Considering FAE on 2017 RZX2

[BrewKaiser]

Waiting for the quote on the 2018 OEM mandrel drawn thru hull FAE and install for my 2017 RZX2 (440 Raptor). Before pulling the trigger I thought I would check to see if anyone else has installed a FAE on their boat and if the difference in noise reduction is significant? I understand the safety benefit of reduced CO, but we generally are engine off anytime there's someone on the platform or getting gear on in the water at the rear. FAE and my Tige Dealer confirmed about 3.5 hours for install so I'm guessing I'll be looking at $1000 to add the FAE.

Also, was thinking I would remove the baffle right away as well. Any thoughts on this.

For anyone else with a 2017 model your only other option is the 2016 welded (polished or non) with brackets (for bolt on) or the thru hull equivalent. These you can buy direct from FAE for around $540-$600. Since the mandrel drawn is considered OEM you can only get thru an authorized Tige dealer.

[chpthril]

but we generally are engine off anytime there's someone on the platform or getting gear on in the water at the rear

Good practice, but just beware that the FAE is completely ineffective at idle. Fumes bubble right up around the transom just as they do without an FAE.

yes, the noise reduction is worth it.

In terms of looks, I dont care as its in the water. Air flow, if there is any difference between the mandrel and the welded, id bet its barely measurable, as in with instruments.

The OEM one must require disassembling the exhaust inside or the 3.5 is to compensate for needing 2 people for some of the job.

[BrewKaiser]

Good practice, but just beware that the FAE is completely ineffective at idle. Fumes bubble right up around the transom just as they do without an FAE.

Yes understood and assumed. We also don't surf with people sitting on the locker covers either for safety reasons.

Agreed on the aesthetics. I just figured our 2017 is so close to the 2018 model why not have it look the same. I like the thru hull better as it does not require additional brackets to the trim plate actuator (based on the pictures sent to me by FAE that where they go).

What about removing the baffle?

Thanks for your response @chpthril

BTW, FAE were super helpful and responsive to my requests.

[dkyg]

I just installed one on my 2016 R22 yesterday. The installation was pretty easy. The 4 screws holding the flapper on the exhaust match the 4 holes on the FAE. The only issue was getting the nut off one of the through bolts in the Taps plate for the support bracket. It's definitely a 2 person job. The whole project can be done in an hour.

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As far as noise reduction, the verdict is still out. I only had time for a quick run around the cove after we put the boat back in the water. It seemed quieter but I was by myself and not trying to talk to anyone else in the boat so it was hard to tell.

For reference I recorded a video with my phone a month ago when I ordered it and then one yesterday after I installed it. It definitely took some of the low end rumble out of the engine noise.

Before:
https://youtu.be/GXK5StGlGpQ

After:
https://youtu.be/dnCSBpAUo_g

[JohnnieMo]

As said before, FAE only really helps the surfer behind the boat. Anyone sitting on the boat should not be affected while the boat is moving. When the boat is still, the exhaust will get you. However this raises another issue..... is it good for your engine to run it hard for surfing for half an hour and then turn it off? I don't like doing this because the cooling system needs a couple minutes to properly cool off the engine after heavy loading.

I found that when I used to list my boat, the exhaust fumes were not a problem. When I started evenly weighting the boat, the CO was noticeable to the surfer. I think this was partly because the exhaust was no longer directed away from the surfer, but also because I was burning more gas.

I ordered a new FAE for my Z1 this winter after getting headaches a lot of last season.

[UNSTUCK]

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Not to nitpick, but that pipe looks anywhere, but perpendicular to the swim deck. Is it just the picture or did they get the angles all wrong?

[dakota4ce]

As said before, FAE only really helps the surfer behind the boat. Anyone sitting on the boat should not be affected while the boat is moving. When the boat is still, the exhaust will get you. However this raises another issue..... is it good for your engine to run it hard for surfing for half an hour and then turn it off? I don't like doing this because the cooling system needs a couple minutes to properly cool off the engine after heavy loading.

I found that when I used to list my boat, the exhaust fumes were not a problem. When I started evenly weighting the boat, the CO was noticeable to the surfer. I think this was partly because the exhaust was no longer directed away from the surfer, but also because I was burning more gas.

I ordered a new FAE for my Z1 this winter after getting headaches a lot of last season.

I would say it’s not that simple. FAE definitely helps rear seat passengers. In addition to the surfer. I have been in boats and sat in the backseat—and been affected by CO. While underway at various speeds.

It’s the so called “station wagon” effect.


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[JohnnieMo]

I would say it’s not that simple. FAE definitely helps rear seat passengers. In addition to the surfer. I have been in boats and sat in the backseat—and been affected by CO. While underway at various speeds.

It’s the so called “station wagon” effect.

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Fair point. I've found that with the Vx addition I don't have that issue.

[BrewKaiser]

@dkyg thanks for the pic and the video links. Hard to tell the difference, as you say.

@unstuck I agree the pic makes it look a bit off. My dealer confirmed that they will have to drill 4 new holes to position the FAE correctly and that it is a 2 person job.

I've not had the luxury of chilling in the rear seats as I'm always either captain or surfer/skier. I was most concerned about noise reduction as I feel like I'm always yelling at people in the rear when towing someone. Wasn't even thinking how much of a benefit in CO reduction to the surfer the FAE is. This is now a key selling point as most of the time I'm towing kids.

[Surf406]

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[robricketts]

This is from my 16 rz2. I had an issue with the fae coming lose after initial instal.

Second time I used studs that allowed me to add two more attachment points in addition to the screws.

Looks a bit less tidy but the fae never moved again and in my opinion it made the boat quieter and made surfing for my family waaaaay better. No more fumes.

It was mentioned that the fae in OPs photo looked a bit off from an alignment perspective... mine was the same slightly off to port side with a slight angle.

No one sees it except when it’s on the loft or the trailer.


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[Jetdriver]

Just put one on a 2015 RZ2 today. The install is super simple and it’s rock solid. I’ve put one on a 20V and two on 22VEs (mine and a friends)

To answer your questions, yes it will drastically reduce exhaust noise and the exhaust smell while surfing. As mentioned it does nothing while at idle because the exhaust just rises out of the water around the swim platform. I personally think it’s one of the best upgrades you can do to your boat. That being said I wish that FAE was a little more accurate in their manufacturing process.

Couple things-
I bought a one piece Y shaped FAE for mine and while it looks killer, they made it too narrow. My 22VE has dual exhaust ports and I gave them very precise measurements. It’s almost a half inch too narrow, they told me to bend it out some (no easy task and point is you shouldn’t have to. How about you build it to the required specs, the measurements that were provided?!)
Luckily they attach with rubber boots so there is quite a bit of flex in them and I got it to work but for what they cost you shouldn’t have to deal with that.

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They’re also notorious for sending you brackets that require additional machining to work and screws that are more narrow than the ones they’re meant to replace. They’re slightly longer but they won’t bite into the hole like they need to being narrower. They need to be the same thickness and slightly longer to provide a good hold on the fiberglass. I have a feeling that this may be a reason that some people are experiencing failures with them.

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The single pipe we did today came out nice but with after running the TAPS plate up and down to verify full unempeded travel, the TAPS plate hits the bottom of the pipe at 8. There is no way to adjust it from hitting there so the pipe may be getting re made. Talked to Larry from FAE after the install and waiting on his reply to video emailed about the issue. They’re very helpful but the problems I’ve seen with they’re kits are all manufacturing and parts related.

If you’ve got a dual exhaust boat go with the cheapest T kit, it’s the most adjustable.
On the singles your suck with it mounting the one way it’s supposed to( you shouldn’t have to turn it cockeyed to get it to work. It’s supposed to go on straight up and down so it cause minimum drag. Hopefully they get better at measuring and getting the angles correct.
Take good measurement with the taps plate all the way up so you have the best shot.
Despite these issues it’s still a great product. You will likely have a couple hurdles during install so be prepared for that going into it. Do yourself a favor and at least get stainless screws that are as thick as the ones you removed and slightly longer. Oh, and DEFINITELY GET THE FLAPPERS, it can literally save your engine. You’ll thank me later.

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[Jetdriver]

[QUOTE=dkyg;790488]

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Id have to agree with Unstuck. Does yours have the trim tab mount?
If so try to loosen the screws around the pipe enough to twist the pipe slightly counter clockwise until the downpipe is straight. (There is a bit of wiggle room because of the notches they put in the pipe flange) then tighten it back up.

[dkyg]

[QUOTE=Jetdriver;790517]

[ATTACH]47889[/ATTACH]





Id have to agree with Unstuck. Does yours have the trim tab mount?
If so try to loosen the screws around the pipe enough to twist the pipe slightly counter clockwise until the downpipe is straight. (There is a bit of wiggle room because of the notches they put in the pipe flange) then tighten it back up.

Yes, mine has the trim tab mount and I did have to drill a hole and cut off the excess on the brace FAE provided. The hardware they provided was mostly the wrong size too. Had to reuse some of the screws from the flapper and pick up a new stainless bolt to fit the brace.

The pipe may be crooked. I barely had time to look at it. Had the boat out of the water for less than 2 hours and then had to dash back to the marina to put it back in the slip after the install. I'm not sure how installing it any differently would straiten it up. The holes on the flange line up exactly with the existing holes for the stock flapper. There is zero play in the fit. If the Tige drilled flapper holes are indexed slightly clockwise or counter clockwise from 90 degrees, I can see how the pipe would be crooked. Either way, I'll probably never know. This boat will spend 99% of it's time in the water or on a boat lift at the marina. I guess I could swim around the lift and take some measurements but do I really care????????

[dakota4ce]

I work in the surgical sales arena and there is a saying we use/hear from time to time:

Sometimes the enemy of “good” is “better.”
Or another variation: better, better, better, OOPS!

I say you leave it. If it’s solid and isn’t leaking. You’d be inviting variables to the party to redrill and adjust?


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