When you had the hose off the rail did you get a sample of the fuel?
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2007 RZ2 MP 340 Starts and immediately dies
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OK think you might want to get on the list to get it into your mechanic. I don't think you have the tools to diagnose any further. Things you will need. node light, spark tester. fuel pressure gage. scan tool, Unless you feel up to the 3 hour drive to Nashville. I do have all the tools to help you. With out a good diagnoses you would just be hanging parts. That could get expensive. Things you will need to know pulse after start spark after start pressure after start.and a good look into the ECM/ECU.
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Originally posted by gumby View PostOK think you might want to get on the list to get it into your mechanic. I don't think you have the tools to diagnose any further. Things you will need. node light, spark tester. fuel pressure gage. scan tool, Unless you feel up to the 3 hour drive to Nashville. I do have all the tools to help you. With out a good diagnoses you would just be hanging parts. That could get expensive. Things you will need to know pulse after start spark after start pressure after start.and a good look into the ECM/ECU.
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Take the hose off between the low pressure pump and high pressure pump, check for volume of fuel - should be about 43 gallons per hour which about1 cup of fuel in 5 seconds. This will help remove the low pressure pump from the problem. From there I would replace the filter on the high pressure pump (if you pull it, you will likely never get the o-ring reinstalled because of swelling due to gasoline) the o-ring comes with the filters I have ordered in the past.
I hate to tell you to throw expensive parts at it but it is honestly behaving exactly like mine did when the high pressure pump went out. When I lost the low pressure pump it would start, run and rev up in neutral but start to backfire and detonate when a load was put on the engine.
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Originally posted by bamaboy2006 View PostDon’t have one handy. I will just pull the impeller. If it runs more than a few seconds I know I am right track and shouldn’t get hot enough to hurt anything
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Originally posted by dj2 View PostTake the hose off between the low pressure pump and high pressure pump, check for volume of fuel - should be about 43 gallons per hour which about1 cup of fuel in 5 seconds. This will help remove the low pressure pump from the problem. From there I would replace the filter on the high pressure pump (if you pull it, you will likely never get the o-ring reinstalled because of swelling due to gasoline) the o-ring comes with the filters I have ordered in the past.
I hate to tell you to throw expensive parts at it but it is honestly behaving exactly like mine did when the high pressure pump went out. When I lost the low pressure pump it would start, run and rev up in neutral but start to backfire and detonate when a load was put on the engine.
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No i don't believe they are OBD2 at least mine isn't.(like i said don't know a lot about your year) Trust me it is making me cray!!!! and i don't own the boat. Wish I could help more I know I could figure it out if I could get my hands on it. I feel so bad for you. Have you tried to reset the hole thing? (disconnect the battery) When it starts do you have oil pressure? Have you said how many hours? How dose it stall like you turned the key off or like it running out of gas? Have you done tap test on major sensors and ECM/ECU? Just trying to think of things I would check if it was in front of me.
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Originally posted by bamaboy2006 View PostI just changed filter. It filled up a 2l bottle with 3 cycles of the key with fuel line removed from the rail. Seems to have great pressure. I will try the low pressure pump tomorrow. Just seems like injectors are turning off or something. Heck I don’t know just grasping at straws. Is there a odb 2 port
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Originally posted by dj2 View PostI understand your frustration, fuel pressure is hard to test if the engine is not running. When I changed my HPFP I also paid a local shop to rebuild and flow test my injectors just in case.
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Originally posted by gumby View PostNo i don't believe they are OBD2 at least mine isn't.(like i said don't know a lot about your year) Trust me it is making me cray!!!! and i don't own the boat. Wish I could help more I know I could figure it out if I could get my hands on it. I feel so bad for you. Have you tried to reset the hole thing? (disconnect the battery) When it starts do you have oil pressure? Have you said how many hours? How dose it stall like you turned the key off or like it running out of gas? Have you done tap test on major sensors and ECM/ECU? Just trying to think of things I would check if it was in front of me.
Boats has 430hrs. Oil pressure gauge is digital and gauges go out when turning key over and come back on once started. Haven’t tried tapping on sensors. Really seems like key turning off. Really doesn’t hesitate or sputter. I have video of it doing it but I don’t think I can post here
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Originally posted by dj2 View Postjust an FYI, in a pinch you can use a toilet plunger (a new one please ) just cut an "X" in the rubber, cram the hose inside and then cut the handle down so that it will wedge under the boat.
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Originally posted by bamaboy2006 View PostCould a bad TPS sensor cause these issues? When you open the throttle up is the flap under the engine cover suppose to open and close? Just wondering because when I adjust the throttle while cranking it doesn’t do anything.
The ECM for Marine Power uses a marine specific diagnostic code reader called DIACOM.
The software and associated connecting cables is $699.
It does offer a considerable amount of data to reference, reads and clears codes, and records engine events.
After chasing a gremlin similar to yours I just opted to purchase the system myself, albeit it did not fix the problems I was encountering, it did help eliminate any/all ECM issues and control sensor guesswork.
Keep us posted on your progress.
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Originally posted by twinturbostroker View PostWhen ignition is powered to run, your throttle body’s intake butterfly should open when the throttle is lever is actuated. This issue could be caused by a bad throttle body or a TPS sensor, (of which there are 4 sensors that reference throttle position, for redundancy), two on the throttle handle (throttle position sensors) and two in the throttle body (pedal position sensors).
The ECM for Marine Power uses a marine specific diagnostic code reader called DIACOM.
The software and associated connecting cables is $699.
It does offer a considerable amount of data to reference, reads and clears codes, and records engine events.
After chasing a gremlin similar to yours I just opted to purchase the system myself, albeit it did not fix the problems I was encountering, it did help eliminate any/all ECM issues and control sensor guesswork.
Keep us posted on your progress.
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