Taps3 overcurrent...EUREKA

[freeheel4life]

Finally had an AHA moment for you guys having taps 3 overcurrent problems.
https://youtu.be/Gf7lZ4LAqaM
So I'm barely pushing up in video . Plate cams over and binds so that actuator piston can't move. Obvious fox is to change geometry at swim deck and move mount more towards transom. Waiting on an answer from Tige before I start drilling as I'm not going to start voiding warranties without permission.
Just a heads up for you guys. Have some other vids o posted of it as well on YouTube.
Definitely think displaced water on tab is more than enough force to cam plate over into locked position.
Obviously other boats may have it for different issues, but for those that have had dealer throw actuators and PDMs at this problem I'd look at this.

[IDBoating]

Good catch!

Another option might be an actuator with different active length, or simply shimming one of the two attachment points just enough to push the geometry back to the point that it cannot bind like that. Might be better than drilling new holes and patching old ones.

[freeheel4life]

Justin got back to me this morning. They are sending out some plastic blocks that address the issue. Looks like they bolt over hinge and act as a bump stop for plate so that it can't cam up.

[IDBoating]

Hmm... I hope the plates act as shims per my suggestion. If those are electric actuators, they will NOT like having their travel stopped artificially. We have done extensive research with actuators here. Actuators are designed to run to the end of their travel and then freewheel with no ill effects IF THEY ARE ALLOWED TO REACH END OF TRAVEL. But if you mechanically stop them short, they will overcurrent and blow your protective device (fuse, circuit breaker) or the driving electronics if it doesn't self-limit the current.

Even if there are overcurrent devices in the circuit, I would not design the system to rely upon them. Those are your last-ditch, prevent-the-wiring-from-catching-on-fire insurance policies. The proper solution is to use actuators the way they're meant to be used, with the freedom to run from end to end.

This behavior is true for both Lenco and Bennett Bolt actuators. We've analyzed both, have lots of data and experience with both. We have a test fixture for actuators, it's less than 10 feet away from me as I type this.

[freeheel4life]

It would appear that it will allow actuator to retract fully and just keep water from pushing up against plate and allowing it to flip over.
These are being run through Murphy PDM along with I believe blower and some other accessory functions at stern of boat. Illuminates an orange overcurrent light at PDM diagnostic screen. Justin sent me a couple pics of them but don't want to take time to upload them right now. Will probably past up some pics when they get installed next week. Ideally it would be nice if actuators mounted at transom and pushed down at a better angle (see Moomba and Supra tabs). Our 17 R21 that is shop boat had em mounted at transom and pushing down and out towards outside corners of the boat. Been hesitant to post pics as I'm sure this was a R&D boat that we picked up from Tige and don't want to be that guy that lets the cat out of the bag on anything. Been waiting to see some 18s first.

[outkastmunkey]

If you need a picture of the blocks I can send you some when I get home. My TAPS3 has been working perfect since those have been added. But they did replace pretty much the whole system. Also need to turn on battery them motor then screen they say it messes it up the other way.

[IDBoating]

These are being run through Murphy PDM along with I believe blower and some other accessory functions at stern of boat. Illuminates an orange overcurrent light at PDM diagnostic screen.

Yes, Murphy PDM's have overcurrent sensing and protection. Would still be better to design the mechanics such that nothing goes into overcurrent in the first place. By definition, to detect overcurrent means the system had to be overcurrent for some nonzero amount of time which is stressful on motor windings, drive transistors, etc. And it appears the solution is obvious from a mechanical perspective. "Just do it right" and you never have to worry about it again.

[freeheel4life]

Damn munkey,
Missed your post on the stoppers being the fix on your other post about taps3 not working. Last I had checked in you had done actuators and PDM with no results and missed everything after that. Glad there is at least a fix so I can give customer an answer. Sucks that this has plauged him all summer though, especially on a z3

[outkastmunkey]

Damn munkey,
Missed your post on the stoppers being the fix on your other post about taps3 not working. Last I had checked in you had done actuators and PDM with no results and missed everything after that. Glad there is at least a fix so I can give customer an answer. Sucks that this has plauged him all summer though, especially on a z3

So they replaced everything added the stoppers and then tested and it didn't work. The final fix is that you turn the batteries on start you engine then turn on the screen. There is too much data trying to go through a 2 wire harness so this method has kept it from geeking out and I have had no problems since.

[freeheel4life]

Thanks for the info. Glad you have your boat to cool off during the heat wave

[IDBoating]

There is too much data trying to go through a 2 wire harness so this method has kept it from geeking out and I have had no problems since.

Who said that about there being "too much data" on the CAN network? Based on data capture from real-world production boats I find that very difficult to believe.

[outkastmunkey]

That came from the mechanic at the dealer and he said it came from Tige directly. They are saying a firmware update will be coming out sometime to fix this. All I know is starting the motor before turning on my screen has fixed all TAPS3 issues I was having and the boat is going strong I have put 60 hours on it since January if you can even count that month.

[IDBoating]

Then it's the screen (and the hardware behind it) that is having the problem, not that the "network is too busy". Indeed, the engine's ECU is the biggest chatterbox on the wire and it comes up as soon as the key goes to "ON" (even before "START"). Sounds like the screen+hardware can't handle something associated with ECU startup, so they want you to only turn them on after the ECU has stabilized and is broadcasting its usual high volume of traffic.

I've never heard of anyone suggesting this before. It's a Murphy problem.