Tige touch dealer settings

[Jetdriver]

Angle finder app to determine how much deployment angle you have vs stowed angle. Save those.

Unbolt upper actuator mount and unplug actuator inside boat. While holding the loose actuator and mount tape off a section where the actuator could remount to clear what you need. With the angles you took earlier adjust it on the hull until it gives you close to what you had and clears the FAE. Mark 3 holes and go to work. Should fix ya right up. These boats dont need the full travel up to 8. However the more deployed angle you will get would be worth watching until you can see how the boat trims out at speed.

I think you will be solid man either way you work it. I would just remount the actuator.

While I know this solution would work I just don’t see my boy going for it. He’s in the school of thought that the pipe designed for his boat should fit and isn’t crazy about drilling more holes into the boat. The plate mount alteration however I may be able to convince him it’s the easiest solution.
I understand that you most likely are gonna have to make some changes for a good, clean install, it is the nature of this product, not for everyone obviously but it has been my experience 4 out of 4 times. I still wouldn’t want to own a surf boat without one.

[Jetdriver]

Instead of drilling a hole in the tab use the existing hole and add another onto the bracket that holds the actuator.(see pic)
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I’m not quite sure what you mean my man. His bracket is a different style than the one you have pictured.
Do you mean basically piggyback another bracket onto the existing one with just a bolt? If so I’d be afraid of it having play in it and eventually damaging the plate and mount. I think either a new hole drilled or welding a 1/8” plate to each side of the mount then drilling a hole in the new plating just slightly higher than original may be the ticket.

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Keep the ideas coming boys, I appreciate the thoughts!

[KoolAid]

Moving the actuator mounting to the transom may be the best bet. Where exactly is it hitting the FAE? Could you mallet a dent into the FAE so the plate wouldn't bind? Seems to me like the easiest route and its not like a dent in the FAE is going to hurt its performance.

[freeheel4life]

Jetdriver- Since your buddy is anti holes in the glass, but is pro Taps 8 needed, it seems you are stuck modding the plate. One thought is that instead of modifying bracket at plate and drilling new holes would be to get some small thin cut off wheels and carefully grind welds at front and back of tab. Extend actuator to 8. Then hold plate to get a visual of exactly how much gap is needed to clear the pipe. Then weld in a shim that thickness and you would be done. Still looking mostly factory and no extra hole.
Just another idea....
Also, in regards to you question about the cables to underwater gear. I cant give you a "great" answer, but will try and explain it as I understand it. Boats stored in the water are susceptible to electrolysis over time. These ground paths are intended to alleviate that. Mercury had the Mercathode system. If you look at volvo I/O they run the same cable concept to their trim rams and transom assemblies.

http://www.houseboatmagazine.com/201...-boat-from-the

Heres an article about. Full disclaimer, didnt read it.

Funny enough though, we had a boat that was having issues in a marina last year. Cant remember how I noticed but when standing on wet platfom and holding my meter probes in my fingertips I was getting voltage readings.
Stepoend onto dry dock and voltage was gone. Dipped foot in water off of dock and got consistent voltage readings. Only conclusion I have is a boat nearby was throwing off some stray voltage.

[KoolAid]

Funny enough though, we had a boat that was having issues in a marina last year. Cant remember how I noticed but when standing on wet platfom and holding my meter probes in my fingertips I was getting voltage readings.
Stepoend onto dry dock and voltage was gone. Dipped foot in water off of dock and got consistent voltage readings. Only conclusion I have is a boat nearby was throwing off some stray voltage.

From what I understood is that is was typically stray AC voltage from shore chargers and other AC powered items on the dock. Larger boats with dual systems could do the same thing if they shared grounds with the DC side somewhere in the system.

[UNSTUCK]

How close is it to clearing the FAE? A 1/4" or more? Why not either use a spacer at the exhaust outlet to push the FAE out a bit or simply send the FAE back? Was this FAE made to your measurements? If so, I guess it's on you to make work. If they said, "buy this one, it fits" its on them.

[freeheel4life]

From what I understood is that is was typically stray AC voltage from shore chargers and other AC powered items on the dock. Larger boats with dual systems could do the same thing if they shared grounds with the DC side somewhere in the system.

Thats the funny part. This marina has no shore power hookups, and only a handful of cruisers with AC systems, none moored near boat in question.
I guess my question would be, is the rudder and strut really the only piece of underwater gear the needs attention?? There need to be dissimilar metals for it to occur right?? Woukd stainless mounting hardware in a tracking fin be susceptible??

Sorry for thread hijack. My brain is just turning in circles now

[TigeFamily]

My thought was that FAE would likely modify it so it will fit (seems like it just needs a little extension....even adding an extra flange or 2 between FAE and transom and then using longer screws and using 5200 to keep it all together and strong).....have you talked to them? Larry is pretty good with customer service, at least worth calling them I would think

[bsreid]

I’m not quite sure what you mean my man. His bracket is a different style than the one you have pictured.
Do you mean basically piggyback another bracket onto the existing one with just a bolt? If so I’d be afraid of it having play in it and eventually damaging the plate and mount. I think either a new hole drilled or welding a 1/8” plate to each side of the mount then drilling a hole in the new plating just slightly higher than original may be the ticket.

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Keep the ideas coming boys, I appreciate the thoughts!

Oh I didn’t realize the bracket was welded on. I was thinking just unbolt it and swap them out,

[KoolAid]

Thats the funny part. This marina has no shore power hookups, and only a handful of cruisers with AC systems, none moored near boat in question.
I guess my question would be, is the rudder and strut really the only piece of underwater gear the needs attention?? There need to be dissimilar metals for it to occur right?? Woukd stainless mounting hardware in a tracking fin be susceptible??

Sorry for thread hijack. My brain is just turning in circles now

It's mainly dissimilar metals which is going to be pretty much everything underwater. The screws/bolts will be 316 stainless then the plates most likely are 308 with electropolish. Then the swim platform brackets are aluminum with 316 stainless hardware mounted to them. I would suggest anodes on each plate with wires going from each plate and both swim platforms. They can jump from one to the next, not 5 different wires going to one post lol! You will need to have a wire from the rudder box to the rudder arm, since there is a plastic bushing separating the two metals and the shaft is stainless. Then those wires would go to an anode.

Tell me this, is the brass underwater gear greenish? If so the culprit is the boat you are working on and not the other boats/dock.

[KoolAid]

My thought was that FAE would likely modify it so it will fit (seems like it just needs a little extension....even adding an extra flange or 2 between FAE and transom and then using longer screws and using 5200 to keep it all together and strong).....have you talked to them? Larry is pretty good with customer service, at least worth calling them I would think

That sounds like a really good idea. Put a spacer on the bracket as well.

[freeheel4life]

It's mainly dissimilar metals which is going to be pretty much everything underwater. The screws/bolts will be 316 stainless then the plates most likely are 308 with electropolish. Then the swim platform brackets are aluminum with 316 stainless hardware mounted to them. I would suggest anodes on each plate with wires going from each plate and both swim platforms. They can jump from one to the next, not 5 different wires going to one post lol! You will need to have a wire from the rudder box to the rudder arm, since there is a plastic bushing separating the two metals and the shaft is stainless. Then those wires would go to an anode.

Tell me this, is the brass underwater gear greenish? If so the culprit is the boat you are working on and not the other boats/dock.

Nah, the boat in question is a Regal 2400 Fasdeck. Ive been keeping an eye on his anodes that Volvo has on outdrive because I was worried about it after dealing with his boat. So far so good. Obviously voltage that was measured is DC voltage. It is interesting you mention anodes for surf/trim tab plates as well. Regal decided to mount big whopping anodes directly to both stainless trim tabs on their new "Surf" models. They are at least 4 inch diameter and big ol domes.

[Jetdriver]

Unstuck- it’s about a 1/4” off. It’s an FAE that is advertised to fit a 2015 RZ2. We’d rather not send it back and deal with the extra down time if we can get it fixed easily without actually modifying the boat, ie holes in the glass.

Tigefamily- the plate hits the bottom of the horizontal part of the pipe not the downpipe so spacers to the flange wouldn’t solve the issue. We have talked to Larry, that’s always the first call Inmake with these issues, after all it’s his product. He’s gonna fab up a little bracket to space it out. We’ll see what it looks like when it gets here. You’re right about their customer service. He’s a good dude no doubt.

Koolaid and Freeheel- thanks, I was thinking they were bonding straps of sorts for just that. It is indeed attached to the swim platform brackets, rudder, etc.. I was just surprised to see two ends not attached to anything.

[Bakes5]

Just dremel the taps plate till it fits. It will be a seriously small arc that won't matter a bit. If your worried about messing up the wake or anything, it's not like there isn't a piece of tubing right behind it.

Mark center line
Get a round lid from a thing of salsa or something
Trace a small arc
Dremel to trace line
Check fit
If needed add another trace line
Repeat until you have clearance
Done.

[Jetdriver]

^also a good solution. We’ll see what Larry’s spacer solution looks like then go from there.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!