Supercharger bolt-on

[Germaine Marine]

Waayyyy to much aft weight. You dont nearly have the hull available to run the correct bow weight to account for that. I know you are testing but that is so counter productive to how that hull runs. You cant slam it to the moon like that because the hull can handle the amount of bow weight to get the orientation correct. Whether you are running mild weight or big weight the hull is best going through the water one way. Thats a certain pitch degree and a certain roll degree. No debate, thats just the truth. Plates are used to delay and to knock down the wash and thats it.

That boat is best ran at around 9.5 degrees of bow rise and around 4-5 degrees of roll. You can sink it to your hearts content so as long the boat stays at those.

Its hard for people to grasp but just throwing weight in it wont make it better and sometimes will make it worse. Weight has to be added with a purpose...

[NICKYPOO]

One other thing on Zack’s boat, the throttle is super sensitive. I got to drive it yesterday and just putting it in gear, either forward or reverse, made it jump. You can’t hardly just put it in gear. Is that normal?

[Zackdogg]

Waayyyy to much aft weight. You dont nearly have the hull available to run the correct bow weight to account for that. I know you are testing but that is so counter productive to how that hull runs. You cant slam it to the moon like that because the hull can handle the amount of bow weight to get the orientation correct. Whether you are running mild weight or big weight the hull is best going through the water one way. Thats a certain pitch degree and a certain roll degree. No debate, thats just the truth. Plates are used to delay and to knock down the wash and thats it.

That boat is best ran at around 9.5 degrees of bow rise and around 4-5 degrees of roll. You can sink it to your hearts content so as long the boat stays at those.

Its hard for people to grasp but just throwing weight in it wont make it better and sometimes will make it worse. Weight has to be added with a purpose...

I read the thread that you had written awhile back, helping a guy with bad actuators trying to dial his wave with goofy *** settings. I’ve always used those rise and lean numbers the best I can to try and dial my wave. My bow rise is perfect according to that, always 9 or 10, but I’ve been having a hell of a time getting the lean, that you suggest.. I guess it’s back to the drawing board to try and get that lean.. even if it’s no, or little weight on the off side, for me. The way I’ve been doing it has been adding as much weight to where I could maintain speed first, getting the bow rise second, and putting the lean last. Sounds like I should worry about bow rise and lean, then worry about weight, kinda last.


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[UNSTUCK]

I read the thread that you had written awhile back, helping a guy with bad actuators trying to dial his wave with goofy *** settings. I’ve always used those rise and lean numbers the best I can to try and dial my wave.

Funny you mention that. I printed off the post where Jason gives out those number and put it in my glovebox. Guess I should have referred to them on this trip.

Waayyyy to much aft weight. You dont nearly have the hull available to run the correct bow weight to account for that. I know you are testing but that is so counter productive to how that hull runs. You cant slam it to the moon like that because the hull can handle the amount of bow weight to get the orientation correct. Whether you are running mild weight or big weight the hull is best going through the water one way. Thats a certain pitch degree and a certain roll degree. No debate, thats just the truth. Plates are used to delay and to knock down the wash and thats it.

That boat is best ran at around 9.5 degrees of bow rise and around 4-5 degrees of roll. You can sink it to your hearts content so as long the boat stays at those.

It's hard for people to grasp but just throwing weight in it wont make it better and sometimes will make it worse. Weight has to be added with a purpose...

I know it's hard to tell from the pictures, but are you thinking that I have too much bow rise or not enough? Most of the time I can see over the bow just fine without using the seat bolster while driving. I assume that's normal for a 6' tall guy?

Would you recommend setting up the pitch and roll with all the taps plates in a fully stowed position or maybe get them to a 4/4 setting and then adjust weight to get the right pitch and roll? Seeing that the Tige Clear doesn't have pitch and roll I'd be using my phone for those duties. I assume just put it across the dash or is there a more specific place to take the readings?

Thanks for the help.

[Zackdogg]

One other thing on Zack’s boat, the throttle is super sensitive. I got to drive it yesterday and just putting it in gear, either forward or reverse, made it jump. You can’t hardly just put it in gear. Is that normal?

I had always assumed it was the electronic throttle, but I’d be interested if that’s wrong. Guess I am just used to it. It definitely feels a lot different than a cable throttle!


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[Zackdogg]

Funny you mention that. I printed off the post where Jason gives out those number and put it in my glovebox. Guess I should have referred to them on this trip.



I know it's hard to tell from the pictures, but are you thinking that I have too much bow rise or not enough? Most of the time I can see over the bow just fine without using the seat bolster while driving. I assume that's normal for a 6' tall guy?

Would you recommend setting up the pitch and roll with all the taps plates in a fully stowed position or maybe get them to a 4/4 setting and then adjust weight to get the right pitch and roll? Seeing that the Tige Clear doesn't have pitch and roll I'd be using my phone for those duties. I assume just put it across the dash or is there a more specific place to take the readings?

Thanks for the help.

Smarter than me! I don’t know how many times I’ve had to find that thread on my phone, hope I had the service to do it on the water, try to see it in the sun, and try to replicate what Jason told him to do. It’s always been my go-to when trying new things with the wave. I think I assumed that the plates had more to do with developing the wave, than they actually do, as well.



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[Germaine Marine]

Funny you mention that. I printed off the post where Jason gives out those number and put it in my glovebox. Guess I should have referred to them on this trip.



I know it's hard to tell from the pictures, but are you thinking that I have too much bow rise or not enough? Most of the time I can see over the bow just fine without using the seat bolster while driving. I assume that's normal for a 6' tall guy?

Would you recommend setting up the pitch and roll with all the taps plates in a fully stowed position or maybe get them to a 4/4 setting and then adjust weight to get the right pitch and roll? Seeing that the Tige Clear doesn't have pitch and roll I'd be using my phone for those duties. I assume just put it across the dash or is there a more specific place to take the readings?

Thanks for the help.

4-4 set pitch and roll after plates are down. I use the 1 rule. You can go one plate change in either direction from those numbers with the weight correct. If you cant get to the right numbers with a one number change then your weight is wrong.

Without even looking at the weight inside the boat, the wave shape tells me you have way too much pitch..... I dont want to say you its over weight in the rear rather that its underweighted in the nose. Im all for sinking them but people have to remember that you can take a boat slam it with 5k in the rear and get **** for a wave and take the same boat with 3K evenly distributed to get the correct roll and pitch and get 10X the wave.

Science is pretty cool, and if we have a formula that allows us to get to the same thing every time, guess what? You can have a perfectly repeatable scenario.

Autowake for example tuning the boat based on those numbers. Its obviously using a draft sensor to measure how deep the hull is but if we take X amount of weight out each time and use it all then we can roughly get the same results.

Tune to the numbers, ill say it over and over...

[Germaine Marine]

Personally I run all ballast full including pnp. I stick 400 in the nose in lead and I run 500 of lead in the rear surf locker and all I do is move it rider to rider on whatever the surf side is. The boat is almost always right on doing that..

[Germaine Marine]

All day with a stock Rzx3 *NO PNP* This is merely to show you that sometimes you have to understand how the hull works before you start taking it up a notch. People say you cant get a clean wave from an Rzx3, this is proof that people are full of it...

[UNSTUCK]

One other thing on Zack’s boat, the throttle is super sensitive. I got to drive it yesterday and just putting it in gear, either forward or reverse, made it jump. You can’t hardly just put it in gear. Is that normal?

My throttle goes right into forward or reverse with very little stick movement. Like just enough to get past the neutral lock. After that the engine stays at idle speed for probably 10-15 degrees of stick movement, in either direction. I like the way it works, but yes, it is very different than a cable throttle.

All day with a stock Rzx3 *NO PNP*

Great advice in all your posts above. Do you know what speed the boat was going in this video? Seems like 11.2 is kind of the standard. I assume we should be going fast with more weight and slower with less weight?

[Zackdogg]

Hey dudes! Hope everyone got some lake time in this weekend!

Got some more testing done with that new prop, again this weekend.. also got the leaky ballast bag replaced. Was on 2 different lakes. First was at 5200’ elevation. Only 3 of us, with 2 of us being heavy guys. Filled all the ballast, just to see if it would push us, also had 500 lbs lead, 150 bow, 350 in the surf locker. We hit 12 mph pretty easily in surf mode.

Saturday night/ Sunday we were at our home lake at about 4,000’, 10 people on the boat, all sizes, including 2 kids. Filled the ballast to the brim, and 500 lead, again. Hit 12mph, in surf mode, pretty easily. Also tried to hit wakeboard speed with 50% ballast across the board, and weren’t even close to that, but that was more of a test that anything I thought would actually happen. Got to 15-ish real slow, and never saw anymore.. too much weight..

Either way, this prop made a big difference.. and is saving me a bunch of pulling out hair, which I don’t have much to spare!

I think the 2:1 is the real fix. I tach out at 33mph now, and burn a bunch of extra fuel, but I can move the weight that this boat was designed for, finally, it’s only took 3” less pitch on the prop!

I think Kell got some pictures of our wave while testing, I’ll throw them up later, if she did. We also did a bunch of playing with tuning the boat to the lean/rise per Jason’s thoughts, and we got some nice waves.. we were messing with different variables so much it was a little tricky at times, at one point my offside ballast was close to empty, but we got some good riding in!

Thank you all for brainstorming this with me!!!!


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[Zackdogg]

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[bsreid]

Setup? It’s clean but a little small

[Zackdogg]

It was a super small crew, for us, only 3 people in the boat..

I think regular, we had 100% rear left, 65% rear right, 100% front, 350 lead left surf locker, 150 lead bow, 4/4 taps/surf.

Goofy was like 100% right rear, 50% left rear, 100% right front, 50% left front, 350 lead right surf locker, 150 lead bow, 3/5 taps/surf.

Most of the setup was from talking to you, and to Jason’s lean/bow rise numbers.. I need some more lead.. I may actually try all 500 lead in the rear corners, next weekend... we’ll see how we hit plane without and weight in the front, or stick some crew up there..


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[bsreid]

Right now that’s a super steep wave. If you run more offside ballast it will definitely flatten out some more. It always looks different with no rider too