https://marineenginedepot.com/MP/Mar...talled-Cooler/
looks like this, on the port side.
looks like this, on the port side.
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Ok I will take a shot here.I don't know a lot about your year. Will it stay running if you pull your pin and just rev the motor? or start it with the throttle cracked a little. this should take the IAC(idle air control) motor out of the equasion I think the ECM/ECU temp sensor will still be in play at this point. If it will run this way it will be very rich (black smoke) rough idle just keep it going till the temp comes up to a normal then shut it off see it will re fire, IF it dose then one of a couple things IAC bad ( not likely but could be) ECM/ECU temp sensor ( more likely)
Now if it would start and you can't keep it running with the throttle cracked and playing with it the hole time trying to keep it running. you will need to get a sample of fuel at the fuel rail.( at least a pint) in a glass jar let it settle see if it has water in it. (the water will be on the bottom) The safest way is with a fuel pressure tester with a bleed off valve. Turn the key on and off till you get your sample. you can also remove the line at the rail. just be careful jar with a lid and a hole in it might be a good idea.(you just don't want gas every were) If you have water get out your syphon hose get it out of the tank got to get most of it out it is on the the bottom. so park the boat nose up hill.(assuming your fill is at the rear of the tank) refill with new fuel change the filter. start the boat with the tung of the trailer as low as you can.(like on the ground) water you couldn't get out will go to the front.
If your sample didn't have water then we are on to bigger problems we will have to check some other things that you may not have tools for like loss of spark after ignition. injector pulse. but you got enough to get started hope this helps. Remember i don't know a lot about your year boat. Just wanted to try to help you been down for a couple weeks.Comment
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It is below the high pressure pump, there Are 2 ingle wire electrical connectors that push onto the pump(I have seen this come off before) and hoses for the cooling coil that run to the impeller housing.
Usually if it is the low pressure pump the engine will idle but won’t handle any load without backfiring.Comment
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So i said all of that and thought you have tested your fuel pressure but you haven't.(my bad) gas at the valve is not fuel pressure it could be 10 psi and will shoot all over, but the boat will not run on 10 psi.. check with a gage first.Comment
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Just checked the fuel pressure and it was 56 psi at the valve on fuel rail.Comment
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I am not ruling out bad gas but I have gone through that before and the boat just didn’t go from running perfectly to not cranking at all. I just filled it up so this will be fun to drain. I guess that’s my next step.Comment
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I have the gforce fuel system if that matters. There are two hoses going to the canister that holds the fuel filter and the high pressure pump coming from the impeller housing. I have not seen anything that looks like the pump in the picture above.Originally posted by dj2 View PostComment
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I have the same fuel system, there are 2 lines running to the high pressure pump on the bottom for cooling, below that pump you should see the low pressure pump. Follow the fuel line that angles down off the top of the high pressure pump and it should take you to the low pressure pump.Originally posted by bamaboy2006 View Post
Did the fuel system stay at 56 PSI though out cranking and for the instance that the engine ran? The high pressure pump will prime and put 56 psi to the rail but not be able to keep up due to lack of volume coming from the low pressure pump. If you are seeing a constant 56 psi without a drop then your problem is likely electrical.Comment
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Pressure drops to around 36 psi while cranking goes back to 56 psi when it dies.Originally posted by dj2 View PostComment
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I would continue down the path of the low pressure pump, there is a big difference in 36 and 56 psi to those injectors. I assume when the engine fires it actually drops even lower as soon as the RPM try to pick up and is not supplying enough fuel/atomizing properly.Comment
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I asume will not run with the throttle cracked? 36psi should be enough to run it at an idle, I would think. so get a sample. A sample will save you from draining the entire tank and finding no water you could also get one from the filter but the rail would be better.Last edited by gumby; 06-26-2018, 07:46 PM.Comment
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I talked to someone a Marine Power and they said those #'s were acceptable and the engine should be able to run with those pressures. He advised to put the pick up line from fuel tank and a jug of fresh gas and try that. I will give that a shot this afternoon and see what happens. I really wish the fuel filter was easier to remove so I could dump the crappy gas out of it. I had to remove the entire assembly from the boat and put it in a vice to get the filter out. Maybe easier the 2nd time around.Originally posted by dj2 View PostComment
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No sir it will not run with the throttle down. Makes no difference.Originally posted by gumby View PostComment
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Given the rig was running like a champ the day before and the problem exhibited itself after you added fuel.
It's highly probable you've got some bad fuel in the system.
I've had good results by disconnecting at the fuel rail and pumping into a fuel can, (then pouring from the can into a glass container) to quickly determine if there is water in the system.
I have added an inline fuel/water separator immediately after the fuel tank pickup, factory system is just uses a filter on the intake of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and (it is not a fuel water separator).
Motor will start and run when either pump goes bad, (albeit poorly), and given your FP readings, it does not appear to be a supply issue.
Injectors do not fail collectively, unless there is an ECM signal failure.
You can check your injector pulse with a NOID light, (again doubtful this is an issue), given the way your symptoms presented themselves.
I'm leaning towards fuel quality, if not then I would lean towards an ignition related failure.
I've seen a bad ignition switch cause this problem, power on crank, but none when the key returned to the run position.Comment
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