22Ve Problems

[twinturbostroker]

Ok, while I believed to have searched and read just about every valid thread on this subject, I'm still running into challenges diagnosing the problem I'm encountering with my 22Ve.

2008 Ve
225 hours
Vortec 5.7
Original owner


The boat has a noticeable miss around 1300-1400 rpms and will not go above 30 mph and the throttle needs to be feathered to get it to come up on plain and attain the higher RPMs, (won't rev beyond 3000rpm under load). This problem seemed to have come and gone a few times, but now I cannot seem to overcome the issue, (after a forum search I ordered and replaced the fuel system). I've also replaced all wires, plugs, and cap and rotor, (prior to the fuel system) this seemed to help but now the issue/miss has returned.

Just installed
New Low pressure fuel pump
New High pressure fuel pump
New fuel filter (old one was clean)
Added Fuel water separator inline at tank prior to low pressure pump, trajectory and location of fuel line exactly the same.


After installing the fuel pumps, I had a very difficult time getting the boat to start and the miss is still apparent. When I finally, got the boat started it continued to struggle on restarts. given this I have not taken it off the lift, but was able to simulate a small load on the lift, and as of 6pm yesterday boat wouldn't start again.

I do not have any water in my fuel, fuel is good, new, and treated.

The new HPFP is making a little noise and is going to be swapped under warranty, fuel pressure at rail is good.

Compression checks out, all holes registering 185-187.

I purchased a cap rotor that had brass contacts, vs the aluminum ones, as the brass is a better conductor, although I'm wondering if this cap it creating a crossfire scenario.

Uncertain if this is a sensor issue, or throttle body issue, or just a simple cap and rotor problem.

Any assistance or guidance on where I can start to get this sorted out will be appreciated.

[chpthril]

Ok, so the new cap and rotor are installed and problem still there? What about wires and plugs? If they have not been changed in awhile, id change them. This does sound like ignition secondary.

[twinturbostroker]

Sorry, forgot to include.

I replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, the new stuff only has about 3-4 hours on it.

I'm leaning towards ignition myself.

I've ordered a new AC Delco cap and rotor today, and will likely order up a set of custom Taylor wires as well.

Thanks for the quick response, you're always a great help to everyone on the forums, wished you were closer to me so I could buy you a beer or two.

[freeheel4life]

Mike is usually right. The one other thing people tend to forget is you can have dirty injectors. Lots of youtube vids out there on how to clean em on a bench and "pop" them to check spray pattern when done. Or you can remove them and take them to an injector shop and they will clean them and check spray pattern when they are done. If you go this route be sure to put injectors in ASAP after picking them up from the shop. You can usually get a noid light kit at any parts house that has loaner tools and test injector signal as well.

http://www.cdielectronics.com/produc...ester-519-s48/

One of these guys can be handy for testing spark and firing order all in one shot. Be sure to pull either fuel pump fuse or relay if you have the plugs out.

[NICKYPOO]

Sounds kinda like injector failure. Did you clean the IAC valve? That can make it hard to start if it’s dirty. Probably not causing the miss though.

[little_criket]

Had a similar problem... change the cap, rotor, wires, plugs... still ran like crap did injectors, filters, etc... finally found one the new plugs was bad... lots of chasing my tail... good luck.

[chpthril]

@freeheel

will his generation ECM show specific cylinder misfire?

Hard to load up a boat engine on land, like you can with a car. Here is a trick that might find a cracked plug or wire issue. Take a 12V test light clipped to a good ground and run the probe tip around the plugs, the wire boots and even the boots at the cap and coil. If there is a point where the spark is jumping out under load, it will jump to the test light and create an engine mis.

[freeheel4life]

@freeheel

will his generation ECM show specific cylinder misfire?

Hard to load up a boat engine on land, like you can with a car. Here is a trick that might find a cracked plug or wire issue. Take a 12V test light clipped to a good ground and run the probe tip around the plugs, the wire boots and even the boots at the cap and coil. If there is a point where the spark is jumping out under load, it will jump to the test light and create an engine mis.

Unfortunately no cylinder specific misfire codes until later years. That is a cool trick. Thanks for passing that one along. IF boat is running I usually start cutting out injectors one at a time a listen for change vs no change to rule out injector vs ignition.
Honestly, at the point this poor guy is at I would do a quick test some frown on. Very SMALL shot of starting spray with TB plate open. Close it back up and crank. Pops and runs fine for a second I start looking at fuel. Doesnt fire I open TB a bit and crank, if it fires then I suspect IAC. If its still a no start its on to ignition diagnosis. Problem is guys get desperste with the spray.

[boatwakes]

Injector. Heres how to test without eco:
- run engine in neutral up to 1500rpm
- disconnect fuel injector wire connection beginning with cylinder 1 and listen for engine to lose about 100rpm. If it doesn't, thats a dead hole
- reconnect and move on to the rest of that bank, making sure to check all of them.
- identify how many and what location are faulty and order from fuelinjectorconnection.com
- check for spark on any dead cylinder using the $3 inline spark checker from the auto parts store


I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing all of them. Ethanol is a bitch and if one is down, its from the fuel and the rest may follow shortly unless you have a broken electrical terminal at the injector. There are two different injectors available but this is most likely the one you need (like 99%) https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/p...lphi-e10-ready. Here's the 1% https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/p...r-v8-e10-ready

[TigeFamily]

Injector. Heres how to test without eco:
- run engine in neutral up to 1500rpm
- disconnect fuel injector wire connection beginning with cylinder 1 and listen for engine to lose about 100rpm. If it doesn't, thats a dead hole
- reconnect and move on to the rest of that bank, making sure to check all of them.
- identify how many and what location are faulty and order from fuelinjectorconnection.com
- check for spark on any dead cylinder using the $3 inline spark checker from the auto parts store


I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing all of them. Ethanol is a bitch and if one is down, its from the fuel and the rest may follow shortly unless you have a broken electrical terminal at the injector. There are two different injectors available but this is most likely the one you need (like 99%) https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/p...lphi-e10-ready. Here's the 1% https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/p...r-v8-e10-ready

I suspect injectors too prob due to ethanol cause not a lot of hours on boat and it will run up the injectors after sitting a while that cleaner won't remove easily

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[twinturbostroker]

All,

Thanks to everyone for the additional insight on what and where to troubleshoot.

New cap rotor arrrived today, I’m hoping the replacement HPFP will arrive in the next couple days.

Planning to jump back on it tomorrow eve after work.

Going to pull and clean all injectors, swap cap and rotor, pull and inspect all plugs, verify firing order, and have a look at the crank sensor terminals.

Hopefully, I’ll get in front of this so I can get back out on the water.

[twinturbostroker]

Need a little help with injector part numbers
I-phone hinders net browsing ability.

Two numbers present on base of the injectors

8166
&
075071302

Engine is MPI Vortec 5.7

If anyone can provide some insight on injector size / type / voltage / and a OTC cross reference it would be appreciated.

[KoolAid]

Marineenginedepot.com says GM 12609192

[twinturbostroker]

Update, pull and cleaned injectors, two/three were definitely questionable, although I cannot say definitively whether they were actually clogged. This procedure albeit tedious, is something that I will say is going to be a required maintenance item for anyone running ethanol based fuel.



Pulled and replaced the new distributor cap with brass terminal ends for the AC Delhi equivalent with aluminum terminals.

Old cap and rotor still in excellent condition.

Just awaiting the replacement HPFP and a throttle body gasket and I’ll be able to test and update.

[twinturbostroker]

Still having problems.

Was able to get it to start and running after playing with the throttle a bit, (full throttle, then back off slightly to 3/4 throttle) however immediately after shutting it down, it will not restart. It just stumbles, sputters, and pops through the throttle body (trying to fire) almost like the timing is off.

I’m at a loss with this thing, initial symptoms seemed to point to the HPFP pump.

This startup issue is a new gremlin.

Here is a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phRdChWw4t4


New Items listed below:

Fuel
Fuel filter
HPFP
LPFP
Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap
Rotor
Plug Wires
Injector cleaned and serviced.