Tige touch dealer settings

[Jetdriver]

Hey guys and gals! Anyone know if the TAPS settings can be manipulated in the dealer settings? After installing an FAE on a 2015 RZ2 and testing the TAPS plate travel we’re seeing it hitting the pipe at TAPS 8. The pipe cannot be adjusted vertically from where it’s at. It’s a manufacturing issue, just ended up being a touch off. We never even use the 8 setting and I am wondering if we can set the computer to limit it to 7. It’d be an easy fix to our issue.
Thanks in advance!

[talltigeguy]

Or a small spacer on the TAPS plate to not allow it to retract quite so far. it might also be a little benefit when cruising to put the TAPS plate down farther.

[freeheel4life]

Believe that plate side mount in 15 was a stainless piece attached to plate to shimming it might prove difficult at the plate. As far as I know there is no way to limit taps to 7. How hard does it hit?? Could you shave a sliver off of the trailing edge of the taps plate or even just oval it with a carbide bit so it clears??

[chpthril]

is there enough meat to re-drill the actuator to plate hole? one bolt width could = 1/4" difference where the plate hits the FAE.

[Jetdriver]

All great ideas guys. A call up to WWS in Denver(our Tige dealer) revealed that there is no way to change the setting in the computer but that woulda been awesome! Oh well.

TallTigeguy-we discussed a spacer of sorts, just trying to work out the best way to do it. Thx!

Freeheel- the plate clears at 7 by a 1/4” or so than hits at 8, you hear the pump trying to work against it, the TAPS setting flashes to 7, the pump stops than it indicates 8 with the plate pressed against it. You can tell by the sound the TAPS pump diesn5 like it. I’m guessing it’s prettty damn close though man. I don’t think my buddy would want to shave his plate. If it was mine I’d definitely consider that. I hadn’t thought of that as an option. Thx

Chpthril-I don’t think there’s enough meat on the stock connector to drill up but I had considered having a bit of stainless steel welded onto both the vertical portions of the ram mounting point to “build it up” a tad then re drill a new hole for the ram bolt to mount to. I think there’s room width wise for an 1/8” piece to be welded on the inside and if not certainly outside then use some washers or bushings to clean up the play. It’d be pretty easy and is most likely what’ll end up happening.

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[Jetdriver]

I just had an idea, what if we re-drilled the ram connector hole further back on the mount? (towards the boat, no room up but there is room back) that may change the angle enough to make it clear... what do you guys think?
Worse case, I try it and if no go I then end up welding a plate over it to space it up a bit anyway right?

[UNSTUCK]

Changing the location of the actuator isn’t going to change the radius of the tab. So unless you are just trying to limit the upward travel it’s still going to hit. I would think not having the ability to raise the tab fully would be much more detrimental to the operation of the system than just clearancing the tab to miss the exhaust. Lots easier too.

[Jetdriver]

Think about it this way. Changing the point the ram attaches to by elevating it with a spacer changes the angle of travel not the range. In essence drilling a new attachment bolt hole further in on the plate would accomplish the same thing.

[trevor]

My 09 allows for taps calibration... Could you calibrate it so 8 is slightly lower?

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[freeheel4life]

Jetdriver-just fyi that actuator is purely an electric motor turning little gears inside of the actuator. No taps pump like on the Bennett actuators. The noise though is the motor encountering mechanical resistance from the pipe. Its mostly lilkely causing amp load to go up as well when it hits and tries to keep retracting.
Another idea would be to remove the boat side plastic triangle mount. Fill holes, then move the plastic piece down a bit. This should accomplish what you are after as well and you would probably only see the pre-existing top hole. Lower two would remain covered by plastic piece...I think.

[Jetdriver]

Jetdriver-just fyi that actuator is purely an electric motor turning little gears inside of the actuator. No taps pump like on the Bennett actuators. The noise though is the motor encountering mechanical resistance from the pipe. Its mostly lilkely causing amp load to go up as well when it hits and tries to keep retracting.
Another idea would be to remove the boat side plastic triangle mount. Fill holes, then move the plastic piece down a bit. This should accomplish what you are after as well and you would probably only see the pre-existing top hole. Lower two would remain covered by plastic piece...I think.

That’s good to know! I was wondering where they stashed the TAPS pump! Thx man.
Can you tell me what all these metal wires are that are attached to various components, ie.. rudder, block, grounding blocks etc.. I figured they were there to create a more solid ground but I see several that are not attached to anything, one of which is by the batteries. Any idea if it should be grounded to the batteries?

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[Germaine Marine]

Angle finder app to determine how much deployment angle you have vs stowed angle. Save those.

Unbolt upper actuator mount and unplug actuator inside boat. While holding the loose actuator and mount tape off a section where the actuator could remount to clear what you need. With the angles you took earlier adjust it on the hull until it gives you close to what you had and clears the FAE. Mark 3 holes and go to work. Should fix ya right up. These boats dont need the full travel up to 8. However the more deployed angle you will get would be worth watching until you can see how the boat trims out at speed.

I think you will be solid man either way you work it. I would just remount the actuator.

[Germaine Marine]

Drilling a hole like others said closer to the boat on that lower actuator mount will also accomplish what you need. The actuator will then have less stowed angle and more deployed angle. I would just worry about the lower actuator mount being rigid enough after you punched more material out of it.

[dakota4ce]

Drilling a hole like others said closer to the boat on that lower actuator mount will also accomplish what you need. The actuator will then have less stowed angle and more deployed angle. I would just worry about the lower actuator mount being rigid enough after you punched more material out of it.

IIRC on my MB I barely had any “above parallel” to the hull bottom tab travel—just a couple degrees. Seemed like enough?


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[bsreid]

Instead of drilling a hole in the tab use the existing hole and add another onto the bracket that holds the actuator.(see pic)
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