Recommendations for single rider "battle tubes"?

[IDBoating]

We keep a pair of what I call "battle tubes" on hand. We run two long lines off the stern, hook one tube to each, and drive the boat to have them hop the wakes and bash into each other while the riders try to kick each other off their tubes. They're like a set of human "clacker balls" from the 70's. I know this is perhaps not always the intended use for these things but it's probably the most entertaining boating activity we do - for the passengers in the boat, that is! {grin}

On our present pair the interior walls have separated from the outer walls, such that they're becoming more spherical than disk shaped. Makes for some really wild rides - it's a disadvantage in terms of stability, but like a fighter jet that instability can be used by a clever rider to steer and control impacts. It's time to replace them again.

We've learned there are subtle differences in these tubes. Where the tow point is located, for example, has a huge impact on how it rides over the water and whether it is likely to dive after landing a wake jump.

Any recommendations for tubes to favor or avoid? The market seems to change every year so I don't know what's "good" and "bad". I don't mind buying last year's model if its known to be a good choice, and I bet eBay is full of overstocks. We prefer those that have an inner inflatable tube and a heavier outer protective sleeve, such that the top and bottom surfaces are flat rather than with a hole like a doughnut.

Thanks!

[Powday]

We use the two Obrien Le Tubes with equal length ropes that come as a package from Overton's. On our second season with them and quality/durability has been good so far. The tubes are stable enough for our younger kids to be bumped around without being dumped too easily. We avoid putting two people of vastly different weights on at the same time as the heavier person clobbers the lighter person. Tons of fun and here's a pic from this past weekend.

https://www.overtons.com/product/det...Ropes&i=309231

[Jetdriver]

I’ve got an O’brien screamer that is a flat towable. Its affordable and has held up to all kinds of abuse. We usually do a three tube carnage session a couple times a summer, evenly spaced as it takes 2-3 weeks to recover from the injuries sustained!
My personal favorite tube is the 2 person gladiator big brawler. It can be pulled from the front (sled style) or the back (chariot style). My friends and I like to ride it 2 person and see how long you can stay on without using your hands at all. Makes for some spectacular bails!

[IDBoating]

We use the two Obrien Le Tubes...

Thanks, but they're the "doughnut" style with the hole in the middle. We prefer those that are flat on top, because riders can then adopt various stances. My preference is hands and knees, crouching low to keep the center of gravity low, so I can shift my body around to keep from flipping AND kick my leg at my opponent to knock him off his tube. Can't do that when your butt is stuck in a hole!

[IDBoating]

I’ve got an O’brien screamer that is a flat towable. Its affordable and has held up to all kinds of abuse.

Perfect! It has a flat top with the grip pads. Looks like the standard one is about $120 and the "Super" is about $160. Which do you have? What's the difference - just size?

[Jetdriver]

I’ve got the original screamer. It’s a one person, the super screamer is a two person. They make an ultra screamer 3 person too.

A little cheaper here...
4012792F-349D-4ECB-BBD1-20B42822E0BD.jpg

[whiteflash watersports]

We use the screamer for this type of tubing as well. Works well and they have held up over the years.

[IDBoating]

Sounds like the Screamer is the tube of choice for human clacker ball. Thanks for the recommendations!

[UNSTUCK]

Man, I gotta get on your boat! Sounds like no shortage of a good time there. Although I'm not sure about this "clacker ball" thing. I try to avoid clacking my balls.

[IDBoating]

You have no idea. See these images for some examples....

[GzeroX5]

This looks like a blast! I just picked up a couple of screamers and would like to hear more about attachment points. Is it better from the ski pylon or the tower?

[IDBoating]

NEVER from a tower. Never pull inflatables from a tower. If they submarine, the instantaneous stress is transferred to the tower and its attachment points on the hull, often resulting in spider cracks in your gelcoat - or worse. Many towers have warning labels specifically warning against pulling inflatables.

Our 24Ve didn't come with an attachment point we liked, so I contacted Tige's swim platform handle manufacturer and had them make us a custom handle with an integrated, strong attachment point. I then installed that with a very large aluminum backing plate to distribute the force across a large surface area of the transom. It looks factory but is much, much stronger. Note especially the two additional thrubolts right next to the rope attachment point, which then pass through the backing plate inside the transom. One additional strengthening idea I had was to add a fiber-reinforced epoxy bed behind the backing plate so more of its surface contacts the curved interior of the transom, but the transom is quite thick there and the curve already adds reinforcement so I haven't done that yet.

EDIT: Here is the original factory handle:

Here is the replacement:

Here is the backing plate:

[Jetdriver]

NEVER from a tower. Never pull inflatables from a tower. If they submarine, the instantaneous stress is transferred to the tower and its attachment points on the hull, often resulting in spider cracks in your gelcoat - or worse. Many towers have warning labels specifically warning against pulling inflatables.

^I agree although if you really wanna see someone fly on a tube....haha