Originally posted by chpthril
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Liquid Lumens vs Shadow Caster Underwater LEDs
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Originally posted by UNSTUCK View PostIf you don't have D.C. amps on your meter just keep putting in a smaller fuse till it blows. That will give you a pretty good idea of amp draw.
These look great. So if I understand it right the three different models have the same out put but at a different angle. That means if you went with the cheaper versions you would need to mount them a bit closer together so there was no gap in the middle, then you would expect to not have it so wide to the outside. Is this right?
Maybe you need to mount up the cheaper versions right next to the ones you have on the 2x4 so we can now compare them to eachother.
Nice work.
Pipeline
Beam Angle: 62 degrees
Lumens: 10,000 (cool white LED)
Candela: 14,247 (this is a measure of light intensity)
Maverick
Beam Angle: 73 degrees
Lumens: 10,000 (cool white LED)
Candela: 10,036 (this is a measure of light intensity)
Surfrider
Beam Angle: 84 degrees
Lumens: 10,000 (cool white LED)
Candela: 7,852 (this is a measure of light intensity)
As you can see, the beam intensity almost doubles from Surfrider to Pipeline with Maverick right in the middle. The beam angle being wider on Surfrider, actually means you'd want them even further apart since there will be more overlap in the middle. We recommend mounting all lights as far apart as possible on the transom. The most notable difference if you were comparing Pipeline, Maverick and Surfrider is that the Maverick and Surfrider beams wouldn't reach as far back behind the boat as the Pipeline's. Hope that clarifies it a little. Next chance I get, we will take some photographs to try to illustrate this in a side by side of our 3 models.
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If the boost box requires cabling larger then 10ga, something like this is best. 1) no extra slice needed, just strip the wire, insert and crank down set screw. These are ABYC/NMMA compliant. There is a tab between the cable and set screw that applied the clamping. More contact surface area and no set screw chewing right into the strands like other designs.
Now, the reason I like this for larger gauge cable is because once you get to a certain point, you cant crimp a large terminal on with a typical pair of crimp pliers. a yellow 10/12 is about it. 8ga is border line for a typical crimp tool to get a proper bite on. Also,It gets hard to find those larger ga cable spade terminals that will be narrow enough to fit those terminations. So unless extra are included, someone get in a bind if they needed to redo a crimp.
If the unit does only draw 10A @ 12DC, then 12ga should be more then sufficient for most runs.Attached FilesMikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Thanks Elevated! I (like most people on here) have a bad case of shiny object syndrome. When I see an awesome product like this I pretty much NEED it I currently have a set of blue Ocean LED T6 I think is the model, on my transom. While they're pretty sweet they're no where near the ballpark of a Shadow Caster or Liquid Lumens light. As soon as I get my boat back together and on the water I'll hopefully be able to curb the outflow of cash from my wallet! I don't mind spending extra money to get the good stuff as I've definitely learned that you get what you pay for. For those that are curious here's a pic of the pricing off Liquid Lumens web page.
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RoboSanLucas-First off, this is a kick a$$ product you guys have going! In my opinion definitely stick with shipping the lights with the spade connector seperate. Like you stated most of us DIYers are going to want a cleaner install and will just end up cutting/extending the wire anyhow. Chpthrils idea of amp style connector block would be great too!
I'm curious, are your advertised prices for a set or for individual lights? I'm assuming individual but I didn't see that on your web page(I may have overlooked it) I see your converter powers a set of like colored LEDs. Any chance you have a side by side picture of the three different lights to compare the beam projection between them? I'm assuming the lights pictured on your web page are the pipelines. When are the RGBs coming out?!
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Originally posted by Jetdriver View PostRoboSanLucas-First off, this is a kick a$$ product you guys have going! In my opinion definitely stick with shipping the lights with the spade connector seperate. Like you stated most of us DIYers are going to want a cleaner install and will just end up cutting/extending the wire anyhow. Chpthrils idea of amp style connector block would be great too!
I'm curious, are your advertised prices for a set or for individual lights? I'm assuming individual but I didn't see that on your web page(I may have overlooked it) I see your converter powers a set of like colored LEDs. Any chance you have a side by side picture of the three different lights to compare the beam projection between them? I'm assuming the lights pictured on your web page are the pipelines. When are the RGBs coming out?!
We get asked about RGB's a lot. We've toyed with the idea a little, but as of now no RGB product release is imminent. I've talked a little bit about it on another thread, but there are some performance constraints with RGB's that have kept us away from them for now. But we're always in the process of re-evaluating new opportunities and products to add to our lineup, so we haven't ruled it out entirely. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news... for now.
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Originally posted by williamG View Post
Welcome to the forum. Tell us more about your boat that this light is on. Whats the clarity of the water you boat in. What do you recommend this light over others based on your experience?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by williamG View Post
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I think willy is an agent of imarineled. His buddy Jeremy was trolling wake world at the same time this AM.
Although that concept eliminates the need to thread in and out the light, you still run into possible interference with wake plates and other wake hardware. Still puts the light behind an out drive, wake plate or similar, creating shadow. Brass is still not the best for underwater fixtures.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Yea I was thinking the same thing. Trying to push the budget lights! That single plug brass light is junk.
The way the taps plate hinge is mounted right up to the drain hole it would present a challenge to mount for sure. I agree you’d get some blockage from the taps ram with this style and it may not even clear it but it’s a step in the right direction for budget minded plug mount lights. At least you’re not twisting the wires each time to remove/install.
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Im willing to bet the warranty department is whats driving the direction change garboard emplacement fixture. Failed harnesses is real.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostIm willing to bet the warranty department is whats driving the direction change garboard emplacement fixture. Failed harnesses is real.
Good underwater LEDs aren't cheap, and cheap underwater LEDs aren't good.
Freaking trolls trying to push garbage.
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