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    Prop removal?

    Is there a nothing I can do to get the prop off short f buying a removal tool.

    If I have to buy a tool...prop puller or harmonic???
    Last edited by MJO21; 05-21-2018, 01:51 AM.

    #2
    They are a press-fit, so you are best to use some form or a proper removal tool in order to avoid injury or further damage.

    The c-clamp is the easiest to use. I use the harmonic on the shop.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      ^x2
      The harmonic puller is typically quite a bit quicker.
      If you use the clamp type make sure you leave the prop nut threaded loosely on the shaft to avoid the prop shooting off the shaft and damaging your hands and prop. When they pop loose it can scare the crap outta you!

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        #4
        The harmonic can be a little difficult to get the right angle to hit it in the trailer...least it was for me cause prop cage was in my way for a direct hit. If I had to do it again, I would probably get c-clamp puller for that reason and that its "guaranteed" to get prop off if you have the wrench. IMO, if you have never done it before, clamp may be easier.

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          #5
          Never used a harmonic style puller, but the C-Clamp is fast and easy. Its a weekend saver for sure.
          My life's journey is not ending up looking pretty, its sliding in broadside, used up, worn out, screaming "What a Ride"

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            #6
            Buy the C-clamp puller. Well worth the money and piece of mind knowing you aren't going to cause damage to your boat. And remember what Jetdriver said, keep the prop nut on loosely to keep the prop from flying off!!

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              #7
              Going to chime in with everyone else. I hate harmonic pullers. Unfortunately have had to use them on the RZX 2:1 as the ACME puller wont fit between prop and strut. The other tech I work with used to prefer the harmonic. One day he missed with the hammer and nailed his knuckle on the edge of a blade. Stitches was the result. C-clamp pullers are so much better IMO. If you have a prop that's really stuck up you can put a ton of tension in it then whack backside of puller with a hammer and they usually free up.

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                #8
                ^^^^ and read the c-clamp instructions. You just can crank on the jack-bolt and expect the prop to pop off. Seen a few broke clamp pullers this way.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #9
                  Another vote for C-Clamp puller.

                  I keep a spare prop handy, cotter pin, and shaft key, (weekend saver).

                  In the event a snapping turtle finds its way into one or more of the blades.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                    ^^^^ and read the c-clamp instructions. You just can't crank on the jack-bolt and expect the prop to pop off. Seen a few broke clamp pullers this way.
                    Fixed if for ya ;-)
                    Oh Yeah!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
                      Fixed if for ya ;-)
                      thanks, yes CANT crank it, it can break
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
                        Going to chime in with everyone else. I hate harmonic pullers. Unfortunately have had to use them on the RZX 2:1 as the ACME puller wont fit between prop and strut. The other tech I work with used to prefer the harmonic. One day he missed with the hammer and nailed his knuckle on the edge of a blade. Stitches was the result. C-clamp pullers are so much better IMO. If you have a prop that's really stuck up you can put a ton of tension in it then whack backside of puller with a hammer and they usually free up.
                        Just FYI for everyone with a 2:1. I called ACME and they do make a puller for the 1 1/4 shafts. Part number is 330S.

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                          #13
                          Picked up my weekend saver kit today...I had to hit that removal vice tool 10 times with a 2lbs hammer before it busted loose!!!i

                          I was wondering about the key. I used the new one even though it is about a third of the length of the original.....
                          .?

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                            #14
                            dont worry about the key length. as long as the prop is fully seated, the key plays only a small part.
                            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                              #15
                              Make sure the key is not wedged in up the taper. When you're done it should still be loose and pretty much up against the nut. If not you will have the prop slightly off center and it will plague you all season with oddball vibrations.

                              Ask me how I know.

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