine fully broken in. So either these engines take far longer to break in then anyone has previously suggested (necessitating 20ish hour oil changes), or it's a fluke (happens), or my engine is already eating itself up (unlikely). Keep in mind, 174 hours on a new Ford truck is likely to be under 8000 miles. Most people would say a truck with 8000 miles isn't broken in yet. What do we learn from all this? Nothing really. It takes 3-4 samples before you really start seeing a trend. I'll get a sample again next season at 50 hours and see what happens. I will change this oil when I winterize it next month.

Oil Analysis Tige 9-2018.jpg