Custom Taps plate and FAE Install....HELP!

[Robmc9]

It finally summer up her in Canada and its install day on the tapes plate I bought and the FAE (dual exhaust) but since I'm no where close to a supplies I'm curious on how you take off the existing plate? And any other advice on installing either the plate or the FAE would be great? Is the only way to get the old Taps plate off by grinding the rivots?

[JohnnieMo]

That’s what I did. Then I used stainless bolts to reattach.

[Av8tor]

I did the plate and yes had to grind out the rivets. Pretty easy with a zirc or ceramic resin fiber disc or flap disc, if you have access to a grinder, pneumatic or electric.

[Surf406]

3m black marine adhesive for your fae to install it

[NICKYPOO]

I’ve always just drilled rivets out. That way you don’t damage the plate.

[Jetdriver]

I’d drill the rivets out too.

RE: the FAE-which one did you get? 3 piece or 1 piece? How is yours supported? Swim deck mount or trim tab? Trim tab is easiest and best IMO.
I can almost guarantee that FAE didn’t send you hardware (stainless screws) that are the right size. The ones going back in need to be at least as thick and at least a 1/4” longer than what you remove or it won’t hold like it needs to.
Dry fit everything then you’ll have to cut one side of your support bars to length (easy enough just make sure your pipe is straight where you want it then measure trim tab bracket bolt hole middle to FAE support flange bolt hole middle and add a half inch or so to the uncut size, drill your hole and cut the bar) there will be two bars to cut with the dual outlet. You may have to drill another hole in your trim tab brackets as well or widen one as FAE will sometimes not get the screw pattern of your trim plate right. No biggie.
It’s a pretty straightforward install. Use a good marine adhesive like 3M 5200 or similar to bond the pipe to the exhaust flange, the brackets to the trim plate and in all the screw holes and on the screw threads For final assembly.
Let it dry a couple days for best hold then recheck it’s all still tight after you use it the first couple times.

I hope you got the flappers with your order as they are a crucial safeguard for your engine whatever anyone else says. I unfortunately know first hand why. Feel free to PM me with any FAE install questions, I’ve mounted 5 on different boats so far.

[NICKYPOO]

^^^I’ve never had, nor even heard of any issue of going without the flappers. I’ve been running the same FAE for 10+ years. I’ve installed two others. What the hell happened?

[Jetdriver]

^^^I’ve never had, nor even heard of any issue of going without the flappers. I’ve been running the same FAE for 10+ years. I’ve installed two others. What the hell happened?

Basically the perfect storm for an FAE without flappers.
When I bought mine Larry assured me there was never any issue with not using the and it made sense to me as with a functioning boat there shouldn’t be. I may well be the first (read unlucky moron) to have this happen.

My boat overheated because of a clogged strainer and the engine ECM high temp safety shut it down. I was on plane at the time and when the boat sank into the water the lack of exhaust pressure allowed all that water to rush up the pipe right over the risers into my cylinders and hydrolocked the engine. I was super lucky I didn’t trash my engine. Ended up just having to pull the plugs to drain the water, cycle the starter to push excess water out the plug holes used a bunch of WD -40 to lube the cylinder walls and rings, cycled the starter again to get as much out as possible then prayed for the best. Did a compression test on each cylinder and got away without spending major time and $$.
I was lucky to not warp the head from overheating and not bend any internal components from hydrolocking it.
I let Larry at FAE know about his systems achilles heel so to speak, and I noticed shortly after the description of flappers and recommendation to use them changed on their website.

It’s a cheap and easy retrofit and I highly recommend as a fail safe.

[NICKYPOO]

Wow. Never really considered it a possibility, but there you go. Thanks for the heads up.

[Jetdriver]

Wow. Never really considered it a possibility, but there you go. Thanks for the heads up.

Neither did the manufacturer of the pipe. It’s a remote chance it will happen but it most definitely can. Better to pay the $40 extra and not have a chance of it happening.

This is how my screen looked after I started investigating. This was after one outing, maybe a total of 4 hours run time prior to the last cleaning. I have since replaced the screen with a less fine version that has been working flawlessly since.

9A6D6D1D-E1A3-4E5C-BE1C-169374B2D857.jpg

[Stingreye]

Basically the perfect storm for an FAE without flappers.
When I bought mine Larry assured me there was never any issue with not using the and it made sense to me as with a functioning boat there shouldn’t be. I may well be the first (read unlucky moron) to have this happen.

My boat overheated because of a clogged strainer and the engine ECM high temp safety shut it down. I was on plane at the time and when the boat sank into the water the lack of exhaust pressure allowed all that water to rush up the pipe right over the risers into my cylinders and hydrolocked the engine. I was super lucky I didn’t trash my engine. Ended up just having to pull the plugs to drain the water, cycle the starter to push excess water out the plug holes used a bunch of WD -40 to lube the cylinder walls and rings, cycled the starter again to get as much out as possible then prayed for the best. Did a compression test on each cylinder and got away without spending major time and $$.
I was lucky to not warp the head from overheating and not bend any internal components from hydrolocking it.
I let Larry at FAE know about his systems achilles heel so to speak, and I noticed shortly after the description of flappers and recommendation to use them changed on their website.

It’s a cheap and easy retrofit and I highly recommend as a fail safe.

I would make sure you don't have a leak in your riser before using the engine too much. The boat is still moving forward coming off plane. While you can get water push against the transom a bit, the odds of water going up the down pipe, towards the engine, up another pipe and then into engine while possible, just seems like it would have to make a difficult path (not saying it didn't happen just guessing). I have heard the flappers are only for leaks inside the submerged part of your exhaust that will slow down water entry so the bilge can keep up.

So while what you said could happen, I would at least eliminate other possibilities of water intrusion so you don't hydro lock the motor again.

[Jetdriver]

Thanks for the tip Stingreye. There are no leaks, boats ran perfect since last summer and I use it a lot.
I know it sounds hard to believe but it really is the only explanation that fits. No leaks in the head gasket or risers, no block cracks, etc... i did a leak down test and compression test before I fired it back up. She’s been purring like a kitten since I got it unlocked. I dodged a bullet!
While the boat is moving forward still it is rapidly slowing and there is quite a bit of water pressure pushing on the hull from a fully weighted boat sinking in the water. If there’s a hole water will get in it with the right push.

[tigemech]

I would make sure you don't have a leak in your riser before using the engine too much. The boat is still moving forward coming off plane. While you can get water push against the transom a bit, the odds of water going up the down pipe, towards the engine, up another pipe and then into engine while possible, just seems like it would have to make a difficult path (not saying it didn't happen just guessing). I have heard the flappers are only for leaks inside the submerged part of your exhaust that will slow down water entry so the bilge can keep up.

So while what you said could happen, I would at least eliminate other possibilities of water intrusion so you don't hydro lock the motor again.

Its the wave you created that crashes against the back of the boat that causes the water to go up the exhaust.

[BCRider]

Jetdriver: That was me 2 years ago. For me I had turned off the ball valve for the fresh water intake as I was tightening the collar on my driveshaft due to a water leak and forgot to open it again when we were done. Couple days later put the boat in the water and idled about 200 yards before the boat started beeping at me for high temp. Turned the boat off and waited for a while. Went to turn the boat over and heard horrible noises. Got towed back to the dock and that evening I drove home and tore down the whole motor in my neighbors driveway to remove all of the water. Next morning we went to the local parts depot and got new seals/gaskets and threw it all back together. Less than 24 hours later we were water testing out at the local lake. Everything has been fine since as well.

OP: I used a cutting wheel to remove the existing. Note that 2 of the screws that hold the transom plate on are actually through bolted and not screws. On my era boat anyway.

[Stingreye]

Jetdrive, great to hear its running well! I know I have wondered about when HEAVILY ballasted about how high the water gets in the exhaust system. Boatwakes and I were talking one year about if it would be worth getting a spacer plate to raise the exhaust further for heavily ballasted surfing.