Taps guage not working - any idea why?

[tobike]

My taps gauge on the dash isn't working. Stuck at #1 position. The taps plate moves up and down if I hit the switch but have no way to know where the setting is. Any ideas what the problem would be? Wasn't sure if it would be the gauge or if it was a relay, etc.

It happened after I did a calibrate on the TAPS system. The gauge started going top to bottom and stopping all over in between. This went on for 20 minutes before it quit. I assume it damaged the system but no sure what part.

Boat is a 2012 Tige RZR.

Thanks

[KoolAid]

Its either the Trim Tab Module or the coil in the actuator is shot.

Pull the trim tab module out from under the dash on the 4 pin plug. Check ohm reading across the two white wires. If 240ohms, actuator is good and most likely trim tab module is bad. If 1.1 actuator wiring is crossed somewhere. If OL then the coil is bad.

[MikeB313]

My 2012 RZ2 did the same thing, but would come back when I shut the boat off. Does it read correctly under your "Gauges" screen?

[tobike]

Thanks. I will check tonight. Is there a way to know which of the modules is the trim tab module? From what I recall, there are a lot of wires, relays, etc. under the dash and I wasn't sure which were part of the TAPS system.

[tobike]

How can i tell which is the trim tab module under the dash?

[KoolAid]

20180620_131004.jpg
Looks like this. Check for power and ground at the D and C wires.
Then check you ohm reading at the AB wires.

[tobike]

Ok, I checked the Tige Touch display and it also reads the same readout as the dash gauge. Both stuck on the same number. Assuming I did it correctly, I got zero ohms at the AB wires. So does this imply the coil in the actuator is bad?

[KoolAid]

Ok, I checked the Tige Touch display and it also reads the same readout as the dash gauge. Both stuck on the same number. Assuming I did it correctly, I got zero ohms at the AB wires. So does this imply the coil in the actuator is bad?

Most likely, yes. Unless the wire is severed. Just to make sure, go to the transom on the starboard side. Find the green wire that comes out of the actuator. Clip it in an area you can access it. Tie those two wires together. Re check reading at the dash. you should see 1.1ohms. This will verify its the coil and not a disconnected wire along the path. Plus if the actuator coil is bad, you will already have the wires cut :-)