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2007 RZ2 MP 340 Starts and immediately dies

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    #31
    If it is water you will have to run it quite a bit to get it run because the filter will be full of water. dose that make sense. you could do the same thing when you get the hose off the filter that goes to the tank the anti syphon valve will stop you from getting a large sample but you might be able to get enough to see if the bottom of the tank has water.

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      #32
      I agree with twin get it from the fuel rail. the easy place to go and tell you what is there. Just be careful don't get a bunch of gas all over while smoking.

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        #33
        Try unplugging one sensor at a time then cranking. I'd start with the MAP sensor. If stays running you found your headache.

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          #34
          It could be the cool fuel has a hole in it. HIGHLY UNLIKELY but lets say it dose there would be no water in the tank or filter but there would be at the rail. not that this is your problem just saying why i would start at the rail.
          The MAP should be out of the equation the boat is cold and will not run with the throttle cracked.
          Last edited by gumby; 06-26-2018, 09:36 PM.

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            #35
            Originally posted by twinturbostroker View Post
            Given the rig was running like a champ the day before and the problem exhibited itself after you added fuel.

            It's highly probable you've got some bad fuel in the system.

            I've had good results by disconnecting at the fuel rail and pumping into a fuel can, (then pouring from the can into a glass container) to quickly determine if there is water in the system.

            I have added an inline fuel/water separator immediately after the fuel tank pickup, factory system is just uses a filter on the intake of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and (it is not a fuel water separator).

            Motor will start and run when either pump goes bad, (albeit poorly), and given your FP readings, it does not appear to be a supply issue.

            Injectors do not fail collectively, unless there is an ECM signal failure.

            You can check your injector pulse with a NOID light, (again doubtful this is an issue), given the way your symptoms presented themselves.

            I'm leaning towards fuel quality, if not then I would lean towards an ignition related failure.

            I've seen a bad ignition switch cause this problem, power on crank, but none when the key returned to the run position.
            What type of filter did you add to the line prior to the factory filter?

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              #36
              Originally posted by bamaboy2006 View Post
              What type of filter did you add to the line prior to the factory filter?
              Just one of these, simple and effective.

              Attached Files
              Last edited by twinturbostroker; 06-27-2018, 03:46 AM.

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                #37
                Lots of things to try, hope you get it fixed quickly!

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by twinturbostroker View Post
                  Just one of these, simple and effective.

                  [ATTACH]48868[/ATTACH]
                  Thanks. You just installed between tank and low pressure pump? Is it 3/8” hose?

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                    #39
                    Going to try to run it off a gas can today. Fingers crossed!

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by bamaboy2006 View Post
                      Going to try to run it off a gas can today. Fingers crossed!
                      Get yourself a set of these (or rent them from your local parts store).

                      I connect a battery charger on the cranking battery to help offset the additional current draw, while cycling the fuel pumps, to pump out the bad gas.

                      Remove the feed line at the rail and purge the fuel from the HPFP filter and feed line with the new fuel drawing from the fresh fuel in the can, you’ll need to cycle the key a few times.

                      Reconnect your feed line to the rail, cycle the fuel pumps again.

                      I purge the air from the lines by slightly depressing the schrader valve on the rail after cycling the key a few times.

                      A small screwdriver with a rag positioned underneath and around the valve to help catch any spray, and of course wear safety glasses.

                      Once you get a good fuel source to the lines, you should be good to go.

                      I’ve had pump gas bad directly out of the pump a few times and had issues anytime I ran an ethanol based fuel and the boat sat for more than a 7-10 days.

                      After I rebuilt my fuel system and saw the damage the ethanol based fuel caused the pumps and injectors, I’ll never run that **** in my boat again.

                      Now it’s non-ethanol only and every now and then a little leftover Sunoco 110 (leaded) from the race car.

                      F46ED93E-9797-4428-8AC9-4D627259A2D5.jpeg

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by twinturbostroker View Post
                        Get yourself a set of these (or rent them from your local parts store).

                        I connect a battery charger on the cranking battery to help offset the additional current draw, while cycling the fuel pumps, to pump out the bad gas.

                        Remove the feed line at the rail and purge the fuel from the HPFP filter and feed line with the new fuel drawing from the fresh fuel in the can, you’ll need to cycle the key a few times.

                        Reconnect your feed line to the rail, cycle the fuel pumps again.

                        I purge the air from the lines by slightly depressing the schrader valve on the rail after cycling the key a few times.

                        A small screwdriver with a rag positioned underneath and around the valve to help catch any spray, and of course wear safety glasses.

                        Once you get a good fuel source to the lines, you should be good to go.

                        I’ve had pump gas bad directly out of the pump a few times and had issues anytime I ran an ethanol based fuel and the boat sat for more than a 7-10 days.

                        After I rebuilt my fuel system and saw the damage the ethanol based fuel caused the pumps and injectors, I’ll never run that **** in my boat again.

                        Now it’s non-ethanol only and every now and then a little leftover Sunoco 110 (leaded) from the race car.

                        [ATTACH]48886[/ATTACH]
                        Thanks. I figured this out this afternoon when I went to removed the line from the rail. By the time I realized I needed these I had to quit for the day. Going to try to find a set in the morning.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Do you think I should pull my impeller out since I will be dry cranking engine a few times to try the new gas. Pretty easy to pull out and don’t want to damage. Just didn’t know if there was a reason not too.

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                            #43
                            If you are cranking yes. Can't you hook up a fake lake? That way you will be prepared if it dose run.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by gumby View Post
                              If you are cranking yes. Can't you hook up a fake lake? That way you will be prepared if it dose run.
                              Don’t have one handy. I will just pull the impeller. If it runs more than a few seconds I know I am right track and shouldn’t get hot enough to hurt anything

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Well tried fresh gas in a can and no luck. Same thing starts right up and dies.

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